Ss Brewtech 15 gallon Electric Kettle Conversion

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tofuguy

tofuguy

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Being an electrical engineer, I decided to dip my big toe into the electric brewing world with upgrading my 8 gallon economy kettle with a 15 gallon Ss Brewtech Kettle along with a 5500W all stainless steel element from Brewhardware.com. I already have a 240v 30a outlet in my garage for EV charger, just had to swap breakers to GFCI.

I created a very simple controller with a SSR-VR, 500k potentiometer, and LED. A very simple variable controller. I purchased all parts ala carte to keep my cost down. I also choose twist lock connectors instead of outlets to save on cost.

I have tested everything with 4 gallons of water so far. No issues (leaks/shorts). I cannot wait for my first brew day this weekend. I will be sure to post pictures.

View attachment 1488330018631.jpg

View attachment 1488330030869.jpg

View attachment 1488330042188.jpg
 
Nice job on the build! I am actually thinking about doing a 5 gallon BIAB setup so I can go test batches. before committing to 10 gallons on my HERMS. Can you share the details on your controller?

Cheers
 
Thank you! Here is a very crude schematic. You just have to manage 3 wires (L1, L2 and GND) since there is no need for N in this setup. No bells and whistles here, just pure function. I hope in years to come to build a nice control panel when I go to a 3 kettle system indoors. As long as I am out in the garage, this will have to do. (I still want to park 2 cars in the garage, so move a 3 kettle system from the basement to garage is not something I want to do)

Parts List:
40A SSR-VR
Enclosure (Junction Box from Big Box Store) - I chose as small as possible 6x6x4 inch
L6-30 Twist lock connectors (Used off eBAY - I bought in bulk)
500k Potentiometer (Bought off eBAY - Slow boat from Asia)
Knob for potentiometer (Bought off eBAY - Slow boat from Asia)
240VAC LED (Bought off eBAY - Slow boat from Asia)
10-3 wire SJOOW (couple feet from big box)
Left over 18AWG wire for the Pot to SSR and high voltage to LED.
Aluminium Heat sink (Bought off eBAY - Slow boat from Asia)
Cord grips (3/4 in)

schematic.JPG
 
So like any DIYer, I have already begun modifying my setup again. I am working towards an eBIAB setup now. Just finished modifying my simple controller with a used Auber PID. Everything seems to be working from a dry test. Tomorrow I will install the RTD into my kettle and do a wet test (boil). I still need to buy some fittings to get my recirculation setup going. I plan to have two RTDs so I can monitor my boil temperature. I am very excited for this project.

Again this box does not control the pump due to my garage 240V service is only a 3 wire, so I will need to build a switch for my pump.

Additional hardware bought:
Auber PID
2x RTDs off eBay. One for recirc and one for the boil
Inline fuses for the Auber's protection
3 pin Aviator connector off eBay to connect the RTD wire into the box
40A SSR (swapped out my SSR-VR)

View attachment 1495502875037.jpg
 
Wet test going well. I had to do a 5 degree offset in the PID to match my lab grade thermometer. I have tested at 170F and 160F, and the same offset is required. Anyone else have similar experience with requiring an offset with a Chinese RTD attached to an Auber PID?

View attachment 1495579881291.jpg
 
tofuguy said:
Being an electrical engineer, I decided to dip my big toe into the electric brewing world with upgrading my 8 gallon economy kettle with a 15 gallon Ss Brewtech Kettle along with a 5500W all stainless steel element from Brewhardware.com. I already have a 240v 30a outlet in my garage for EV charger, just had to swap breakers to GFCI.
Click to expand...

Did you have any problems drilling large holes in the curved surface of the stainless steel? How did you do it?
 
This is the exact build I want to do. I was planning on getting a false bottom to keep the bag off the element but that doesn't look like its an issue for you?

I'm also thinking of adding a 1.5TC port using the SS Brewtech compression fitting.

Once I start ordering pieces I'll most likely have LOTS of questions :)
 
jappler said:
This is the exact build I want to do. I was planning on getting a false bottom to keep the bag off the element but that doesn't look like its an issue for you?

I'm also thinking of adding a 1.5TC port using the SS Brewtech compression fitting.

Once I start ordering pieces I'll most likely have LOTS of questions :)
Click to expand...

I use a false bottom during the mash. Here is what I use with 2 inch standoffs. https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/biabbottom15.htm

Feel free to ask any questions. I will be glad to give insight.
 
