Simple PID control help.

[brandonring]

I'm looking for a little help wiring up my control box for my PID. I am looking to power only 1 5500w element from this box with 10/3 wire and 3 prong dryer inlets/outlets.

Here are my components:

MYPIN TD4-SNR & Fotek SSR 40DA
www.amazon.com/dp/B0087O6T10/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_P9ibxbH8SE5WA

IMAGE® PT100 RTD
www.amazon.com/dp/B0087O6RM6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_p6ibxbP5XNR5P

Uxcell Heat Sink for Solid SSR 10A-40A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ARBA02A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Utilitech 5500w element
www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-Water-Heater-Screw-Element/3693210

Project box (plastic ammo box)
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Plano-1312-00-Ammo-Can-OD/23247620

Toggle switch? (Not yet purchased)

This is for my hlt only to heat strike water. Id appreciate any diagram or suggestions you guys could provide. I'm not planning on using alarms unless otherwise suggested. I'm a carpenter by trade and usually leave electrical work to the professionals. I will have my work checked by an electrician before plugging in. I'd just like to have a good start before bothering him.

Thanks in advance.

 

[BeardedBrews]

I made almost exactly that, parts list in my sig.

 

[Bobby_M]

Since the PID supports an alarm anyway, it's very helpful and inexpensive. It will tell you when the strike water is ready to use so you don't have to keep checking. The RTD probe in the link is not a waterproof. What I mean is, it's not sealed between the smooth sheath and the metric bolt threads so that can't used as its own bulkhead with an added gasket. You'll either need a different probe or you'll have to pull the guts out of that one and insert it into a thermowell that is capable of weldless install.

 

[BeardedBrews]

Since the PID supports an alarm anyway, it's very helpful and inexpensive. It will tell you when the strike water is ready to use so you don't have to keep checking. The RTD probe in the link is not a waterproof. What I mean is, it's not sealed between the smooth sheath and the metric bolt threads so that can't used as its own bulkhead with an added gasket. You'll either need a different probe or you'll have to pull the guts out of that one and insert it into a thermowell that is capable of weldless install.

I used 2-part epoxy to seal the gap between the probe and the threaded sleeve. It worked, but I discovered that the inside of the sleeve was either not stainless, or prone to accumulating black gunk.

I have since upgraded to an actual 1/2NPT waterproof probe and am very happy with it. i just installed a T fitting on my pump.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M3SXI0Q/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[brandonring]

I made almost exactly that, parts list in my sig.

VERY nice. Looking at yours I may go with a 4 wire main plug and add an outlet for pumps etc. Looks exactly like what I'm shooting for. Anything you would change in retrospect? What's the cover on the back of your element? CPVC and epoxy?

 

[BeardedBrews]

VERY nice. Looking at yours I may go with a 4 wire main plug and add an outlet for pumps etc. Looks exactly like what I'm shooting for. Anything you would change in retrospect? What's the cover on the back of your element? CPVC and epoxy?

Yeah, a CPVC union (because I thought the color looked nice) that I filled with 2-part JB-Weld. I probably could have fit two packs of JB weld in the coupler, but honestly it just had to seal the wires.


Things I would (or did) change on the controller:

1. Temperature Probe - I upgraded to an actual NPT threaded 1/2" RTD / PT100. Since all you're doing is controlling the HLT it won't be as critical, but spend an extra $5 and get something that is easy to mount. I have found that unless I'm recirculating my strike water the temperature is not consistent top-to-bottom, you might want to add a recirculation port and pump.

2. Temperature Probe Connection - You might want to consider a disconnect for your temperature probe. There are three wires, so an XLR plug would work, or any male / female plug really. This would be nice if you have to take everything apart to store it.

3. Enclosure Options - This is related to #2. What I found is that I take my system apart much less often than I thought I would. Most of the time it stays hooked up in my garage basically ready to brew. If I had been thinking I would have permanently mounted the PID, Outlets, and Switches in my Brew Stand somehow. It would be nice to have the switches and PID up higher and closer to the valves, and the outlets and power cables hidden away in the back somewhere. You will have to decide for yourself on this one.

