Talk me off the kegging ledge...

[off5pring9]

So for the 3rd keg in a row, my co2 tank sits at empty. For all 3 now, everything is fine, no leaks for several weeks. Spray all connections with soapy water, no bubbles anywhere. Checking it daily the regulator shows it in the green....however at some point nearing the keg's end but not yet kicked, over the course of 24 hours, the co2 tank completely empties.

Force carbonation and then cranked down to 8 psi for serving. Line balanced with online calculator.

I'm at my wits end with this thing and am considering just scrapping the kegging and using my kegerator as a ferm chamber. Any suggestions on equipment that should be checked/replaced?

 

[ghohn]

It took me submerging all connections (not the reg obviously) in a pot of water to spot a slow leak once. Maybe give that a go?

 

[nateburn]

Remember that as long as there is any CO2 in liquid form in the bottle the needle will always stay in the green. Pressure does not drop until there is only gas left in the bottle. I think your leak is constant and not isolated to the end of the keg. Could be an internal leak in the regulator. You might not pick that up with soapy water.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[DoWBrewer]

I have had similar problems. I turn off my gas most of the time and periodically hit all of the kegs with gas to keep them dispensing beer. I have replaced almost every part of my kegging system with no luck. It is very frustrating...

 

[david_42]

I had a leak in the body of a regulator, but that doesn't sound like your problem. Does it happen regardless of which keg is nearly done? If it's just one keg, the first thing I'd do is replace all of the o-rings.

 

[fantomlord]

what size is your tank?

 

[AnOldUR]

Force carbonation and then cranked down to 8 psi for serving. Line balanced with online calculator.

Not on topic, but what style of beer is this? Serving pressure should be the same as carbing pressure. You want a constant volume of CO2 in suspension. Dropping the pressure to serve is not a good idea. If your lines are balanced it shouldn't be necessary.

Nevermind if your beer has the proper volumes of CO2 at 8psi.

 

[smizak]

Here's how I check if the regulator and connections are holding tight:

Get a gas check valve if you don't have one and install it on the output of the regulator, nothing else. Close the check valve then open the tank valve. Set the regulator pressure to 20 psi or something, slowly bleed off with your check valve if it overshoots. Now close the main tank valve.

That's it. If your regulator and output connection are sound, it should be able to sit there and hold the 20psi indefinitely in the diaphragm. If the needle starts dropping below your set point, you have at least isolated the problem to the regulator or output connection.

PS, I should note that this will also flag your tank connection or regulator input side if the tank pressure needle drops as well.

 

[WildGingerBrewing]

For the first time ever, I have fought leaks all year long. I had poppits that leaked, I had posts that leaked, I had hoses that leaked and I had a gauge on the regulator itself that was leaking. I don't know what you have tried, so I'm just going to tell you what I did. Pressurize the crap out of the kegs (30-40 psi), disconnect all hoses from the keg and spray the crap out of the posts. This can find a bad post or poppit. How many kegs are you running? I run 4. I pressurized them all and disconnected all hoses. By leaving it for 24 hours and then pulling the pressure release tab, you will find out if the leak is in a keg. If the kegs are still holding pressure then you know it is in the hoses or regulator. If the keg is not holding pressure then you have a place to start. Pressurize the keg again and turn it upside down in a bucket of water. If it's leaking you will see bubbles.

When I found the leak in the gauges, I was at a loss. I took the kegerator apart and took the Co2 tank and regulator to my LHBS. With no hoses attached to the regulator we opened the tank and sprayed, listened and felt for leaks around the regulator, with the shut off valves closed of course. You will hear it and you might even feel it. I could run my hand around the bad gauge and feel the air.

Kegging can be a pita when it doesn't work, bu no matter how much money I spent on Co2 this year, I will not go back to bottling regularly. Hope this helps pinpoint your problem.

 

[barnaclebob]

You'll need to isolate the source to either the kegs or the co2 system. Here is what I would suggest first.

Disconnect your tank and regulator. If your co2 system has a ball lock disconnect leave it on. Weigh the system.

Turn up the regulator to 40-50psi so that if there is a leak it will happen faster. Let your system sit untouched for a few days and weigh it again. There should be no change. If there is no change then leave it sit for another few days and try again to make sure. This will tell you if the leak is in the co2 system or the kegs.

