Leo, that BM looks so tiny! are you sure it's the 50L version?
Question for you owners.
I noticed today while looking inside the pump that the brown coating seems to be flaking off? It is hard to see in the picture but have any of you experienced this? Is it bad?
After reading all these posts for several days I made a radical change in course.
I am getting ready to make my first foray into AG brewing. I did not want to WASTE money by getting intermediate products, like a picnic cooler mash tun when I ultimately would get a high quality system.
I was going to buy all the elements for building my own single tier beer brewing sculpture, including pumps, sparge arm, burners, and so on, but then this thread changed my mind. Alas, Blichmann has lost out.
This system is so simple I think I can actually brew in the house and have time to enjoy the process. So I pulled the trigger and ordered today when I got my "now in stock" email from MoreBeer. (They just came in, btw.)
A few things:
I don't want to cut the cord off - I would like to make a conversion cord so I can plug one end into the BM and the other into my modern dryer outlet at 220v. I have not seen clearly how this can be done.
I ordered the insulating Jacket: I hope this helps the boil time. I see all kinds of add-ons for the screens: is this really necessary?
I really debated the 50L vs the 20L, but I think the simplicity and ease of the 20L will be worth it. I want to experiment with many kinds of beer, but I really don't want to drink so much I get fat and lazy! The small batches will be fine - and I can always make more!
Thanks for all the info so far!
So I can just buy this cord and plug into a 220 v dryer outlet?
http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=AP9871
If so, at this price they should include the cord.
Standard Electric entry and panels in North America are 120/240v. Most houses have a 200A entrance and panel. 240v is used for everything that needs it, and 120v plugs and wiring are far less cumbersome than those used in most of Europe - not to mention the relative safety of 120v.
It's nice NOT to have the potential overloading issues I often experienced with an inadequate entrance/panel capacity when I lived in several European countries.
Is anyone having trouble with the flow rate through the malt pipe?
I'm glad to say that I got my new BM20L via FedEx! The corners were banged up on the box, so I wanted to open it and make sure it was okay - based on experience from some others here with damage. I started to open the box before signing for it, and she yanked the box back and rudely informed me she would say I refused deliver unless I signed BEFORE opening it. In my experience with shipping, once you sign the bill of lading you are saying it was received in GOOD condition and it is your problem. Apparently FedEx has a policy about not peaking into the box before signing. Apparently this would slow down their drivers. However, there is some other damage form you can claim if it turns out damaged. I guess another options would be to look at the beat up package, call it damaged, and then they will HAVE to look inside to verify. I had to pay a lot of shipping to Alaska, so I certainly did not want to send it back without checking for damage.
Despite the box, the item was in good condition upon opening. I see they have done a better job with packing and everything was secured so it would not dent and rub! I just have to find a way to rig the cord now so I can use it!
The flow rate might be a bit on the low side if you use the maximum amount of malt (6 kg in the 20L BM). But that's nothing I worry about too much - as long as it flows.
I have also noted that it's sometimes hard to see the flow rate (especially before the wort clears up). It might be easier to check the sides of the malt pipe to check the flow rate.
What happens is the gasket at the bottom of the malt pipe doesn't seal well and you get poor flow.
I assume you mean that the gasket at the bottom of the malt pipe raised up (moved upwards from its position)?
Yeah, I got that part. Actually, the "malt tube" was a "grain bucket" in my mind...
My point is that, once you got the malt tube hanging over the MLT (the Mash Lauter Tun, the big pot), the sparge water has to be sprinkled slowly over the grain bed. I don't see how you can do that manually, with just a pot of 170*F water.
As for temp, I haven't measured often, but the one time I did, the temp was only 1C lower at top of pipe vs display indication. I did do it right after taking lid off; about near the end of the mash.
That is pretty accurate!
Do you have the 20L or the 50L?
Do you mash with the insulation around the BM?
There is a temp drop - agree with CJ. I am also not too happy with the intensity of the boil.
Will be getting a jacket for my 20L.
I have the same issue on a 50L. I noticed it after my first brewing session...Question for you owners.
I noticed today while looking inside the pump that the brown coating seems to be flaking off? It is hard to see in the picture but have any of you experienced this? Is it bad?
I have also noted an upwards difference in temperature from the target. This phenomenon mostly occurs when mashing in (and when mashing in directly at the saccharification rest).
For example, if adding the grains to water which is 66 degrees Celsius, the temperature will rapidly rise 3-4 degrees Celsius above the target temperature.
So if adding grains to a water temperature of 66 degrees Celsius, the temperature would rise to about 69 degrees – then going back to 66 in steps of about 1 degree per minute.
So the wrong mash temperature will be kept for about 3-4 minutes.
I think the above is more likely to happen with bigger grain bills (6 kg). I think this could be caused by the fact that the grains itself is isolating the heat and the temperature probe and that the heat coil is located outside the malt pipe.
When adding the grains the water temperature is lowered which the temperature probe reacts to and starts to heat the water (outside the malt pipe) to meet the correct temperature. But since the water isn't recirculated at this point no "real" adjusment is made to the total water temperature.
When the circulation starts – the heated water (now 3-4 degrees above the target temperature) rises the total water temperature.
But when typing this I'm not sure if the BM keeps the temperature while adding the grains (but I'm sure it does!).
Does anyone else have similar experiences?
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