suckmyale
Well-Known Member
Im going to be taking a huge page out of Disintegr8ors playbook in this thread:
Parts to be used (already purchased):
- 5500 element at 120 (yeah I know 1375w)
- PID MyPIN TD4-SNR
- FOTEK 25A SSR w/ Heatsink
- Silver solder/Hotpot 1.5 TC kit from brewhardware.
- 8x8x4 PVC Enclosure
I have a DC pump to recirculate which I will just power separately.
Im not sure if the element will be enough to boil 3-4 gallons of wort, but I already bought it, so I might as well try.
I have 2 separate dedicated 15 GFCI amp outlets in the kitchen, however, there are 20amp breakers in the panel. So if the element isnt powerful enough, I will look into replacing those outlets with 20amp ones.
The original intent was going to be a proof of concept/beta version/money saver. And make it easier to brew roughly 3G eBIAB batches.
My thoughts:
- Use 12/3 extension cord to supply power to control panel.
- Wire it immediately to a single pole 20amp switch, providing on/off power to the panel. This one?
Or should I get a double pole switch, or is this a bad/stupid idea?
- Wire in the PID (with fuse and smaller wire).
- Wire in the SSR and Element through this switched outlet: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000U3DY3M/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I will go more in-depth with wiring questions, once I get some opinions on this. Thinking about an e-stop, but what is the difference between the first switch and an e-stop (there might still be power in the SSR/control panel, where the e-stop trips the GFCI)?
Thanks
Parts to be used (already purchased):
- 5500 element at 120 (yeah I know 1375w)
- PID MyPIN TD4-SNR
- FOTEK 25A SSR w/ Heatsink
- Silver solder/Hotpot 1.5 TC kit from brewhardware.
- 8x8x4 PVC Enclosure
I have a DC pump to recirculate which I will just power separately.
Im not sure if the element will be enough to boil 3-4 gallons of wort, but I already bought it, so I might as well try.
I have 2 separate dedicated 15 GFCI amp outlets in the kitchen, however, there are 20amp breakers in the panel. So if the element isnt powerful enough, I will look into replacing those outlets with 20amp ones.
The original intent was going to be a proof of concept/beta version/money saver. And make it easier to brew roughly 3G eBIAB batches.
My thoughts:
- Use 12/3 extension cord to supply power to control panel.
- Wire it immediately to a single pole 20amp switch, providing on/off power to the panel. This one?
Or should I get a double pole switch, or is this a bad/stupid idea?
- Wire in the PID (with fuse and smaller wire).
- Wire in the SSR and Element through this switched outlet: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000U3DY3M/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I will go more in-depth with wiring questions, once I get some opinions on this. Thinking about an e-stop, but what is the difference between the first switch and an e-stop (there might still be power in the SSR/control panel, where the e-stop trips the GFCI)?
Thanks
Last edited by a moderator: