Stainless Camlocks review

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Good discussion. I love my camlocks....they're just burly and industrial looking :rockin: And affordable. I think for homebrewing, anything >1/2" IS probably overkill....but a lot of us like it that way :D My rationale was this: I'm using 1" triclovers, so I'm already at 7/8" ID....and that's pretty massive. If I were to go with smaller tubing, I'd have fluid pooling in the system. My LG 3-MD-HC pump has an intake of 3/4" and I really wanted to take advantage of that as well. Silicone tubing is MEGA expensive once you go past 1/2"...especially for the reinforced kind....but I did manage to find 5/8" ID silicone for a fair price so I went with it even though it wasn't a full 3/4". I used 3/4" camlocks in my system and HAD to grind down the MPT end because the tubing wouldn't fit.....but now even with 5/8" tubing there will be massive flow....it's awesome. I guess the only reason why I did all of this is because I was building a new system and had this in mind...I wouldn't recommend it as an upgrade because you'd most likely be throttling back the flow.
 
I just used white zip ties pulled on over my street elbows. I did not grind the threads, just stretched a bit and threaded them on. Then put on the zip ties. Nice clean look, the white zip ties blend in to the hose and it works, no leaks. Also I have 6 of these hoses all the same length so I do not have to worry about what goes where, just hook it up and go.
 
Got my cam locks just waiting for that Silicone tubing to arrive at the moment. LHBS wanted 4 bucks per foot.

And it's a long thread so I'll just ask. Anyone take the rings off of their cam locks? They look like they would get in the way.

And I am guessing the pin isn't required for our application?
 
ScubaSteve said:
Good discussion. I love my camlocks....they're just burly and industrial looking :rockin: And affordable. I think for homebrewing, anything >1/2" IS probably overkill....but a lot of us like it that way :D My rationale was this: I'm using 1" triclovers, so I'm already at 7/8" ID....and that's pretty massive. If I were to go with smaller tubing, I'd have fluid pooling in the system. My LG 3-MD-HC pump has an intake of 3/4" and I really wanted to take advantage of that as well. Silicone tubing is MEGA expensive once you go past 1/2"...especially for the reinforced kind....but I did manage to find 5/8" ID silicone for a fair price so I went with it even though it wasn't a full 3/4". I used 3/4" camlocks in my system and HAD to grind down the MPT end because the tubing wouldn't fit.....but now even with 5/8" tubing there will be massive flow....it's awesome. I guess the only reason why I did all of this is because I was building a new system and had this in mind...I wouldn't recommend it as an upgrade because you'd most likely be throttling back the flow.
Click to expand...

Where did you buy your silicone tubing? I have a LG TE-5.5-MD-HC (1" inlet) and an 809-C (with 3/4" center inlet) so I would really like to convert all my kettles to 3/4" dump valves and hoses (I get some compression from the suction on the inlet for the LG pump today).

I found these for $27 per lf but man, even if I get my system pretty compact, that will run a pretty penny.
http://www.turbohoses.com/Turbo Hose.htm
 
Randar said:
Where did you buy your silicone tubing? I have a LG TE-5.5-MD-HC (1" inlet) and an 809-C (with 3/4" center inlet) so I would really like to convert all my kettles to 3/4" dump valves and hoses (I get some compression from the suction on the inlet for the LG pump today).

I found these for $27 per lf but man, even if I get my system pretty compact, that will run a pretty penny.
http://www.turbohoses.com/Turbo Hose.htm
Click to expand...

bend over and get serviced with out lube paying $27 a foot

US plastics $10.xx a foot
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23278&catid=864&clickid=searchresults

-=Jason=-
 
If you just need a short run, it's actually cheaper to use mostly ss tubing with a few very short sections of silicone tubing. US Plastics has good prices, but you have to buy like 10'. I think McMaster will let you buy in smaller sections. Also, consider the all-SS corrugated flexes halfway down this page I got my silicone tubing on ebay, but it was one of those lucky finds. I used the corrugated flexes to supply water to my chiller in a blingtastic way...regular silicone tubing couldn't handle the pressure.
 
A question ... for those of us (like me!) for whom bling doesn't matter so much, or who don't have access to a bench grinder, might these be a good solution to the connection issue? Seems like you'd end up with pretty much the same thing as elbow+hose barb but with one fewer piece. If I'm getting things right, McMaster has them for about $3.50 each. I guess the only issue would be if the flow gets restricted in the middle of the elbow ... might be worth ordering a few just to see.

What do people think?

FIT082.jpg
 
Bench grinders are about $30 and you will use them for A LOT of stuff.....I know it begs the question...just sayin' :mug:
 
BendBrewer said:
Got my cam locks just waiting for that Silicone tubing to arrive at the moment. LHBS wanted 4 bucks per foot.