Did you find that the 2 inch is enough clearance for the element?

I was looking at the same false bottom and have the same kettle but was not sure if I should go for the 3.5inch to be sure there was enough room down there.
 
Totally said:
Did you find that the 2 inch is enough clearance for the element?
Click to expand...

I had the same debate for nearly 2 weeks. It all depends on where your element end up after install. I had enough clearance on my case. Measure and measure again. You do not need a lot of clearance though. I have 1/2 inch.

You can always buy the 3.5 inch standoffs and cut them down with an angle grinder.

I was worried about space/coverage since I only plan to brew 5 gallon batches. I like brewing a couple times a month. This is why I put the element a little over a 1/2 inch from the bottom at it's lowest point (the tip/fold back point.)
 
I don't understand why there aren't more quality electric boilers available - the few I can find are 'fit it yourself' - I just need domestic element, 30L kettle with markings, high quality tap with hop strainer
 
65C said:
I don't understand why there aren't more quality electric boilers available - the few I can find are 'fit it yourself' - I just need domestic element, 30L kettle with markings, high quality tap with hop strainer
Click to expand...

Have you looked at Unibrau, highgravity, brew-boss, or Colorado Brewing Systems? Their systems may be more than what you're looking for as they include temp controllers and biab baskets.
 
beernutz said:
Have you looked at Unibrau, highgravity, brew-boss, or Colorado Brewing Systems? Their systems may be more than what you're looking for as they include temp controllers and biab baskets.
Click to expand...

in the UK there is no (that I have found yet) £200/$260 quality 40L/10 gallon electric boiler with markings, domestic plug etc. that would you get from doing this SS conversion yourself

I've found companies that do similar but they supply it as self-build parts as they are conversions - not finished products

those you've mentioned seem to be much higher price and didn't see UK links when I did a quick Google
 
65C said:
in the UK there is no (that I have found yet) £200/$260 quality 40L/10 gallon electric boiler with markings, domestic plug etc. that would you get from doing this SS conversion yourself

I've found companies that do similar but they supply it as self-build parts as they are conversions - not finished products

those you've mentioned seem to be much higher price and didn't see UK links when I did a quick Google
Click to expand...

I understand. You might consider adding your location in your HBT profile which will display when you post.
 
65C said:
in the UK there is no (that I have found yet) £200/$260 quality 40L/10 gallon electric boiler with markings, domestic plug etc. that would you get from doing this SS conversion yourself
Click to expand...

My parts list is a lot more than $260 for the Kettle...
$200 for the Kettle (eBay)
$41 for the element
$26 for the element enclosure
$28 for the bag
$35 for the false bottom
$31 for the spin cycle (whirlpool)
$15 for the cable (used)

So expecting $260 for a pre-built unit is underestimating the cost. And this does not include the fittings, plumbing, pump and hardware.

Don't ever let my wife see this post...
 
tofuguy said:
My parts list is a lot more than $260 for the Kettle...
$200 for the Kettle (eBay)
$41 for the element
$26 for the element enclosure
$28 for the bag
$35 for the false bottom
$31 for the spin cycle (whirlpool)
$15 for the cable (used)

So expecting $260 for a pre-built unit is underestimating the cost. And this does not include the fittings, plumbing, pump and hardware.

Don't ever let my wife see this post...
Click to expand...

First off, sweet build. I have a 10 gallon SS Brewtech that I kick myself for not going 15 in the beginning for 10 gallon batch capacity. I wanted to build a setup like FreddyMar3 but I just don't brew enough to justify something of that magnitude.

Couple of questions if you don't mind:
1) How did you affix the element to the side of the kettle. Is it just a NPT female thread on the element head with a bulkhead compression fitting and some sort of o-ring? Can you take any up close pictures of it for me? I am assuming you have not had any leak issues with it.

2) Have you had any leaking issues with your red silicone o-rings on the SS brewtech kettle throughout your brew days?

3) I see you added a second RTD probe to the discharge side of the pump, just prior to going into the kettle but kept the first one in the kettle. Do you use both of these during your brew day? If not, which one do you use more?

4) Does the whirlpool arm running cause any fluctuation in your kettle mounted RTD probe readings when running?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
 
Thank you. Hope these answers help. I was going to go 10 gallon also, but the typical 5500W ripple element does not fit, so I went 15 gallon. I was originally going to slowly build a eHERMs setup (over years), but decided to go eBIAB for the cost effectiveness of the setup.

