Spunding Disaster

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

pvpeacock

Supporting Member
HBT Supporter
Joined
Mar 20, 2013
Messages
2,296
Reaction score
1,802
Location
Palos Verdes Estates
Over the last few months, I have been using spunding valves on my kegs to naturally carbonate beer for a variety of reasons. In addition, I have added floating dip tubes to avoid clogging the metal ones with the sediment from the bottom of the keg.

Last night I checked on two kegs that I started naturally cabonating a few days ago using 1 cup of sugar each. One keg was at 28 psi (the spunding valve is set at 30 psi) and the other was at 12 psi which was curious. I then noticed that the one with the lower psi had foam leaking out of the beer out post -- a poppet leak! I cleaned away the foam and saw a very, very slow leak bubbling out of the poppet. I pushed down on it with my finger a number of times to see if I could get it to reseal. No luck. I then checked the post with a wrench to make sure it was tight. It was. I then got out a small screw driver figuring that if I pushed the poppet down a little more than my finger could do and re-centered it, I could get it to reseal. Instead, I somehow dislodged the poppet in the post which caused a beer eruption.

I quickly put my thumb over the post which just caused the beer to spray in every direction in my garage instead of up. I grabbed the keg and dragged it out on to the driveway as quickly as I could and grabbed a rag in the process that I put over the post. When I got to the driveway, I pulled the pressure relieve valve in the lid to stop the flow. Although gas escaped from the PRV, the beer did not stop spraying out of the post. I then took the small screwdriver and pushed the poppet on the gas in post to relieve more pressure, but the beer just kept coming. I tried pushing the lid down to open it, but there was still too much pressure in the keg. Eventually, I took the wrench, loosened the beer out post enough to get the poppet back in position and tightened it back down. Finally, the beer stopped squirting out of the post.

My wife came out of the house to see what was going on. I was soaked head to toe in beer; there was beer all over my truck and on the driveway; and, there was beer on the floor (carpeted) and walls of the garage. What a mess.

What I can't figure out is why the poppet started to leak? When I filled the keg, I hooked it up to my CO2 tank at 30 psi to purge and seal it. In addition, why did it keep spraying even after I opened the PRV and pushed the poppet on the gas in post down? Why didn't this relieve the pressure in the keg even though I could hear gas coming out of both? Would active fermentation cause this?

It also made me wonder if there is a way to cap the beer out post during spunding so I am not 100% dependent on the beer out poppet? Live and learn.
 
What I can't figure out is why the poppet started to leak? When I filled the keg, I hooked it up to my CO2 tank at 30 psi to purge and seal it. In addition, why did it keep spraying even after I opened the PRV and pushed the poppet on the gas in post down? Why didn't this relieve the pressure in the keg even though I could hear gas coming out of both? Would active fermentation cause this?

You just experienced gushing at keg scale. The combination of moving the keg around and releasing pressure triggered an uncontained release of CO2 from the beer.
I have no idea how the poppet could have become dislodged without somebody actually touching it though...
 
Its probably just a bad seal on the poppet.
Last time I was looking, it appeared you had to buy the whole poppet just to get a replacement seal.

Did you have the right amount of sugar to finish at ~12psi at 38 degrees or whatever? If so, what is the point of the spunding valve?
 
It was a bad seal on the poppet initially which I made worse when I tried to re-seat it by pushing down slightly with a screwdriver.

I have read so many variations on how much sugar to use in a keg from the same amount used for bottling to half the amount. I use the same amount you would for bottling and use the spunding valve in case this exceeds the carb level I'm looking for. I usually set the valve at 30 psi because it is fermenting/carbonating at 70 degrees which works out to around 2.5 volumes.
 
Well I answered my last question. You can buy 1/4" female flared caps. I think I will add these to a beer out quick disconnect to avoid the risk of another poppet failure. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SJZBBQB/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A11C4BL0LW72K5&psc=1


I'm in no way sure, but I don't think the flared end of the QD is SAE 45 degrees. I think it's JIC 37 degrees. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Also try to avoid brass and stay with stainless.

If you cap the QD you're depending on the keg post o ring, flare seal and the seal at the top of the QD to not leak, instead of just the poppet o ring. None of those should fail, but since a poppet o ring has **** the bed on you I can understand why you want to do it.
 
Understood and thank you. I have yet to find stainless caps for flared QD's. Rather than relying on the QD, I'll just keep a capped one around in case I see a leaking poppet. So rather than push the poppet down with a screwdriver again and start Mr. Vesuvius, I'll just stick the capped QD on it.
 
I recently had something similar happen. I don't spund, but I had the out post on my torpedo keg erupt when I removed the quick disconnect from it. It sprayed. I tried to cover with my thumb. This made it spray everywhere inside my fridge and all over me. I opened the PRV and it stopped.

I still don't really know what happened but I removed the post, sanitized, re-assembled, and it was fine. My fridge/kitchen was completely covered in sticky beer.
 
I have read so many variations on how much sugar to use in a keg from the same amount used for bottling to half the amount. I use the same amount you would for bottling and use the spunding valve in case this exceeds the carb level I'm looking for. I usually set the valve at 30 psi because it is fermenting/carbonating at 70 degrees which works out to around 2.5 volumes.

One of the big advantages of using a spunding valve is being able to transfer beer early and not needing priming sugar. Try transferring beer to keg with about 4 to 10 points of gravity remaining - typically (for a normal gravity ale) this is about the 3 to 4 day mark (but could be 2 or 10). You'll still have actively fermenting yeast this way, which quickly take up the O2 introduced during kegging, meaning fresher tasting beer. The downside is a bit of extra trub/yeast at the bottom of the keg.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top