lunchbox
Well-Known Member
i just clicked your exact links added it to cart, put in my zip and state and typed in the promo code and it gave me the free ship option. What's your zip?
28269
i just clicked your exact links added it to cart, put in my zip and state and typed in the promo code and it gave me the free ship option. What's your zip?
I use 2 silicone O rings on my fermenters, both under the lip of the fixed portion of the lid. After screwing the top down I am able to pressurize the closed conical enough to expand the lid by inflating with air pressure.To the best of my ability and testing, this method you cannot get nearly as tight of a seal as allclene's use of weather stripping. On my conical, the O-ring (13 1/2 ID), is too big and if you try to get a tight seal just pushes the o-ring out. You would need a smaller o-ring I believe to make this work. Looking at the picture he doesn't have it as tightened as far down as I would like. I think he is accomplishing his goal of keeping nasties out, but in testing, its not as air tight.
When I say seal, I'm testing with co2 and checking for leaks. I plan to go back with the weather stripping and a hell of a lot of silicone (I don't think I had enough on there to create the good seal).
I'm still keeping my hopes up of getting the seal that allclene has being able to pressurize his vessel up to 30 psi.
chrisdb said:I use 2 silicone O rings on my fermenters, both under the lip of the fixed portion of the lid. After screwing the top down I am able to pressurize the closed conical enough to expand the lid by inflating with air pressure.
If you are interested I can put up pix and spec the o rings I used.
went with O rings because I wanted to be able to break it down completely for cleaning
Please post those up. ::thumbs up::
I personally remove it about every other time I clean it. The do not even use the ballvalve anymore. Trub gets trapped in the threads and inside the bal on the valve. So it seems the second time you would trub dump it could put dried up trub back into the fermenter.That does not seem safe to me so I just rack above all the trub. But only use the fermenter for a max 4 weeks to keep off-flavors from coming along.
Thats why it is best to use a butterfly valve instead of a ball valve.
I just pbw wash and starsan via CIP. Have not removed that fitting yet.
Are you saying you're starting a nano? If so, do yourself a favor and just build a kick a$$ chamber. And buy the 35gal tanks. Free shipping on the ones with legs from rural king.
I just came across this thread and I'm not going to sift through 71 pages, , but has anyone actually read that on this is only good for liquids up to 1.7 specific gravity? I wouldn't trust it for anything but holding water.
"Tanks are manufactured from medium-density polyethylene with U.V. inhibitors and designed for containment of liquids of up to 1.7specific gravity."
I just came across this thread and I'm not going to sift through 71 pages, , but has anyone actually read that on this is only good for liquids up to 1.7 specific gravity?
"Tanks are manufactured from medium-density polyethylene with U.V. inhibitors and designed for containment of liquids of up to 1.7specific gravity."
That's crazy high!
With that said, I now ask this communities assistance: I have read the 71 pages of this thread and have taken my notes. In fact, this is not the first time I have read the thread. It is simply now my time to begin planning my dedicated brewery and ask your help.
My understanding is that one of the manufactures 15G conical measures, 19" wide and is 28"s tall. This does not take into account a stand or yeast catcher.
I would like to use a refrigerator for fermentation and temperature control. The frig I have is an old GE with the freezer on the top. The frig itself has space 21"s front to back, 24"s side to side and 40"s tall. IE, I cut some of the door off, side shelves and trim where needed.
Brewers, my tape measure says I can do this. Does your experience support my opinion? Should I pull the plug and order what I need? Or, do you have questions I need to yet answer?
Thanks Team.
Sorry on the delay -
Yeah , i systematically dismantled my fridge; removed the freezer floor, coil shroud, moved the fan. Anything that was held with adhesive or screws and could come out, did. I have JUST enough room for my 15G fermenter in there. (which is nice, because im not interested in cooling a lot of dead space, i want to control the temp of my beer) IIRC you can get the drawings from ace roto mold (either from the site or from somewhere earlier in this thread).
They were accurate to mine when it arrived.
Now - in MY opinion, i probably would not have done this with a fridge that wasnt destined for the trash heap. But really because mine was so close to the demensions of what i was trying to do.
The PRO thogh for me, is that i have a dedicated piece of equipment that is temp controlled, measuring temp from a thermowell in the dead center of the fermenter. When fermenter is not in use, i'm not burning electricity on it. I'll pretty mine up a bit in the new brewery, probably make a new door for it.
I have two old refrigerators I could tear apart. I use one now for controlling the temps in two five G carboys with blow off tubes. Has worked great but am now wanting to consolidate the yeast for easier harvest, less lifting and this is a part of a larger overall plan.
So, I am interested in this deconstruction at some point as well as the conical build.
I am soon to order the parts I need for the conical. Does a 15 gallon conical end up with 15 gallons of beer out? Or, is it too small for an actual 15 gallon end result? I want 15 gallons for a number of reasons one of them is I want to use a refrigerator rather than building a stand alone chamber.
Why 2 of the 1.5" NPT? And if you want you only need 3 clamps, gaskets, and 1 cap. Also my first batch I tried without a racking port and it sucked. I now have a better bottle racking port.
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