Nice build! i am currently trying to figure out my panel mount and was wondering how sturdy yours is? I see that i can get one of those mounts for about $15 on ebay.
...snip... (As far as Carmelizing or burning sugars in the drain piping (right on the flame) ) On the BK, I resolve this problem by whirlpooling during the entire boil. I have a 90` angle mounted 3/4 of the way up the keggle and return the wort to the BK making it spin down to the drain. My drain in the BK is set 1" above the bottom (dead middle pointing up) so the trub surrounds the drain but doesnt go in it.. I love it! ...snip...
I have 50 feet of Copper coil in the HLT.. Its an Old converted I/Chiller. I also recirculate the water in the HLT from Top to Bottom drain and getting it whilpooling pretty good with an angle fitting on the water in side. Prevents stratification.That all looks very cool, what are you using for your HERMS, is there a coil in on of the keggles? I'm just starting a single tier build and I'm curious what other folks are doing.
you mean the 1.5" Square tube for the stand? That was about $80 at will call. and even at that I have 6 feet left overwhat did the box tubing run?
I think your referring to "Cavitation" where as the liquid boils the release of oxygen in the fluid causes the pump to spin without pushing the liquid? Yes I do as well. But Ive got it minimized..for a couple reasons, I get the whirlpool going while the wort is filling the BK. As Long as I keep it flowing full speed, it seems to be ok. Once in a while though the boil will get too much air in the suction line and spin the pump a little but it usually gets going again no prob. I wish I knew what that Float thing (you linked) was or how it worked? I do have bottom drains on my kettles and my pumps are about 20" below the kettles, with a 12/6 orientation. The burps do help but I only need those to get started and only sometimes. also FWIW, I am using the new HF March pumps from B3. they are supposed to have less cavitation issues.. so maybe thats why i have fewer probs.. check out what they say about it here http://morebeer.com/view_product/11622//March_High_Temperature_Brewing_Pump_-_High_FlowDo you have trouble with vapor lock / pump priming when you do this? I begin pumping in my whirlpool chiller with 15 minutes left in the boil (to sanitize the pump and hose) and I've struggled with pump priming. I have to turn the burner down to get it to prime and then when I turn the burner back up it starts vaporizing in the silicone hose. The issue appears to be the low pressure (suction) generated by the pump and the water/sugar mixture at its boiling point, I think the wort is just boiling within the plumbing. Just curious how you deal with this. Maybe your 'burp' valves help? I've been considering one of these, but I'm worried about it sticking/jamming with the wort...
Cheers!
No not stainless. Its all mild Steel.. Cant remember what guage. But its very strong$80 for 40' of 304 stainless??
I wish I knew what that Float thing (you linked) was or how it worked? I do have bottom drains on my kettles and my pumps are about 20" below the kettles, with a 12/6 orientation. The burps do help but I only need those to get started and only sometimes. also FWIW, I am using the new HF March pumps from B3. they are supposed to have less cavitation issues.. so maybe thats why i have fewer probs.. check out what they say about it here http://morebeer.com/view_product/11622//March_High_Temperature_Brewing_Pump_-_High_Flow
I have a March 815 and the new HF from More Beer. Externally they are identical.. its the impeller they changed. Its supposed to prevent cavitation. Running them both side by side I can say the HF does do a better job..fwiw, I'm pretty sure the Morebeer "exclusive" pump is a March 815-PL. I have a pair of them...
Cheers!
it works great.. I have a trash can that fits right under it. I had to make a retainer for the False bottom so it stays in the keg upside downHow well does that dump work? Will it flip the whole rig over if there's t enough weight on top?
Here's what Ive got basically. Need any more?? LMK
Just remember: My rail (Deck) design is so that the Kettle sits right on the edges.. (The Mash tun is a pretty normal distance apart)
make sure this is what you want befor you use these plans. My Heat shields go all the way up and under the Keggle, so no flame can escape the sides or burn my stand. Gasses escape in the rear
michaellcoates said:Thank you so much. Is there any part of the design that you would do differently IE the height up the frame? I plan to throw in a MT burner just in case I ever want to direct heat. I love the edge frame design and your heat flow set up looks very efficient. I wish I would have thought of the bottom drain before I welded in my drains to all three keggles on the sides, regardless it will still work.
Also, if the rail is placed properly, do you think this system could support 50 gallon kettles or is the LP gas too inefficient for that size? Thanks!
Bobby_M said:It's probably to force the element on rather than control with the PID. Manual "mode" on the PID would still require the auto mode on the switch.
I have a March 815 and the new HF from More Beer. Externally they are identical.. its the impeller they changed. Its supposed to prevent cavitation. Running them both side by side I can say the HF does do a better job..
Here's a link to one thread on the differences and upgrading to it, if you wish to.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/can-i-upgrade-typical-march-pump-hf-213577/
Cheers!!
the 315 is an 809. 315 is MoreBeer's part # and 809 is March's #. The new 315HF pump (it is an upgraded 809, go look at The link again.) has a bigger impeller I was able to easily recirc a mild boil (simmer) without cavitation. My system has an old 809 (315) and the new upgraded 809 like you have. (315HF).My pumps are the Morebeer H315HF, I bought them from Morebeer.
And I'm still pretty sure they're the March 815 pumps by any name.
Btw, that link was to upgrade an 809HS...
Cheers!
The mash dump. Obviously I need a shorter trash can.
Yea Im gonna poke around and see what shorter can would work, since this thing can go reverse vertical.. :cross:My old rig had a similar dump setup. I made a "hoe" that had a blade cut to the same radius as the inside of the keg with a handle about 3 feet long with a "T" handle on the end. This worked great for getting the spent grain out of the tun quickly. My tun didn't lay over as far as yours & I attached a chute to keep the grain from falling into the upper skirt area.
I made the hoe from SS scrap and the blade was made from a small, cheap plastic cutting board but wood would work well too. The chute was SS but I suppose something similar could be made from a plastic bucket or any sheet metal.
It looks like a shorter trash can in your case will work fine....
motobrewer said:how do you like the camlocks? any pics of how your mash tun is configured?
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