SSR Question

[Syncman]

Have been told yes, its OK, but would like confirmation. Simple 2 gallon BIAB, 120V 1400W element. Mypin TA4 controller, SSR output for element. To bypass the SSR for a boil, is it OK to "short circuit" the output of the SSR with a simple on/off switch? That is how I would do it if using a relay instead of a SSR. Dont want to burn a perfectly good SSR.

 

[dmcman73]

Why would you bypass the SSR? The whole purpose of the SSR and PID is to have a controlled boil. If set to 100% on the SSR, it will be a roaring boil once boil reaches, I have to sometimes lower the PID to about 60-75% power. you don't want to boil off so quickly as you could impart funky flavors into your brew.

EDIT: As the SSR is heating up the element, it's on full. Once the PID senses that the temp you set is reached, the PID will then start pulsing the SSR to keep it under control.

 

[Jaybird]

Don't see any reason why not. I guess the question is WHY? let the controller run at 100% and blast away. Why would you want to bypass the SSR?

Cheers
Jay

 

[Syncman]

Just thought it would be easier to just flip a switch to start boil. The mypin is a POS. [my opinion] The program buttons respond very slowly, sometimes not at all when pressed too quickly.

 

[dmcman73]

Just thought it would be easier to just flip a switch to start boil. The mypin is a POS. [my opinion] The program buttons respond very slowly, sometimes not at all when pressed too quickly.

The TA4's do not have manual mode which you want when going for a boil. The mypin TD4 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/F-C-Dual-Di...506?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2570d6355a) does have this mode and is the one that I use on my BK with perfect results.

Other one to consider, and are better, is the Auber SYL-2352, they are a bit more in price though. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3

EDIT: Also, get an RTD Temp probe with whatever PID you get, they are more accurate and better made. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=20_15

 

[MrShake]

Personally, i would go the other direction, and "short circuit" the control side of the ssr. Put a 3 way switch in the line, you would have ON (manual) / OFF / AUTO (PID controlled)

Then you are still using the SSR to turn the element on and off, and only controlling the 12v source. I like to control 12v more than I like to control 120v or bigger.

 

[Protto]

Of course you can. As long as the switch can take the voltage and current.

 

[BigFloppy]

Overriding output circuit should be ok

 

[augiedoggy]

Just thought it would be easier to just flip a switch to start boil. The mypin is a POS. [my opinion] The program buttons respond very slowly, sometimes not at all when pressed too quickly.

Ive never heard anyone complain of this before nor have I seen this delay with any of mine... I wonder if you might not see the same results with another brand pid too I dont think your going to find touchscreen response on this type of device anywhere but I could be wrong... or maybe you got a bad pid?
It takes like 3 second to change the temp value on a mypin pid and if you had the TD4 you would find the manual mode for the boil easier to use than the auber units which many people seem to bypass with a manual knob and the additional wiring/hardware...