A couple of notes on your parts list.
-To my knowledge you won't be able to use the banjo burners with any automated gas valve that includes a pilot light/thermocouple. The Banjo burners are for high pressure propane and the gas valves like you'd find on a furnace or hot water heater are all for low pressure. You'd need to use a burner like
this. Note that I like the banjos due to how quiet they are. The low pressure burner is quite loud. Also The gas valves would need a low pressure regulator in front of them. the adjustable on on your list is for high pressure burners.
-Are you planning on using a lot of whole hops? if not then you probably don't need the false bottom in the boil kettle. Also I don't think you would want the mazimizer to pull from the center of the boil kettle either. That is where all the trub will settle after whirlpooling. I had a friend build me a hop filter like
this. I will be using it for the first time tomorrow on a Heady Topper clone.
I would definitely go with the valves at pex over what Granger has. A lot cheaper. The valve includes the thermocouple so you would need a pilot burner, a 24v transformer, and the pilot tubing to supply gas for the pilot from the gas valve to the pilot burner.
1/4" x 5' Pilot Burner Tubing w/ Fittings
SKU: 11-293Brand: Robertshaw
$6.65
Honeywell Q314A6094 Pilot Burner
SKU: Q314A6094Brand: Honeywell
$21.95
1/2", 24 Vac Standing Pilot Gas Valve
SKU: VR8200A2124Brand: Honeywell
$72.95
Transformer, 40VA, 60 Hz, 120V Primary, 24V Secondary, Foot Mount
SKU: 90-T40F1Brand: White Rodgers
$8.95
Note 1: there are potentially cheaper ways of creating a controlled burner using Asco valves but I personally went for standard burner valves for the safety they provide with the thermocouple. I know that others have rigged up multiple temp controllers, one to a thermocouple and one to an asco valve to add back that safety. That is what you'd need to do if you wanted to use the banjo burners. Let me know if you want me to dig a bit harder to see if I can find some more info on this. I couldn't specifically find the example I was looking for...
Note 2: I have not used the burner under my mash tun in years. Whenever I did I got bubbles in the pump and it would start cavitating. I heat my water in the HLT and transfer it in. Although I don't have temp control on my MLT burner... but still, I don't know if I would add that burner if I were building it today. I'm not sure what your process is like but you could certainly shave some cost by not automating the MLT or boil kettle burners.
Note 3: If I were doing it over again I would probably run a RIMS system instead of HERMS. I think that you would have a lot tighter control over temps. In fact I will likely upgrade at some point. It hasn't really been a huge issue to this point but I feel it would be better. Also there are some pre-built RIMS chambers on the market now that would make the build pretty easy. Options include these at
Brewers Hardware and the Blichmann RIMS rocket which I saw at NHC but do not see yet on his website.
