yes they thanked me for pointing it out and changed their website.
Spike Conical- observations and best practices
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yes they thanked me for pointing it out and changed their website.
@TheMadKing I made the same decision a few months ago. I was unimpressed with the functional differences between a $300 diy versus a $1k professional unit. The only downside is an a/c unit is loud and somewhat large. I built a roller box to help muffle it some. On a positive note I can crash in the low 30s easily and my cooler is large enough to hold pumps for several other fermenters.
Nice! I was actually thinking of using a small server cabinet laid on its back as my box... It'll be out in the garage so I'm not too worried about noise. The commercial chillers are also all loud as well. I've seen many people compare them to the volume of window AC units so that doesn't seem to be a selling point either.
The Carlsberg brewery uses jet mixers to speed fermentation. Clearly it doesn't hurt anything.
Finally got my sight glass in!
Pretty happy (so far) for less than $30. After cleaning it, I kept getting leak issues (from the bottom of the glass portion. The gaskets look like they only fit one way, but after a second time, I'm hoping I have the leak fixed.
Biggest issue I worry about is if it can handle pressure. I like to spund this next batch when fermentation starts to slow. I have 12.5 gallons of my brewing water in there now to double check for leaks (going to let it set overnight). I guess I could just always hit the conical with a few pound of pressure and tighten down the nuts on it.
Pretty happy (so far) for less than $30. After cleaning it, I kept getting leak issues (from the bottom of the glass portion. The gaskets look like they only fit one way, but after a second time, I'm hoping I have the leak fixed.
Biggest issue I worry about is if it can handle pressure. I like to spund this next batch when fermentation starts to slow. I have 12.5 gallons of my brewing water in there now to double check for leaks (going to let it set overnight). I guess I could just always hit the conical with a few pound of pressure and tighten down the nuts on it.
looks nice but why is the valve between the sight glass and the elbow? I put my valve at the other end of the elbow, before the barb.
I've tried it both ways. With the valve above the elbow, it seemed easier to dump the trub and collect the yeast. It may be just me, but with the sediment compacting in the elbow, I felt like I didn't need as much pressure dumping it.
CodeSection
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Are you adding pressure?
That makes sense, the liquid accelerates before hitting the bend, rather than trying to accelerate inside the bend, so it blows through easier - good thinking
Yep, but not very high. I started low, then would increase the pressure. I can't remember what pressure I settled on, maybe 5-7? I don't remember it being higher than that as I was afraid I'd punch a hole through the trub.
When you're dumping trub by watching the site glass, then you can stop sooner (and with more precision) to isolate the above liquid from the trub when you see daylight, versus having the valve at the end and guessing when to close it. With 2" piping and butterfly valve (and sometimes added pressure!), the flow can really get away from you before you know it. Hate wasting any more volume than needed.
CodeSection
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With my process, my first dump prior to cold crashing, I regularly just open the valve one click, maybe two clicks depending upon the yeast flocculation, without any CO2 pressure. With the barb end cap and tubing setup, that is all I need for a controlled dump. There is enough force from the FV that I found there wasn't a need to add pressure.
The only time I added ~3 PSI above wetting pressure was when I dry hopped with a batch and the trub/hops were not moving. To each their own.....
jdr01
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I would like to share my experience with Spike after reading about others warranty concerns. I have had my CF15 since they started making them. After a few uses my 1.5" valve started leaking. I called and they replaced it. This week I received a replacement fermenter, lid, gasket and PRV assembly. My original lid started leaking so I kept making it tighter. The instructions say do not overtighten but it seemed like the only solution. The lip became distorted and would not hold even one PSI.
I explained all this to them looking for advise a solution. I had the replacement within a couple weeks.
I would say their customer support/warranty is as good s it gets.
I explained all this to them looking for advise a solution. I had the replacement within a couple weeks.
I would say their customer support/warranty is as good s it gets.
Bottom Line: Note what companies say in their warranties. But pay much closer attention to how they treat customers, regardless of what is written.
CodeSection
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Glad to hear as they are a great company. So, again, why do they not provide a warranty IF they will be providing good customer service to everyone anyway? Why do they provide a warranty on only a couple of their systems and not on other items?
Life doesn't come with a warranty - take the good where you can get it
CodeSection
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LOL. You mean they can't do both like they do on their Nano and Spike system? Like the one you own? Really? Lol....
Fair enough, Its not a bad point but I'm just not that worried about having it in writing. I'm more of a handshake kinda guy vs reading the fine print anyway
Every business gets one chance to make it right, if they fail at that, or do me wrong, then I move on. I can always make more money and I'm a pretty low stress person so I'm content with that. I live in the world of contracts and I understand the opposite point of view though
CodeSection
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And here I thought you worked in something else.
