NaymzJaymz
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys that's what I was hoping to hear!!
I jab it into the slant but not all the way to the bottom. Streaks of yeast will grow everywhere the clip has touched, each a colony from only a few cells.
I keep having issues with some water on top of my media in the slant after the autoclave. I am using the 7/1/1.5% to 100ml (I think those are the proportions) recipe with powdered agar agar.
Any ideas?
Assuming your slants aren't leaking and letting water in, this is normal. I make up a bunch at a time and store in the fridge until I need them, then take them out to warm up I put it on its top. After its warm and when I'm ready to use I open it and let the water drip out before inoculating. I haven't had any problems.
Thanks for this thread! Getting yeast strains here is a huge pain in the ass and anything I can do to propagate and stretch out the useful life of what I can get here is a huge benefit to me.
I'm sure this has been answered, but I wanted to confirm. The viles that you get the White labs yeast in can be used for slanting correct? I'm sure they can handle it just want to make sure.
I'm sure this has been answered, but I wanted to confirm. The viles that you get the White labs yeast in can be used for slanting correct? I'm sure they can handle it just want to make sure.
I've wondered the same thing, since I have so many hanging around, and some plastics are autoclavable, but like a previous poster said, they're pretty big. If I had a junky pressure cooker I could toss out if the vials melted, I'd experiment with them, but I'm just not gonna risk it.
Price-wise, the 24ml vials with autoclavable caps from Cynmar are 10 bucks a dozen. The hardest part for me was getting my order up to their $25 minimum. Shipping was pricey, but for 24 vials, a nichrome loop and an alcohol lamp, it was $35 including shipping. Worth not risking messing up my pressure cooker with melted vials!
^ That is a good test.
Yes, they are soda preforms. I've seen them for sale on Amazon.
White Labs must sterilize them too. If they don't use an autoclave in the packaging line, then what would they be using? UV? Chlorine dioxide?
My guess would not be chlorine dioxide because of chemical residue. UV potentially. I bet you could email them at white labs to find out. It just seems that autoclave is the preferred sterilization technique for biological assays, which is exactly what we're all basically doing when trying to wrangle and ranch yeast.
Since this topic has been revived, here's an issue I've been wrestling with. Perhaps someone here can offer a suggestion.
How do you get the slant out of the vial after you're done with it and want to clean and re-use the vial? I've run them through my dishwasher (which gets hot enough to sanitize things), but it still leaves chunks of agar in the vials (albeit deformed). What's the easiest way to get the spent slant completely out of the vials so they can be re-slanted?
How do you get the slant out of the vial after you're done with it and want to clean and re-use the vial?
Can Dextrose be used as for yeasts' nutrition instead of DME in the growth medium?
Glucose, Dextrose (D-Glucose) is the yeasties beasties growth nutriment of choice so I think it will work.
I have some Dextrose lying around and I'm not too keen on spending extra for the DME.
LovesIPA said:I use a long, slender kitchen tool - like a chopstick - and cut the slant up into four pieces inside the vial. One good shake over the sink and they come out pretty easily. Then I fill the vial and cap up with hot water and sprinkle in a tiny bit of oxyclean. They come out super clean.
If I have a bunch I'll put them in a glass container, fill the container all the way up to the top so the vials are all completely submerged, then put it in the microwave for a couple of minutes to boil and dissolve the agar. Then dump and rinse.
I wouldn't use dextrose for the same reason I wouldn't use it in a starter. You want the yeast to acclimate themselves to metabolize maltose and the nutrients in wort. They will perform better when you ask them to metabolize something that they're used to.
How are you planning on growing each slant culture up to enough yeast to pitch for a batch if you won't use malt extract?
I save runnings from a mash as my starter liquid. You can always save another liter or two from a mash. Unless your system is super efficient.
LovesIPA said:You can do that if you brew often enough, but I don't have a regular schedule. It might be 4 days before I brew again, or it might be two weeks.
It's not a good idea to leave even boiled wort around longer than a day or two. Boiling doesn't kill everything. That's why the slants are boiled in a pressure cooker.
kukubau said:I can't seem to find anyone in my country to sell me glass vials in small quantities, only at least 100 pcs. and up and at an astronomic price, $400 for 100 20 ml/6 dram tubes. I'm willing to pay you guys upfront for the glass vials and shipping, through paypal or check. Will you help me? My only accessible alternative are the polypropylene/plastic vials, which I'm reluctant in using them.
kukubau said:I can't seem to find anyone in my country to sell me glass vials in small quantities, only at least 100 pcs. and up and at an astronomic price, $400 for 100 20 ml/6 dram tubes. I'm willing to pay you guys upfront for the glass vials and shipping, through paypal or check. Will you help me? My only accessible alternative are the polypropylene/plastic vials, which I'm reluctant in using them.
Use this service: http://www.shipito.com/?id_affiliate=2044
Autoclavable is what you want. Pressure cooker is just like an autoclave.
I know. I'm just saying I don't like the term "autoclavable" used for the pressure cooker. I used to work with autoclaves back in uni. and they're nothing alike.
.
Sure, one is less than $100 and the other is more than $2000. I have never seen a product labeled "pressure cookerable", so we are stuck looking for "autoclavable". You may know the differences but we shouldn't confuse newer brewers reading this trying to figure this stuff out.
We shouldn't.
I like it how "pressure cookerable" sounds.
As I understand it, pressure cookers are not quite as effective as a true pressure canner. From what I've read, pressure cookers only get up to around 12 psi. Pressure canners get up to 15 psi, which is better for truly sterilizing the contents.
So I may have missed something in the many pages here, but the original post says to set the canner to 12 psi. Are you saying this won't work? It doesn't matter in my case, because my cooker specifies it gets to 15 psi, 250F, but I am still curious.
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