...Mods?
Proud new owner of a used 20L BM!
Proud new owner of a used 20L BM!
I've been reading this thread for over a year and the right opportunity presented itself two weeks ago.
It just arrived last night, so I've only been able to run a test with water, but everything went well. Unfortunately, first brew day won't be until Monday.
This is not really a mod...but close enough.
After struggling a few times with hops (pellets) getting stuck in the tap which comes as standard with the Braumeister, I decided I had to do something about it (so tired of trying to clear the tap from stuck hops when transferring to the fermentor and losing a few liters of wort).
So I bought myself the ball lock valve from Speidel which has the same 3/4 thread as the standard tap.
From MoreBeer I bought a Stainless - 1.5" TC x 3/4" Female BSPP, a 1.5 Tri-Clap connector, a Stainless - 1.5" TC x 1" Barb and some gaskets and O-rings. Expensive to order from Sweden, but hopefully well worth it!
This wont only solve the hops getting stuck in the tap but also speed up the transfer to the fermentor.
Please note that I use the 20 liter version of the Braumeister. I have not successfully been able to create a Whirlpool due to the dimension of the Braumeister. So the only way for me to get rid of hops and some break material is to strain the wort. Works really well as long as the hops doesnt get stuck in the tap
/Anton
If you are using a range/oven 4 prong outlet and plug you will find a black hot wire, a red hot wire, a white neutral and a bare ground. The black and red wires each carry 120volts. Because they are out of phase each acts as the others neutral. The white neutral acts in tandem with the supplied 120 volts to supply just 120volts to run things such as a clock, timer, electronic controls etc. To wire the Speidel cord you do not use the white neutral. It's important that the yellow/green wire in the Speidel cord is wired to the bare copper ground. The other 2 wires in the Speidel cord get wire to the 120 volt lines. You can test your cord with a volt meter. With one probe in the bottom slot of the Speidel plug place the other probe in one of the top slots. You should get 120 volts. Move to the other top slot and you should still get 120 Volts. If you place both probes in one each of the top slots you should get 240 volts.
Hm.. I followed these directions and if i put them both in the top holes i get 240v.. but if i put on on the top and one on the bottom i get 33v in one and 40v in the other.. any ideas?
i used this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014KO11O/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 which fits my dryer plug
Anyone ever try a Schmitz Decoction mash with this system? Is it possible to boil grains in this system?
This is a basic Schmitz decoction schedule i think might work. Dough in at 122, raise to 150 and hold for 15 min, drain most liquid into another pot or cooler and keep temp around 150, boil mash for 30 min, cool down mash to about 160 then add liquid back in and hold mash at 155 for 30 min.
No - but with step mashing and a bit of melanoidin malt, I think that only very few people can tell the difference between that and a decoction mashed beer. Plus an automated step mash saves A LOT of time ;-)
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While I agree that one can build a system for less money, I strongly disagree with the "material handler" comment. If that were true, anyone who has built a system with automation is no longer truly a brewer, nor are many commercial microbreweries. The brewer still controls the recipe, the ingredients, the mash parameters, and everything on the cold side.
The Braumeister makes the realization of the mash schedule easier (time and temperature), provides an excellent brewing system in a small footprint, and makes for easier cleanup due to fewer vessels. Sure, the capacity is limited by the size of the unit, but that is true in any system. It looks to me like in the 20l system one will have to mash to yield a more concentrated wort, then add make-up water. I am unclear as to how large a grain bill will fit in the tube, and I suspect that really high-gravity brews are out, or will yield less than 20l. So your point regarding flexibility is well taken, but due to capacity issues rather than automation or single-vessel design. However, if the OP understands those constraints and is not concerened about them, then more power to him.
Hey, I can prepare beef wellington and spend a good portion of the day doing it, employing a knife, cutting board, food processor, mixing bowl, rolling pin, and roasting pan. But there are also plenty of outstanding dishes I can prepare in a single pan, dutch oven, or crock pot.
nevermind.. fixed it. i guess on that cable the green was neutral and the white was ground
switching the white (from dryer plug) to the green/yellow (from braumeister) fixed it
Received my BM direct from Germany this week. I think Customs F'd up. There was NO packaging on top of the kettle. Must have been tossed on the box's top side which bent a leg and caused some kinks in the bottom of the kettle. Speidel said they would make it right. Silll, such a L O N G wait and it comes in damaged.
How long is the power cable? Thinking about a location to brew, wondering how long it is or if it can beer lengthened..
By the way, did you but e yours in October? Seems like there was a special then..
If you're looking to buy, you might want to wait till after the first of the year and get the newer model.
It comes with new functionalities like mash schedule memory (10) and network connectivity. The software will be upgradable by the user.What has changed about the control box, just the appearance?
I have some questions on the 20L Braumeister if anyone could help answer:
I take delivery next week...
1. what is the smallest batch I can brew? 2Gallon, 3gallon? Just wondering in case I want to get in some inexpensive practice rounds..
2. I use Beersmith and I downloaded a profile of a 20l Braumeister set up. I noticed that the step mash time that was loaded in the mash profile was very loooong. Is this necessary for every brew? What are logical step mash profiles?
3. Has anyone really landed on the 'perfect all-round' equipment & Mash profile for Beersmith? Seems like a lot of variations out there, just kind of wondering which one to use, where to start and to go to find it...
I am sure I will have many more questions, so please be patient with me as I ramp up my learnings!
thanks...
Does anyone want to buy my Braumeister 50L? I would sell it at a discount, along with my upgraded ball valve and quick disconnect, and thermal jacket. I'm thinking of downsizing to a smaller braumeister or getting the breweasy system from blichmann. Oh, and I also have the shortened mash pipe in addition to the regular one, allowing you to brew 5 gallon batches.
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