Contracts and warranties are really not that difficult. Especially since they already have a template and we are talking about manufacturing defects here. I guess it depends upon the experience and knowledge one has on the matter.The absent of a warranty, and Spike's recent answer do not reconcile with them having a warranty on their two systems. If it was "no big deal" as some may suggest, then why are they doing it? It doesn't really make sense, does it?
And here I thought you worked in something else.
The absent of a warranty, and Spike's recent answer do not reconcile with them having a warranty on their two systems. If it was "no big deal" as some may suggest, then why are they doing it? It doesn't really make sense, does it?
It could be as simple as an oversight and not a deliberate choice
Or they are actively writing on a legal document and don't want to put out anything in writing until it's finalized.
It could also be that people were taking advantage of their good customer service and are leaving themselves an out to deal with the bad eggs. They have to look out for their company too.
I don't think there's anything nefarious afoot. Actions always speak louder than words.
CodeSection
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All good points. But again, we are talking about manufacturing defects......nothing extreme. I doubt it is an oversight. Perhaps this would help....
==================================
"STANDARD ONE YEAR MANUFACTURER WARRANTY:
Fementer/kettle or you name it here
Spike warrants this product to be free from defects in workmanship and materials, under normal use and conditions, for a period of one (1) year from the original purchase date. Spike agrees, at its discretion during the warranty period, to repair a defect in material or workmanship or to furnish a repaired or refurbished product of equal value in exchange without charge.
WARRANTY LIMITATIONS
This warranty does not include:
· Any condition resulting from incorrect or inadequate maintenance or care
· Damage resulting from misuse, abuse, negligence or accidents
· Normal wear and tear
SPIKE GUARANTEE
If for any reason you have issues, please reach out to our customer support team HERE. We pride ourselves on having industry leading customer support and pledge to make sure our products perform for you each and every brew day."
======================================
It is really not that hard or difficult......
Anyone else having Deja vu?
jekeane
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Even with him ignored I know exactly what is happening right now...
CodeSection
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Give it a rest ........
i've never been a big warranty guy. like themadking says, actions speak louder than words. i've only had a couple issues with spike but each time, they made it right. send me the wrong size false bottom, sent me a shipping label and also a t-shirt. my kettles have sight glasses and the gallon markings on the metal sleeve were super hard to read. asked what was up, they sent me new ones without me asking, much easier to read. the conical heating pad was causing the conical to shock me when it operated, they sent me a new one. sure, would have been great if all this stuff was correct from the get go but they were a growing company at the time, trying new things. some work, some don't but when it didn't, they made it right.
I'm glad I dont harvest yeast. I still cant get a proper yeast dump. I did a dump on day 7 . I'm going to dry hop commando today ( first time not using a bag) then cold crash Monday for a couple days then keg. Once I transfer I'll post a pic of what's left in the bottom and let you guys have your take . It's really frustrating.
That stinks! I wonder- have we asked this yet- what type of yeast are you using? Forgive me if you have already mentioned this or thought about it, but how flocculent is your yeast? Also- are you crashing before your first dump?
I use med flocc usually, wlp001, flagship, wlp644, wlp300, GY054, k97 , and some others . I dont crash before dumping . I'm going to crash on Monday because I'm going to dry hop commando today . Normally I dump after a week or so . I've tried all kinds of stuff . Adding slight pressure to up to 10lbs , barley cracking the valve to 1 click , using a longer hose and even standing on one foot twirling in a circle to no avail lol . All I get is a liquidy creamy color that's not thick enough imo. I've seen videos where it almost looks like soft serve ice cream.
I have no difficulty dropping yeast and use US-05 90% of the time. I usually get this frothy carbonated yeast and over a day or two in the fridge it settles out. About 1/3 air, 1/3 beer, 1/3 thick creamy yeast.
Hmmm.... well, I wonder if that might be part of the problem. Unless it's highly floccunent, my understanding is it will not drop very easy without a crash first. If you have the heater element, maybe you could try a crash first, dump, then (slowly) warm your wort back up to temp and dry hop? Or, AFTER you dry hop, crash then dump, You may have to wash yeast then.
Actually what I did last few batches
- once fermentation is done, swap blow off tube for manifold
- pressurize headspace to 5-10 PSI
- Crash to 55F and hold for 24 hours at that temp.
- Harvest yeast
- Dry hop at 55F for 2 days with 2-3 hop rousing blasts of CO2 through the dump port
- Crash to 28F
- Dump hops 2-3 times over 2 days while carbonating with the carb stone
- Keg
So you guys prefer to dry hop in the 50's instead of 70?
I think extraction is improved in the 70s so I increase hop rate a bit to compensate. But 50s is decent and with the rousing I am getting good hop character. I could easily enough dump the yeast and then raise the temp back up but that would add an unnecessary step.
