found that Video. Not me by the way. Culturing up Yeast from Packaged Beer - Conan yeast from Heady Topper
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYFp5ghf0wU
That's where I learned it... Don O!
found that Video. Not me by the way. Culturing up Yeast from Packaged Beer - Conan yeast from Heady Topper
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYFp5ghf0wU
Should be good then. If you don't see anything after 48 hours start thinking about a repitch. Chances are by tomorrow morning you'll have activity.
I'm using a Wilser bag (tight weave viole bag) for BIAB. Wanting to try this simple yeast reclamation method I wondered.....If I use a whirlfloc tablet to bind up those proteins last few minutes of the boil, would filtering the kettle output though the voile bag into the fermenter capture any significant amount?
Less trub in my yeast is better, but I assume whatever trub I have is what made it through the viole bag. The difference being the addition of the whirlfloc tab makes me wonder when it "binds" to the proteins if its then big enough to be captured. If so it would be simple to slip my viole hop sock over the hose when filling fermenter. Any BIAB'ers know?
My apologies if someone already asked this, but I'm wondering about the hops that are left in the trub. Will they negatively affect a new brew bitterness? For instance, is it OK to reuse trub from say an IPA and then ferment a stout with it? I've already read that washing the yeast doesn't necessarily remove the particles andvresins are usually soluble anyway, correct?
you won't be boiling any hops particulate from the yeast pitch, so it should not add any bitterness.
I know it would be minor if it did. I asked because dry hopping can add to bitterness levels (at least that is what I read), but probably at such a level that you wouldn't know? Just thought I would ask.
....Anyone else running into this? I've tried different water sources also. Most of the time it is liquid yeast (WLP001) but I had it happen once when I reused some US-05 in the same manner (as an experiment). I'm about ready to just use dry yeast and stop trying to harvest yeast.
It seems that more times than not when I reuse yeast with this method, I get a German Hefeweizen flavor to my beer. Sometimes it dissipates with time in the keg, others it does not.
I think I can now call this isoamyl acetate. This latest batch (the one pictured above that started off slow), I could definitely detect that it seemed closer to Banana. I watched this video and at 19:30 in the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXsu2LvlnG4 I found my answer.
My fermentation temps are usually at 64-66º so I think I can rule that out. What seems to be the common thread is that anytime I reuse liquid yeast, it can happen. More precisely using the no wash method.
Anyone else running into this? I've tried different water sources also. Most of the time it is liquid yeast (WLP001) but I had it happen once when I reused some US-05 in the same manner (as an experiment). I'm about ready to just use dry yeast and stop trying to harvest yeast.
I have. My last few batches have over attenuated and have a thin green applely taste to them.
I'm going to replace all my yeast, starting with the 1056 and 1968.
If your temperature is in the right range but fermentation is slow to start, underpitching could be the reason for the banana esters you're getting. Try increasing the amount of slurry, or better yet, make a small starter to freshen it up and produce new cells.
Could it be caused by too much grain/husks getting into the wort pre-boil? I am using the Grainfather and this was after 5 strains/scoops. I was getting about the same amount each time so I'm certain there is still plenty left in there that I can't see. The grain in the bottom of the sink is from the 4 prior scoops/sttrains.
My apologies if someone already asked this, but I'm wondering about the hops that are left in the trub. Will they negatively affect a new brew bitterness? For instance, is it OK to reuse trub from say an IPA and then ferment a stout with it? I've already read that washing the yeast doesn't necessarily remove the particles andvresins are usually soluble anyway, correct?
I see no problem in pitching this to a new batch but how about re-using at bottling time?
In using it for the same batch that it came from, would I have to make a small starter to re-activate the cells? It's been maybe a month since I harvested.
I have a quart mason jar filled almost midway. That seems like a bit much for bottling, yes?
Are you proposing adding yeast at bottling time?
Not necessary.
Cannot say that I have ever seen or heard of anyone who has done this.
Brewkinger,
Sorry if I missed it, but could you describe your yeast washing procedure?
I'm going to be making 3 batches of Kolsch with 3 slightly different grain bills. Once the first has been racked, I would like to wash the yeast, wait a week and brew again pitching 120ml of slurry without a starter in the next batch. Wash, rinse and repeat for the third.
Brewkinger,
Sorry if I missed it, but could you describe your yeast washing procedure?
I'm going to be making 3 batches of Kolsch with 3 slightly different grain bills. Once the first has been racked, I would like to wash the yeast, wait a week and brew again pitching 120ml of slurry without a starter in the next batch. Wash, rinse and repeat for the third.
I racked my beer yesterday and washed the yeast into 2 mason jars. Today I decided to brew, Do I need to bother making a starter or will it be fine to just pitch one of the jars? My OG is 1.048.
I have a case of 1/2 pint jars (8oz) that I'd rather use than my qrt jars if possible just because I can fit them more easily in my fridge. Is it realistic calculating @ 1.5b cells x 236 ml for 355b cells? Just curious because on the OP, Woodlandbrew estimates 300b cells in a pint, so should I estimate half the cells (150b) for a half pint?
I store in 1 pint mason jars, but never use more than half the jar... so first I'd say you're fine using the 1/2 pint jars. If my stored yeast is under a month old I direct pitch the required amount. If its older I make a vitality starter to referesh what I have and build new cells.
For my BIAB process I typically estimate at 1-1.25B cells per ml with 15% cell loss per month of storage, but that's just what works for me from observations. I recommend you go with the 1.5B/ml and observe what happens. If the yeast seems active in the jar, its probably healthy and with a high cell count too (1.5B+). If your fermentation kicks off really quickly (as in 4-10 hours) the same applies. Conversely, if you get a long lag phase, say 36-72 hours, then you either have unhealthy or insufficient cells. For good pitching rates of healthy yeast, I like to see fermentation activity in 12-24 hours.
I use 8 ounce mason jars for 5 gallon batches of ales and have lag times that are astounding sometimes. I'm amazed by how fast and vigorous the fermentations are with 8 ounces of trub from the previous batch, even if they were stored 2 or 3 months.
One thing I'm not yet clear on the density of the yeast in a jar. Say I follow the procedure - I stir up the yeast cake and pour it into 8 oz jars. In a few days it has settled into a dense yeast cake of some volume covered by beer for a total of 8oz. So is the volume that matters the 8oz I added to the jar I added to the jar in the first place or do I need to use multiple jars of dense settled yeast to get 8 oz total?
Yes, I'm probably over thinking this.
I pitched 250 ml of w34/70 frozen slurry into 3 gal of 1.037 wort yesterday afternoon at 60 f. I haven't seen any signs of activity yet. Trying to rdwhahb but it's difficult. First time that I've repitched from frozen.
It's going to take a few days to for that yeast to wake up. And 3 gallons is a lot of wort for amount of yeast. Just give it more time. You should see activity in a few days.
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