If this is the first electric addition to your system, and you don't have to have a portable solution, I would really suggest buying a panel big enough to add a second element later on. It won't hurt you to have too much room in the box, and probably only costs an extra $10-20 to buy a nice big enclosure from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UPA10Y/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[brandonring]

Yeah, a CPVC union (because I thought the color looked nice) that I filled with 2-part JB-Weld. I probably could have fit two packs of JB weld in the coupler, but honestly it just had to seal the wires.


Things I would (or did) change on the controller:

1. Temperature Probe - I upgraded to an actual NPT threaded 1/2" RTD / PT100. Since all you're doing is controlling the HLT it won't be as critical, but spend an extra $5 and get something that is easy to mount. I have found that unless I'm recirculating my strike water the temperature is not consistent top-to-bottom, you might want to add a recirculation port and pump.

2. Temperature Probe Connection - You might want to consider a disconnect for your temperature probe. There are three wires, so an XLR plug would work, or any male / female plug really. This would be nice if you have to take everything apart to store it.

3. Enclosure Options - This is related to #2. What I found is that I take my system apart much less often than I thought I would. Most of the time it stays hooked up in my garage basically ready to brew. If I had been thinking I would have permanently mounted the PID, Outlets, and Switches in my Brew Stand somehow. It would be nice to have the switches and PID up higher and closer to the valves, and the outlets and power cables hidden away in the back somewhere. You will have to decide for yourself on this one.

If this is the first electric addition to your system, and you don't have to have a portable solution, I would really suggest buying a panel big enough to add a second element later on. It won't hurt you to have too much room in the box, and probably only costs an extra $10-20 to buy a nice big enclosure from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UPA10Y/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Great advice. I managed to cancel my temp probe order in time and ordered the waterproof 1/2" npt. I'll definitely add a disconnect for the probe as well. Thanks guys. You've been very helpful.

 

[aschrunk]

So, on the topic of PIDs, I've been using a 5500w element and PID (set up from an "Instructibles" site I found), for my brew kettle for the past few years. Since the beginning though, I don't have any real control of the temperature. My probe reads correctly, but, regardless of where I set my PID to heat to, it comes to a boil that I have no control over. I assume that I don't have some setting on my PID right. Do you guys have any thoughts?

Thanks, Adam

 

[brandonring]

So, on the topic of PIDs, I've been using a 5500w element and PID (set up from an "Instructibles" site I found), for my brew kettle for the past few years. Since the beginning though, I don't have any real control of the temperature. My probe reads correctly, but, regardless of where I set my PID to heat to, it comes to a boil that I have no control over. I assume that I don't have some setting on my PID right. Do you guys have any thoughts?

Thanks, Adam

Sounds like it's in manual mode. Which PID are you using?

 

[aschrunk]

It's an Auber, but I didn't open the box to see the model. I've tried it on Auto, and in manual, and it does the same thing. The temperature rises up to 210 (or right around there) no matter which mode it's on, or what temperature I set it to. I calibrated it in ice water, and the temperature is right on with a separate thermometer. I've run the wiring several times, and am almost certain it's right on

 

[Gonefishing]

Old thread, but why did no one ever answer aschrunk's question? Could be good information for many of us.

 

[BeardedBrews]

I've run the wiring several times, and am almost certain it's right on

Could me good information for many of us.

Scenario 1: pid is sending power to the ssr when it shouldn't

Diagnosing : set power to 0 and measure output voltage on pid, >0v = failure

Solution : confirm pid operation instructions, and then confirm wiring pattern for specific pid model, and then possibly you have a bad pid


Scenario 2: SSR is shot ( more likely)

Diagnosing : Disconnect pid from ssr and turn on the power to the element while submerged in water. Water getting hot = failure

Solution : new pid