Single-Tier Brewstand Prototype

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reddskinnfan

reddskinnfan

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I have been toying with the idea of building a new brewstand.

First, I had a 3-tier made out of slotted angle iron. HLT up top, Coleman cooler MT in middle and BK on bottom. It was good for what it was, but I wanted more (as we always do).

Next was a single-tier that had a 3 burner setup. It was good, but was a little too wide and not very functional (worked great for brewing on not so windy days, but wasn't very functional when it came to storage).

I sold the last one to a guy on HBT and decided to build a new one, WITH UPGRADES!!!

My requirements:

Store pots and brewstand together
Move to a HERMS system (gas-fired)
Add wind guards to burners
Streamline gas plumbing
Move to a 20" plate chiller
Insulate MT to keep stable temps

So, I started building.

Here are a few pics. This is a work in progress, as I am welding it myself.

Also threw in a few pics of MT with Pico FB and insulation.

Enjoy!!

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How many layers of refletix and do you think you can still put heat under it if ever needed? I am switching to a "budget" e-HERMs and still want to wrap my MT to keep things in check (and may need to throw heat under it if something goes wrong). The colder it gets in the garage it's tough to keep temps stable I have found.
 
30Bones said:
How many layers of refletix and do you think you can still put heat under it if ever needed? I am switching to a "budget" e-HERMs and still want to wrap my MT to keep things in check (and may need to throw heat under it if something goes wrong). The colder it gets in the garage it's tough to keep temps stable I have found.
Click to expand...

One on each side of some recycled denim insulation (R - value of 6.7).

Got both from Home Depot, but the recycled denim insulation requires being ordered online.
 
reddskinnfan said:
One on each side of some recycled denim insulation (R - value of 6.7).

Got both from Home Depot, but the recycled denim insulation requires being ordered online.
Click to expand...


Thanks. I did three layers tonight, even got the lid layered up


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
Stand looks really tall. I wanted to go with a store the keggles under design so I could throw a piece of plywood or an old door on top to use as a workbench when not in use, but built a shorter stand so I can easily see inside. Trade off I guess.

Build is looking great. What burners will you be using?
 
30Bones said:
Stand looks really tall. I wanted to go with a store the keggles under design so I could throw a piece of plywood or an old door on top to use as a workbench when not in use, but built a shorter stand so I can easily see inside. Trade off I guess.

Build is looking great. What burners will you be using?
Click to expand...

Actually, the stand is 36", without casters. With brewpots on top (23" tall) and casters (2-3", depending on type and how I mount them), it would be 62" to the top of a pot. That's just a few inches over 5' tall. That leaves plenty 33" of space between top and bottom crossbeams (23" for pots and 10" for burners and wind guards).

I will be using BG-14 burners (Amazon.com usually has cheapest price, if you have a Prime membership) and wind guards (Brewershardware.com)
 
I got my BG-14's off overstock.com for a little less (free shipping too) and the next day I got an email from Amazon for the same price on prime of $43. Looks like they are still that price.

Brewershardware mounts/guards are nice! There are pics of my setup in my sig. If you need any help let me know. Sounds like you got it covered.
 
30Bones said:
I got my BG-14's off overstock.com for a little less (free shipping too) and the next day I got an email from Amazon for the same price on prime of $43. Looks like they are still that price.

Brewershardware mounts/guards are nice! There are pics of my setup in my sig. If you need any help let me know. Sounds like you got it covered.
Click to expand...

Agrisupply and BayouClassicDepot also sell them for cheaper sometimes. Just gotta keep your eyes on the sites to see if one drops lower than $40. I got mine from Amazon for $35/shipped.
 
My welds are starting to look prettier and prettier (also functional).

Mind you, these are with gas - shielded flux core wire, not solid wire, so there is a little more splatter, but hella-penetration.

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Looks a little "thick" but I'm no expert and this is just a beer stand after all. My friend did 90% of the welding on mine since I haven't welded in 10 years and it showed


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
Yeah, it is standing up a little, but penetration is right and no blow through. Will work on flattening out a bit, but the important part is good weld.
 
So, lately life has gotten in the way, but I have all but finished the first set of pots and the stand. I just need to mount burners, casters and plumbing on this one.

I think the first stand already found a home and I am working on a modified version for me (some slight tweaks from lessons learned and a little different approach on storage of keggles). I have already started welding it and will post some pics in the next week or so (weather permitting). I also need to get out and get another tank of welding gas mix.

All in all, welding is much more involved than I originally thought, but it VERY rewarding. Have had a chance to test both MIG and flux-cored and both have advantages/disadvantages.

Anyway, stay tuned!

Afro, I sent you an email.

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Ouch. I think I will take some bits o steel and play around with the stick welder my dad has. It is a little bit (okay, a lotta bit) old, but supposedly works.
 
AfroHopster said:
easier said than done. it was 1500 when I looked it's a hobby not a job.
Click to expand...

as an adult continuing ed class? I'm in one now for 400 bucks. Have to figure in materials, gas, wire, stuff you are actually learning on, electricity, etc.
 
(redacted)fan said:
Okay, the first stand was a prototype and was given to a friend for his setup. I have since started a second stand, with some slight modifications (height, width and lower frame).

Here are some pics.

What do you think?
Click to expand...

Looks good, man!
 
Question -- is there a reason why you put caps on the pump ports?

Only reason I ask is because I always leave all my valves wide open after brewing, to allow full drying of all components, including pumps. Just seems like it's an easy way to keep moisture from being trapped in. Now, a place where I know a cap would come in handy is if I'm brewing an 11+ gal batch of something and need to cap off the port for my whirlpool arm, as the wort is higher than the port.

Anyways, nice work there. I'm ever-so-slowly building a Brutus 10 system that I hope to have finished by early summer. So far I've just been gathering the smaller components (burners, pilot lights, gas soledoids, PIDs, etc). My next big step is to get the brewstand built in early March.
 
Only for after things are dry and are being put away (storage). I take my pump head, and chiller, off my rig after each batch to thoroughly clean and dry.
 
reddskinnfan said:
Only for after things are dry and are being put away (storage). I take my pump head, and chiller, off my rig after each batch to thoroughly clean and dry.
Click to expand...

Damn, that's some dedication.

Right after I've racked to carboy from my kettle (through pump + CFC), I fill a kettle with 2 gals of starsan'd water and run it through the pump + CFC for a few secs onto the ground, and then once it's running clear I start recirculating it, for about a minute at most. Then I just disconnect and let gravity drain everything out (though I give it a blow to help get things started).

Then shortly before a brew is done on brewday, I run some quick starsan-water through it.

I've never bothered to take my pump head off. How often would you say they truly need more than just a circulation-clean?
 

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