The Delicious Vinyl E-Build

[vinylicious]

Well, its time to jump into the pool:rockin:

I am looking to make the jump from extract to all-grain. At the same time, I want to make the jump from using propane in the driveway to indoor electric brewing in the basement. This summer has been brutally hot, and I don't need to mention the "unpleasant” winters in Buffalo, NY.

So here is my proposed system:

Single Tier e-HERMS with 3 Keggles and 2 pumps
Bottom drain HLT with copper HERMS Coil
Bottom Drain MLT with Jaybird false bottom
BK (existing keggle used for extract batches) with dip tube

Basically, I want to build a panel similar to Bolts build (found here), with a few small modifications. I would like to add an Emergency Stop to the panel and I also plan on using 2-way and 3-way switches with separate LED indicator lights.

Here is my proposed layout for the control panel:

The brewery will be setup in the basement workshop. There is no 220 service now, but the main panel for the house is located on the opposite wall of where the brewery will go and has an old 40a breaker that is no longer in use. So the plan is to replace the old 40a breaker with a 30a GFCI breaker right in the panel and wire up a 220 outlet on the other side of the room. I have started to acquire some of the parts and will update with as many photos as possible. I always appreciate all the documentation on this board.

What I need is help with the electrical plan. How can I add an Emergency Stop into this diagram?

 

[RTL]

Well, its time to jump into the pool:rockin:

I am looking to make the jump from extract to all-grain. At the same time, I want to make the jump from using propane in the driveway to indoor electric brewing in the basement. This summer has been brutally hot, and I don't need to mention the "unpleasant” winters in Buffalo, NY.

So here is my proposed system:

Single Tier e-HERMS with 3 Keggles and 2 pumps
Bottom drain HLT with copper HERMS Coil
Bottom Drain MLT with Jaybird false bottom
BK (existing keggle used for extract batches) with dip tube

Basically, I want to build a panel similar to Bolts build (found here), with a few small modifications. I would like to add an Emergency Stop to the panel and I also plan on using 2-way and 3-way switches with separate LED indicator lights.

Here is my proposed layout for the control panel:

The brewery will be setup in the basement workshop. There is no 220 service now, but the main panel for the house is located on the opposite wall of where the brewery will go and has an old 40a breaker that is no longer in use. So the plan is to replace the old 40a breaker with a 30a GFCI breaker right in the panel and wire up a 220 outlet on the other side of the room. I have started to acquire some of the parts and will update with as many photos as possible. I always appreciate all the documentation on this board.

What I need is help with the electrical plan. How can I add an Emergency Stop into this diagram?

Personally I would do away with the power switch and make it your e-stop unless you want that switch to have a key like Kal's. But its your panel so dont let my laziness influence you. Otherwise I would put it on the hot leg going into the coil for your main supply relay. If you buy the e-stop that auber sells the blocks usually can only handle 10 amps if I'm remembering that correctly, which means you have to kill power via a relay or contactor of some sort.

 

[P-J]

...
Basically, I want to build a panel similar to Bolts build (found here)
...
What I need is help with the electrical plan. How can I add an Emergency stop

...

E-Stop Switch Model - SW6 from Auber Instruments.

Wired like this in the diagram it will power the controller down and also prevent it from powering up unless reset.

 

[vinylicious]

Thank you, I am always amazed at how quick you guys respond.

 

[P-J]

Just a note: I changed the attached image a little bit to make it a little more like the original diagram.
If you saved it, you might want to save it again.

Oh, And if you want that section in full scale, I'd be glad to send it to you. (PM or E-Mail???)

P-J

 

[vinylicious]

PJ, will this trip the GFCI breaker in the main panel? It looks like it just cuts one of the hot lines going into the interlock, therefore cutting power to the whole unit?

 

[P-J]

PJ, will this trip the GFCI breaker in the main panel? It looks like it just cuts one of the hot lines going into the interlock, therefore cutting power to the whole unit?

It is designed according the overall plan that Bolts set up. It is an E-Stop that drops the power within the controller. It is not set up to trip the GFCI breaker.

Hope this helps.

 

[vinylicious]

I have a question about fuses inside the panel. I will have a 30a GFCI breaker in the main box feeding the 240v main power into the panel. I see on Kal's build here that he uses a 7A inline fuse for all the 120v equipment. But in other threads, people use separate fuses for pumps, PIDs, switches, etc.

Is this one of those "either way will work" scenarios?

 

[P-J]

I have a question about fuses inside the panel. I will have a 30a GFCI breaker in the main box feeding the 240v main power into the panel. I see on Kal's build here that he uses a 7A inline fuse for all the 120v equipment. But in other threads, people use separate fuses for pumps, PIDs, switches, etc.

Is this one of those "either way will work" scenarios?

Short answer? Yes. The 7A for all 120 devices will work just fine.