1. Locknut on the inside of the kettle with a captured o-ring. I had o put another o-ring on the outside to stop all leaks. Without the outside o-ring i had one drop every 2-3 minutes. Order from inside to outside: locknut > o-ring > kettle wall > o-ring > enclosure.

2. No leaks after using an o-ring on each side of the kettle. (7 brew sessions so far)

3. I use both. The one on the lid is only used during the mash. The other is used during the boil and whirlpool. I like to keep an eye on the temp throughout the boil and during the whirlpool and chilling process, so the lid one is not ideal for those.

4. I do not see any variation during whirlpool. The temp is rather stable decline during chilling. I only added the whirlpool arm since i had the hole already standard on the kettle. I figured WTH, I will add one. Beats stirring during cooling.
 
Enjoying a coffee as I am running an Autotune at 152 before my brew day. Going to be making a Session Black IPA. 5.2% ABV and 48 IBUs. Most of the IBUs will come from late additions.

Added casters to my cart so I can roll everything out to the driveway when I am ready for chilling. My immersion chiller's waste line is too short to reach out of the garage.

View attachment 1499424510583.jpg
 
Well after my last brew day, I had issues with the connection of my Chinese RTD from eBay and the PID overshooting it's setpoint at ramp up, I decided to upgrade my setup once again. I bought new RTDs with XLR connectors and a EZBoil from Auber. Set me back over $100, but after a wet test last night, wow, so much better. I highly recommend this option for anyone where cost is not a worry. The quality difference is noticeable on the RTD and connectors.

The only reason I went with a SYL-2352 PID to start was I got a really good deal for a used one. ($25) I could not pass it up. But I can see why people have switched to the EZBoil with it's phase angle firing method. The control is superior to a 2 second period from the standard PID. Best part is I did not even have to tune the unit. Only had to calibrate my new mash sensor around 152F.

View attachment 1500118709681.jpg
 
tofuguy said:
Well after my last brew day, I had issues with the connection of my Chinese RTD from eBay and the PID overshooting it's setpoint at ramp up, I decided to upgrade my setup once again. I bought new RTDs with XLR connectors and a EZBoil from Auber. Set me back over $100, but after a wet test last night, wow, so much better. I highly recommend this option for anyone where cost is not a worry. The quality difference is noticeable on the RTD and connectors.
Click to expand...

A high quality PT-100 RTD probe is a sound investment. I've had to bin a cheap ebay probe due to it being so far off I had no confidence in it even after calibration. A good quality RTD will be constructed from a material with excellent linearity and have low drift over the temperature range you care about. They do still need calibrating though. As a bare minimum you should verify it reads 0.0C in an ice water bath.
 
tofuguy said:
Thank you! Here is a very crude schematic. You just have to manage 3 wires (L1, L2 and GND) since there is no need for N in this setup. No bells and whistles here, just pure function. ...
Click to expand...

As an added safety feature, I recommend OP, and anyone copying OP's design in the quoted post, to add a 30A DPST (double pole single throw) switch between the incoming power and the SSR/SSVR and element. This holds whether you are using an SSVR controlled with a potentiometer, or an SSR driven by a PID or EZBoil (I recommend the EZBoil over a PID.) The reason for this is that SSR's and SSVR's tend to fail in the "on" mode, and there is also enough leakage current (even when operating correctly) to give you a shock. You want to have a mechanical switch to protect against these characteristics. A Leviton 3032 (or equivalent) is suitable. They look like ordinary light switches, but are different inside. Below is a schematic for a simple system that uses an EZBoil + SSR.

DSPR120 1 - Element 240V only.PNG

Brew on :mug:
 
If you do have 4 wire service as above, a 120V line with switch could be added to drive a pump right? It was go across the neutral and either line 1 or 2? I plan on making this exact controller once I make the switch from my induction burner.
 
jamorgan3777 said:
If you do have 4 wire service as above, a 120V line with switch could be added to drive a pump right? It was go across the neutral and either line 1 or 2? I plan on making this exact controller once I make the switch from my induction burner.
Click to expand...

Absolutely! Here's the version of the design that has a pump outlet.

DSPR120 1-Pump Simple.jpg

Brew on :mug:
 
tofuguy said:
. I also choose twist lock connectors instead of outlets to save on cost.
Click to expand...