I'd probably be into the experiment if I had a glycol and a bunch of side by side CF5s. With my freezer and larger volume I can get to just about any temperature you could want but it probably moves something like 2 degrees per hour not 20 degrees per hour I think I saw in the glycol thread.
I'd probably be into the experiment if I had a glycol and a bunch of side by side CF5s. With my freezer and larger volume I can get to just about any temperature you could want but it probably moves something like 2 degrees per hour not 20 degrees per hour I think I saw in the glycol thread.
Had a pretty good brew day today and got done in time to see the Nasa/SpaceX launch today (that was pretty cool to see!). I brewed a pale ale with centennial, cascade and citra hops in it and will dryhop with probably 1.5-2 oz each too. Pitched some US-05 slurry from the previous beer (IPA) at 70F. It should drop in the mid 60s, my basement is 66F, by the time fermentation takes off.
For those in the know, how many times do you dump during the course of fermentation? Do you do small ones through out fermentation (dump the break before pitching, dump the trub before dryhopping, another to clear before racking, etc.) or do you do one great big heaving solid dump to evacuate the conical right before racking so you get clear beer?
This go around, I had some break material go in. It probably doesn't matter since that's what a dump valve is for anyways, but got me thinking on the above so wanted to know what some of you other owners are doing.
For those in the know, how many times do you dump during the course of fermentation? Do you do small ones through out fermentation (dump the break before pitching, dump the trub before dryhopping, another to clear before racking, etc.) or do you do one great big heaving solid dump to evacuate the conical right before racking so you get clear beer?
This go around, I had some break material go in. It probably doesn't matter since that's what a dump valve is for anyways, but got me thinking on the above so wanted to know what some of you other owners are doing.
CodeSection
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FWIW, I usually perform my first dump just prior to cold crashing. I perform a second dump after waiting at least 24 hours from the start of cold crashing (somewhere between 24-36 hours). I perform my third dump just prior to performing a closed transfer to my bright tank.
I measure the volume of all dumps and keep that info in the particular recipe I brewed so as I can compare it to future brews. As you can imagine, each dump produces less volume.
Since I use Norcal's yeast brink to inject hops when dry hopping, I perform a dump prior to injecting the hops. Then I follow the procedures described above.
I only have a cf5, so too many dumps= not enough beer. I just got a racking arm- for my last batch with about 6 punces pellet hops (loose) i didnt dump at all. Just used the racking arm. Easiest clearest transfer i ever did.
I did crash for about 48 hours at 38 or so. Gotta crash for sure.
Ymmv
I'm outta luck on the cold crashing. The last beer I transferred, the beer disconnect got plugged a few times from a rogue hop pellet here and there. I think that was more on me not doing a dump first before the transfer to kegs.
I also had moved the butterfly valve above the elbow, so that may have played a role as well. With the elbow below the valve instead of above it, the trub level becomes closer to the racking arm since the lower portion of the trub wouldn't be in the elbow. Now that I've added a sight glass, and in effect lowered the position of the valve, I'm hoping I won't have that issue again.
I'm going to dry hop with about 6oz in this batch too. Since I still have plenty of brew on tap, I'll just let this one sit a little longer in the fermenter if it means it may allow the hops to drop out of suspension a little more.
CodeSection
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I really do not see the advantage of having the butterfly valve above the elbow. If you look at other home brew and commercial conicals, they show the valve after the 90 degree elbow (SSB, MB, Stout, Brewer HW, to name a few). There are too many commercial manufactures to list. One would think if there was a true benefit with your set-up, the conical manufactures would be selling them with that type of set-up. Just saying.....
I know you have been experiencing problems with dumping trub/yeast. I have used various yeast ranging from low to high flocculation properties. When I first use a new yeast, I still follow my same process and learn how that yeast flocculates by the dumping itself and measuring the volume. Personally, since you are blowing through the trub/yeast when dumping, I think your process needs refining, not necessarily rearranging the 90 degree elbow. But whatever works for you, go with that.
Never-the-less, sticking with a process will make it easier to dial in recipes. Just be sure to document volumes, etc.
You may have already mentioned this, but you say you cannot crash?
I don't mean to he an acehole, but honestly man, that may be the root of all your issues.
If i was you, i would focus on that as my next purchase. Temp coils & glycol (diy or store bought)/ice chest with frozen water bottles. Or a ferm chamber of some kind- old fridge, etc.
The ability to crash is, imo, the #1 solution to your issues above.
I brewed yesterday and was having trouble with my hop screen so I let my whirlpool hops swim. Transferred at 74F and let it chill about 4 hours to 67F and dumped a half gallon of trub and pitched. Not rocking yet this morning so I dumped another quart or so. Next dump will be when I harvest the yeast.
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