Where are you located?
Madison, WI
Where are you located?
Does anyone want to buy my Braumeister 50L? I would sell it at a discount, along with my upgraded ball valve and quick disconnect, and thermal jacket. I'm thinking of downsizing to a smaller braumeister or getting the breweasy system from blichmann. Oh, and I also have the shortened mash pipe in addition to the regular one, allowing you to brew 5 gallon batches.
Looks VERY nice, much easier to understand, and hopefully operate, too. Makes me want to do a trade in!
Can someone helpa brewer out? What is the distance from the bottom of the 20l malt pipe to the ridge where the malt screen rests?
Thanks in advance, I do appreciate it!
i can measure this for you once i'm home, i stopped checking this thread regularly when the braumeisters forum started, i suggest checking in over there as you will get a lot more info
https://forum.braumeisters.net
Thanks I appreciate it; I looked over there too without much success. Perhaps my Google-fu just isn't strong enough!
So lately I have been only achieving 61-63% efficiency with my 20L. My crush is good with some powder. I sparge with 3L of water after I lift the malt pipe. I only end with slightly shy of 5 gallons going into fermenter and start the process filling to the top hash mark.
My last one I did instead of a single infusion I tried a protein rest just to see if that would help but nada. I check the temps during the process and all the temps are hit.
Any other suggestions or questions other then adjusting the recipe for the shoddy efficiency?
edit... I also sparge with only hot tap water and do not heat it up to 170. FYI
Are you starting your mash with the correct amount of water? I tend to go slightly a smidge over the recommended amount just to make sure I'm adding enough to the fermenter at the end. However, yesterday I did a brew and nailed my gravity 1.055 spot on and had 74% Efficiency ATB (according to beersmith). by the way, I sparged at 170 w/approximately 2.5l
So lately I have been only achieving 61-63% efficiency with my 20L.
I would disagree Robert on the sparge temperature. Sugar solutions get more viscous the warmer they are. Cold water will leave sugars behind, stuck to the grains/husks. If you're having low efficiency, and are sparging with water that is under 165, that's the first adjustment I would make and see how it impacts your numbers.
That said, I have no idea how significant the real world difference is between 115-120F hot tap water (which is my estimate based on your post), and something at 165-170F. There should be one in theory, but it might be small.
So lately I have been only achieving 61-63% efficiency with my 20L. My crush is good with some powder. I sparge with 3L of water after I lift the malt pipe. I only end with slightly shy of 5 gallons going into fermenter and start the process filling to the top hash mark.
My last one I did instead of a single infusion I tried a protein rest just to see if that would help but nada. I check the temps during the process and all the temps are hit.
Any other suggestions or questions other then adjusting the recipe for the shoddy efficiency?
edit... I also sparge with only hot tap water and do not heat it up to 170. FYI
What mill gap size are you using for your crush?
The general consensus amongst the BM owners on the Braumeisters forum is that a gap setting of 1.2mm (3/64") gives the best efficiencies.
Yes, just checked the gap is at 1.2mm.
I did efficiency based on Brewers friend online calculator to determine my potential and actual. It was on par with what beersmith was reporting.
At the end of my mash even with extra 3L water to sparge, after boil I have just under 5 gallons going into the bucket. If I were not to sparge I am afraid my volume would not be adequate. And I fill up to top hash mark before dough-in.
If I get the 50l can I brew 5 gallons batches and just not us top up water and DME? Would this allow me to get a beer above 1.065.
I usually make 6.5 gallons of wort and transfer 5.5 into the fermentor. Does anyone know what the concentrated boil volume is on the 50L.
I have had the 10 litre version for a few years now.
Sorry for the multiple forum post!
Hi all,
I am really looking into getting one of these two systems, but I am trying to figure out which configuration I would like to get. I currently do 2.5 gallon batches and do not plan anytime in the near future to scale up to 5 gallon batches (for two reason, 1) I don't need that much of one beer and 2) I HATE bottling 5 gallons of beer and do not plan on going back to kegging anytime soon). So I am trying to make the decision between getting to 20L version with the short malt pipe to brew 10L batches or just getting the 10L version by itself. The only reason to get the 20L version for me is the rare occasion I would like to do a bigger beer without needing to use DME/LME or other sugars to boost the SG. Plus, the 20L version has a more powerful pump and a 2000W element, which means to me faster boiling time and more vigorous boil. However, I love the tiny size of the 10L and it's obviously a little cheaper. Anybody have any experience with this issue and can provide some insight? Thanks in advance!
- Jason
don't this is going to work, my evaporation rate is 0.9 US gallons per hour so you would have to wait over an extra 2 hours to reduce by 2 gallons, also the water/grist ratio would be well outside the normal range
Will this power cord work for the 20l BM?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WJODBW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Hi, I have a 50L braumeister although i've not yet used the 50L malt pipe as I've just been using the 25L (only 3 brews so far) but have been playing around with recipe's on beersmith so this is just a guesstimate.
The 3 brews i have done withe the 25L malt pipe have ended up as follows:
Amber Ale: 30L mash in, 4.82KG grain, 4L sparge, 23L into fermenter, OG 1.047.
Butser Bitter: 30L mash in, 4.42KG grain, 12L Sparge, 30L into fermenter, OG 1.036.
Wheat Beer: 27.5 mash in, 5.00KG grain, 10L sparge, 25L into fermenter, OG 1.044 (missed target should have been 1.047)
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