Can you tell me what kind of connector you used to protect the connections on the heater element? Is it a water tight connection to protect from splashes?
 
tofuguy said:
My parts list is a lot more than $260 for the Kettle...
$200 for the Kettle (eBay)
$41 for the element
$26 for the element enclosure
$28 for the bag
$35 for the false bottom
$31 for the spin cycle (whirlpool)
$15 for the cable (used)

So expecting $260 for a pre-built unit is underestimating the cost. And this does not include the fittings, plumbing, pump and hardware.

Don't ever let my wife see this post...
Click to expand...
Some people look harder for the better deals and or use different (more economical) components that function the same so everyones prices will vary but you can easily hit that goal I think..

My 16 gallon e kettle...

$127 shipped from amazon for the bayou stainless 1062 kettle with spigot.. (scratch and dent which had neither ordered 2 kettles this way)

$16 (+15 shipping =$31) tc based with 30p twist lock plug built in 5500w heating element.. (ordered 2 directly from manufacturer found on alibaba)

$35 false bayou bottom new from ebay.

$25 bag (which I got from the popular bag vendor here custom made but never used)

$12 cable+ $8 for the outlet to plug the element in and $9 for 30 amp aviation connection for the other end at my control panel.

about $23 for the weldless TC fitting from brewhardware to mount the element.

$18 shipped for the 24v dc food grade high temp 3 gallon per minute pump...

I could go on but this additional stuff is not needed nor is it included in the cost of an electric kettle really...
 
EnglishAndy said:
A high quality PT-100 RTD probe is a sound investment. I've had to bin a cheap ebay probe due to it being so far off I had no confidence in it even after calibration. A good quality RTD will be constructed from a material with excellent linearity and have low drift over the temperature range you care about. They do still need calibrating though. As a bare minimum you should verify it reads 0.0C in an ice water bath.
Click to expand...
How odd... I havent exactly shared your experience but I did get burned on one crap probe.
I have bought about 12 different cheap rtds off ebay and only had one issue with a crap non stainless one I bought for $6 on amazon (I have bought similar stainless metric m8 based ones that measured perfectly but replaced due to not caring for the permanently attached stainless cable which I dont care for.... In fact the same cheap generic chinese rtds auber sells as their own are up on ebay for $12 the only difference being the plug at the probe end of the rtd is a 4 pin with only 3 being used vs auber having a 3pin version of the same connector.

Auber doesnt make rtds... they buy them from china in bulk and resell at a large markup..
Their supplier actually uses their photos on alibaba and sells them in 304 or 316 stainless for about 1/3 the cost... brau supply used to use the same supplier (not sure if they still do).

this pt100 sensor is from the same manufacturer and uses the same type of connector only 4 pin
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-Pt100-T...560657&hash=item1eb2a071b4:g:lL0AAOSwqBJXXWGy

as this one,
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=261

The main difference here is one costs over 4 times more with the stainless cable "upgrade" + shipping than the other...

in fact I know of 2 people here that went the other direction and after having shorts develop in the wiring of their auber sourced probes replaced them with these and had no problems so YMMV I guess..

BTW I use these in my boil and HLT and have for over 3 years now..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-PT100-T...946264?hash=item280fedfa98:g:1SAAAOSw-zxWm6lk

I find the teflon shielded cable is better and less likely to kink than the stainless stuff which I have as well on other probes.


EDIT speak of the devil, heres another example from today
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=634235
 
Nice work. I've been toying with converting my gas fired system. I'm curious as to the watt density of your heating element? I would imagine sourcing the wort would be fairly easy with 5500w. Any issues?

Cheers
 
Sudz said:
Nice work. I've been toying with converting my gas fired system. I'm curious as to the watt density of your heating element? I would imagine sourcing the wort would be fairly easy with 5500w. Any issues?

Cheers
Click to expand...
scorching the wort is very unlikely (and actually difficult to do with the ULWD ripple elements)... Its more common with the higher watt density straight elements.
 
augiedoggy said:
BTW I use these in my boil and HLT and have for over 3 years now..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-PT100-T...946264?hash=item280fedfa98:g:1SAAAOSw-zxWm6lk

I find the teflon shielded cable is better and less likely to kink than the stainless stuff which I have as well on other probes.
Click to expand...

Good to know. I was looking at those as well for the short probe, but for some reason the images put me off - gray appearance of the SS. I did order for an Inkbird IPB-16 one of the $12 units with the metal cable sleeve you also recommend. Should be on my doorstep tonight and hope to solder up to a plug this weekend, then test.
 

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