Simple HLT control

[lalnx]

Couldn't find exactly what I was looking for, so I did this cut/paste hack job of a PJ original. I will use this for my HLT, and just boil with gas until I set up the boil kettle with an element. The only other addition I may go with would just be a 110V led between the contactor and the outlet to illuminate when the element is actually energized by the SSR. If someone could tell me if layout looks ok, that would be awesome.

 

[augiedoggy]

looks good to me but keep in mind you can ditch the nutreal all togetherif you use a contactor with a 240v coil and wire the pid up with 240v as well... it will simplify things a bit... plus a 240v indicator light is the same cost as a 120v one...

if you want to save some $ you can get the mypin td4 pid which has manual mode if you do ever want to use it to control a rolling boil for less than half of the cost as the auber one... I use 4 of these for over 2 years now. same goes for the switches and contactor... you could save about $80 by buying the stuff on amazon or ebay if your not in a rush..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-PID-Te...d=100011&rk=4&rkt=10&mehot=pp&sd=261314138158

 

[lalnx]

Augie, thanks for the feedback, and I am planning on the mypin td4, the graphic I hacked just so happened to reference the auber. I saw where for about $40, I can get the pid, 40a ssr, and a pt-100 combo.

I think I will stick with the 120V in the panel in case I want to add a pump switch in the future. I will probably just go with Ebrewsupply for some $8 LED rotory 2 position switches. I kind of like them becuse with the panel unplugged it is obvious at a glance what position they are in before you plug the panel in. The contactor is only $13.50 from them also.

I will use a triclover element housing at my keggle with a cord going back to a 32amp neutrik powercon connection at the panel.

My last area needing guidence or suggestions from folks will be the best low cost, water resistant, yet easy to connect/disconect RTD sensor set up. I would like to disconnect at the keggle as well as the panel. Also,do I need a thermo-well, or do you just screw in a water tight probe?

 

[iijakii]

My last area needing guidence or suggestions from folks will be the best low cost, water resistant, yet easy to connect/disconect RTD sensor set up. I would like to disconnect at the keggle as well as the panel. Also,do I need a thermo-well, or do you just screw in a water tight probe?

Easiest and cheapest is to just add it to your ball-valve. That way you don't have to drill another hole and purchase another bulkhead. Get a T and buy a PT100 1/2" NPT probe with disconnect. (or you can do 1/4" and add it to sight-glass). Here's a quick example, I didn't price shop or anything: http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-PT100-T...833?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3aac6d7971

Then XLR connectors for the cord & panel side are cheap and work well.

 

[donbrew]

What is wrong with using Cat5e/Cat6/Cat3 (telephone or network) connectors for the temp probes. They are cheap and readily available in HomeDepot & Lowes etc. They have been working flawlessly for me the last 10 years.

I have 5/16 inch homemade brass tube thermowells that my probes just slide into. The Pt100 probe I have, as well as my home made transistor temp sensors fit nicely.

Are you building a Commercial setup with liability issues? I just don't get the OSHA type wiring diagrams. I DO understand that a business cannot publish potentially risky schematics, but geez; a PID attached to a SSR attached to an element via a double pole single throw switch is not that scary.

Why use a PID for the HLT? Why not a simple $5.00 t-stat? My first one was a hot water heater t-stat glued to the tank, worked fine. I do have a 240V HLT, but I'm wondering why lately; I have at least an hour to heat 12 gallons up to 170F.

In 20 years of inventing my own RIMS system I have never had a need for a E-stop or experienced a stuck SSR. I did get a few zaps before I understood grounding a metal pot with an element in it was a good idea.

I started with a manual switch and an element in a plastic bucket and lots of nerve and only one major scalding event (don't boil in a PVC bucket!).

I just joined HBT, so I have not had time to publish any of my pics etc.

This is not intended to be a rant, if that's what it seems. I just don't have the time nor the money to worry about suing myself if I get electrocuted.

 

[Bobby_M]

What is wrong with using Cat5e/Cat6/Cat3 (telephone or network) connectors for the temp probes. They are cheap and readily available in HomeDepot & Lowes etc. They have been working flawlessly for me the last 10 years.

I have 5/16 inch homemade brass tube thermowells that my probes just slide into. The Pt100 probe I have, as well as my home made transistor temp sensors fit nicely.

Are you building a Commercial setup with liability issues? I just don't get the OSHA type wiring diagrams. I DO understand that a business cannot publish potentially risky schematics, but geez; a PID attached to a SSR attached to an element via a double pole single throw switch is not that scary.

Why use a PID for the HLT? Why not a simple $5.00 t-stat? My first one was a hot water heater t-stat glued to the tank, worked fine. I do have a 240V HLT, but I'm wondering why lately; I have at least an hour to heat 12 gallons up to 170F.

In 20 years of inventing my own RIMS system I have never had a need for a E-stop or experienced a stuck SSR. I did get a few zaps before I understood grounding a metal pot with an element in it was a good idea.

I started with a manual switch and an element in a plastic bucket and lots of nerve and only one major scalding event (don't boil in a PVC bucket!).

I just joined HBT, so I have not had time to publish any of my pics etc.

This is not intended to be a rant, if that's what it seems. I just don't have the time nor the money to worry about suing myself if I get electrocuted.

Sounds more like you want to cause a ruckus more than anything else. It took you 20 years to build a RIMS and zapped yourself a few times in the process and you're wondering why the original poster is putting a diagram up here for discussion before moving on?

 

[donbrew]

Sounds more like you want to cause a ruckus more than anything else. It took you 20 years to build a RIMS and zapped yourself a few times in the process and you're wondering why the original poster is putting a diagram up here for discussion before moving on?

Nope. Just discussing.

I just built the darn thing because I wanted it. A few buzzes don't mean much, Ive got them from changing light bulbs. I did not say it took me 20 years to build a RIMS, I started "inventing" mine 20 years ago. Mine has been pretty stable for the last 15 years.

I thought I was discussing! By moving on, do you mean "butt out"? If so, excuse me.

 

[Gameface]

Nope. Just discussing.

I just built the darn thing because I wanted it. A few buzzes don't mean much, Ive got them from changing light bulbs. I did not say it took me 20 years to build a RIMS, I started "inventing" mine 20 years ago. Mine has been pretty stable for the last 15 years.

I thought I was discussing! By moving on, do you mean "butt out"? If so, excuse me.

Hopefully we can lower the temperature in here.

I don't want to speak for Bobby_M, but when he said "moving on" I think he was referring to the OP, saying that the OP was looking for validation of his plan before moving on with the build.

I'm happy to tinker and experiment, but when purchasing a bunch of equipment and putting together a 240v 30-50A control panel I want to make sure what I'm doing makes sense, will work for what I want it for and will not kill me or burn my house down.

To each their own, of course.

 

[Bobby_M]

That's exactly what I meant. In other words, asking for plan validation on a relatively dangerous endeavor makes perfect sense. That's not to discredit the sentiment of "just make it simple and go for it" either because you can learn a lot by doing that. It's just a different attitude.