If its upstream isolate the disconnect.

To isolate leaks in the kegs you may want to use normal pressures because its possible that high pressures could compress a leaky o-ring and actually stop the leak.

I'm assuming you have the piece of plastic in between the tank and the regulator.

 

[masonsjax]

I've learned a lot from battling leaks with my first kegging setup. The best way to avoid leaks I've found is to use a size smaller tubing than the barbs call for. I use 3/16" beer line and 1/4" hose barbs for everything, both liquid and gas. It's a little tough getting it all assembled initially, but it's tight enough to seal up any worries. Clamps are just extra insurance.

To test, make sure you disconnect all kegs. Set your regulator for something like 30psi, open the tank valve, then close it again. Check it periodically over a couple of days. If the pressure stays put, your leak is from a keg. If it drops, start checking parts on the regulator. I've had a release valve go bad, regulator body that leaked at the seam (don't skimp, get the premium Micromatic regulators, they're the best), bad ball lock connectors, etc. It can be a real hassle. If possible, keep your tank on the outside so it's easy to leave the valve closed most of the time. That way, any small leaks wont totally drain your tank, and hopefully you'll notice drops in pressure and be able to track down their source before wasting too much gas.

 

[bman1056]

Another thing to check-
I've replaced two lids on my kegs because the safety/pop-off was leaking gas.
Do you have new o-rings on everything (posts, popits,lids, etc.?)
hope you figure it out soon.

Blanchard

 

[Gavin C]

Is it possible to immerse the entire assembled setup, ie, tank, regulator and gas lines in water and look for bubbles that way?

Is there a risk of damage to the regulator if it is attached to the tank while immersed?

With scuba gear they are immersed. Granted its a different type of regulator but any leaks immediately become apparent. Just a thought.

Edit: Bad idea

 

[beersk]

. Clamps are just extra insurance.

Agreed. I was going to ask if the OP is using clamps on all gas hoses. I think that's crucial. Also, are you using a regulator washer for the co2 tank? I don't know that that's imperative, but it doesn't hurt.
Also, invest in some keg lube for your lid o-rings.

 

[off5pring9]

Here's how I check if the regulator and connections are holding tight:

Get a gas check valve if you don't have one and install it on the output of the regulator, nothing else. Close the check valve then open the tank valve. Set the regulator pressure to 20 psi or something, slowly bleed off with your check valve if it overshoots. Now close the main tank valve.

That's it. If your regulator and output connection are sound, it should be able to sit there and hold the 20psi indefinitely in the diaphragm. If the needle starts dropping below your set point, you have at least isolated the problem to the regulator or output connection.

PS, I should note that this will also flag your tank connection or regulator input side if the tank pressure needle drops as well.

So doing this, and left it overnight, both the tank pressure and regulator pressure needles dropped. I have a new set of washers coming in the mail today, but does this mean it is only the tank connection/input side or since both needles dropped does it mean it's both?

 

[dude3516]

Is there a risk of damage to the regulator if it is attached to the tank while immersed?

Do not submerge the regulator. Water can enter the diaphragm, or cause rusting on gauge springs that cause them to stick. I found that out after a helpful assistant tossed one into my sanitizing bucket when I was doing a full breakdown and cleaning of my kegerator.

 

[Homercidal]

I took my tank to the refill place when I first got it. They swapped out the washer that came with it to a different one that they recommended.

I had a couple of leaks when I first started. I ended up replacing all of the O-Rings on the posts and throwing away one of the QDs that didn't seem to fit just right.

Finding a leak on a post with the QD on it is a PITA, but it may be necessary. I found my tank seemed to lose CO2 when the QD was touching the back of the fridge. It would get icy cold and cause the O-Ring to leak I guess. I changed and haven't had a problem since. Probably got 5 or more kegs this last tank.

 

[smizak]

So doing this, and left it overnight, both the tank pressure and regulator pressure needles dropped. I have a new set of washers coming in the mail today, but does this mean it is only the tank connection/input side or since both needles dropped does it mean it's both?

If the regulator is good, then it could be either. Try it again but check more frequently and see which one goes first. But at least you know now where the leak is. Or a leak anyway.....

PS Don't forget the gauge connections as well