And it's a long thread so I'll just ask. Anyone take the rings off of their cam locks? They look like they would get in the way.

And I am guessing the pin isn't required for our application?
Click to expand...

They were the first things I removed. Not needed at all. Now they are keyings....somewhere. I gave them away.
 
Palefire said:
A question ... for those of us (like me!) for whom bling doesn't matter so much, or who don't have access to a bench grinder, might these be a good solution to the connection issue? Seems like you'd end up with pretty much the same thing as elbow+hose barb but with one fewer piece. If I'm getting things right, McMaster has them for about $3.50 each. I guess the only issue would be if the flow gets restricted in the middle of the elbow ... might be worth ordering a few just to see.

What do people think?

FIT082.jpg
Click to expand...

I'd sooner stick with the mcmaster brass disconnects in that case. I'm not saying brass is problematic, but if you're going with the camloks primarily because they are stainless and higher flow, this brass elbow stifles one or both of those benefits.
 
ScubaSteve said:
If you just need a short run, it's actually cheaper to use mostly ss tubing with a few very short sections of silicone tubing. US Plastics has good prices, but you have to buy like 10'. I think McMaster will let you buy in smaller sections. Also, consider the all-SS corrugated flexes halfway down this page I got my silicone tubing on ebay, but it was one of those lucky finds. I used the corrugated flexes to supply water to my chiller in a blingtastic way...regular silicone tubing couldn't handle the pressure.
Click to expand...

Steve,

Got any pics or more info on how you hooked the corrugated ss tube up? I like that idea.
 
Bobby_M said:
I'd sooner stick with the mcmaster brass disconnects in that case. I'm not saying brass is problematic, but if you're going with the camloks primarily because they are stainless and higher flow, this brass elbow stifles one or both of those benefits.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I totally get that these negate the "all stainless" point of the camlocks. From a higher flow perspective, however, these still seem like they fit the bill, no? Or would they restrict flow in a way I can't think of right now?

I personally don't care so much about stainless vs. brass (I'm not very bling-y), but if I ever end up whirlpooling 10 gallon batches, I could see the flow rate making a difference. So I guess I was tossing this out as a possible alternative to the SS elbows for the lazy, tightwad brewers (like me :cross:) and seeing if people thought they'd fly.
 
Yambor44 said:
Steve,

Got any pics or more info on how you hooked the corrugated ss tube up? I like that idea.
Click to expand...

This sounds like a bad idea first off how you going to get all the crap out that settles in between the corrugations?
Second the flow will be reduced by the corrugations vs using any smooth ID tubing be it silicone or stainless. JMO's.
 
BrewBeemer said:
This sounds like a bad idea first off how you going to get all the crap out that settles in between the corrugations?
Second the flow will be reduced by the corrugations vs using any smooth ID tubing be it silicone or stainless. JMO's.
Click to expand...

Very valid points. I wasn't thinking about the inside. Looks like he uses it for water fill only anyway. Thanks for the heads up.
 
Palefire said:
Yeah, I totally get that these negate the "all stainless" point of the camlocks. From a higher flow perspective, however, these still seem like they fit the bill, no? Or would they restrict flow in a way I can't think of right now?

I personally don't care so much about stainless vs. brass (I'm not very bling-y), but if I ever end up whirlpooling 10 gallon batches, I could see the flow rate making a difference. So I guess I was tossing this out as a possible alternative to the SS elbows for the lazy, tightwad brewers (like me :cross:) and seeing if people thought they'd fly.
Click to expand...

From what I've seen, unless you buy "Full Flow" barb fittings (and they are spendy), they all reduce the flow. You need to check the ID of those fittings.

If you want to save some money, don't care about the bling, and still want the benefit of the elbow, you could buy brass Street Elbows.
 
Ohio-Ed said:
From what I've seen, unless you buy "Full Flow" barb fittings (and they are spendy), they all reduce the flow. You need to check the ID of those fittings.
Click to expand...

Ahh... that's what I was looking for. Ok, makes total sense. Thanks much for the info.

Seems like the best non-bling, no-work solution is still elbow+5/8 hose barb. Think the order'll go in today!
 
No grinding on mine and no leaks. Just slip on the hose and thread it down. I use a zip-tie instead of a clamp. Up to you, but I would go with the stainless over the brass when the costs are the same.
 
Street Ell's have a larger cross sectional area aka larger ID, second they are of a larger radius internally including the short side aka inside od bend which flows far better than any 90 degree brass fitting.
Liquid does not like to turn any turn plus a adding a sharp turn increases flow resistance now have two faults with brass fittings.
What's it worth to you, cry about removing threads on a street ell then have a higher flowing SS fitting or live with brass and its reduced flow? Kind of like building a race car then powering it going "Green" with a small electric motor or a $2K brew rig but you saved $40 using brass fittings.
When dealing with low pressures as well low flowing pumps at only 1/25 hp plus a long restrictive chiller it's a no brainer. I had to reply, not to offend anyone. Prost.
 
BrewBeemer said:
Street Ell's have a larger cross sectional area aka larger ID, second they are of a larger radius internally including the short side aka inside od bend which flows far better than any 90 degree brass fitting.
Liquid does not like to turn any turn the sharper it is increases the flow resistance you now have two faults with brass fittings.
What's it worth to you, cry about removing threads on a street ell then have a higher flowing SS fitting or live with brass and its reduced flow?
Click to expand...

Yes, yes, I get that the 90-degree brass fittings aren't a good option!! That's why I posted here - I randomly ran across them online, wasn't sure if they'd work or not and figured people here would be able to tell me.

I'm not crying about removing threads - I just don't have a bench grinder, and can't see it as being worth the trouble (for me, at least - if I had a shop things might be different) when I can just thread on a 5/8" hose barb, or even just use the street elbow as is. Not trying to start a fight, just trying to figure out what the best option for me was!
 
a 4.5" hand held angle grinder with flapper wheel is what I am going to use to get the job done. shouldn't take long at all to be honest.

-=Jason=-
 
Palefire said:
I'm not crying about removing threads - I just don't have a bench grinder, and can't see it as being worth the trouble
Click to expand...

Your not dealing that many fittings are you?
With a arbor pushed into the male end motorized by a drill motor against a belt sander would result in quick and even material removal.
This shouldn't cost that much to have done shop around as your system will flow much better years to come. JMO.
 
Don't grind them, just use them with the threads intact. I have 5 hoses this way and no issues with my LG pumps. Easy as threading everything together.
 
BrewBeemer said:
Replace the street ell with a elbow, add a 1/2" MNPT to 5/8" barb fitting to maintain 1/2" ID plus a larger turn radius than that sharp 90 degree brass fitting. No grinding required.
Click to expand...

Yep, think that's the plan. That's what I was going to do initially, but then I ran across those 90* hose barbs and said "hmmmm..." Glad I didn't just go ahead and order.

Palefire said:
Seems like the best non-bling, no-work solution is still elbow+5/8 hose barb
Click to expand...
 
UPS just dropped off a couple boxes for me :)

I'm stoked to be able to brew in style for my very first brew this sunday.

I don't have Silicone tubing yet and can't get any in time, but I do have some Braided vinyl tubing from Home Depot it should work for my first brew session even if I have to slum it up for one session I can live with it.

IMG_20110119_120304.jpg


IMG_20110119_120821.jpg


IMG_20110119_120340.jpg


damn these are Teeny TINY... I am used to stocking 2" camlock fittings and these 1/2" are like lil babies compared to the 2" fittings.

-=Jason=-
 
wildwest450 said:
It likely isn't.


_
Click to expand...

snaps, looks like I'll have to hold off on brewing on Sunday then drat.

but whats this I hear people talking about using that braided vinyl tubing from HD or lowes and not bothering with silicone, do certian markets carry different braided tubing?

-=Jason=-
 
I know mine is only rated to 170f, and most are only like 150f I believe. I only use it to recirculate my hlt and mash. It MAY be ok, if you don't use it for boiling.
 
wildwest450 said:
I know mine is only rated to 170f, and most are only like 150f I believe. I only use it to recirculate my hlt and mash. It MAY be ok, if you don't use it for boiling.
Click to expand...

well I was going to use it when I was done with my boil to pump through my CFC and back into the Keggle for a whirlpool.

-=Jason=-
 
Flomaster said:
well I was going to use it when I was done with my boil to pump through my CFC and back into the Keggle for a whirlpool.

-=Jason=-
Click to expand...

If it helps I haven't brewed in over a month and am right there with you. Finally got my silicone hose but still waiting on high-temp regulator and hoses. I think I spent more on the shipping for those than the parts themselves just to get them here before the weekend. I have tons of new toys to play with and am just itching.
 
how about some SS braided tubing like they use for your sink with 1/2" swivel connections.

-=Jason=-
 
I don't know about that stuff. Is there a heat rating?

Got any soft copper tubing you could rig up to your ball valve with a compression fitting to get you through? Just make a quick return with it.
 
BendBrewer said:
I don't know about that stuff. Is there a heat rating?

Got any soft copper tubing you could rig up to your ball valve with a compression fitting to get you through? Just make a quick return with it.
Click to expand...

just found a spec sheet its only rated to 140F...

damn well I guess I'll just have to hold off on my brew until I get some silicone tubing.

-=Jason=-
 

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