Sightglass design, feedback needed

[ryanhope]

I am about to modify some pots to include sight glasses. I dont like most of the kits that exist out there. They are too bulky and seem easily breakable. The style I am talking about here specifically are the style of sigh glasses that come out of the vessel with a 90 deg 1/2" elbow then use a 1/2" to 1/4" compression fitting connected to a piece of ridged tube. This tube then extend upwards and is held in place with an eye bolt. Another common problem with this design is that if wort boils it might some spurting out the top.

So here is what I came up with as an alternative. Solder weld into the side of my vessels 2 1/4" NPT spuds. Into the spuds I would attach a 90 elbow with 1/4" NPT male and 1/4"m hose barb. The barbs would be connected with a tiny diameter silicone hose.

Parts List:
2 x Barb To NPT Elbow (1/4" NPT , 1/4" Barb) --- $8.60 + Shipping
2ft 1/4" I.D. x 3/8" O.D. Silicone Tubing - High Temperature Hose (500F) --- $2.90 + Shipping
2 x 1/4" NPT Welding Spud --- $12.00 + Shipping

The hose could be secured to the barbs with hose clamps if needed. Something like this:

Anyone see any issues with the design? Has anyone had any success with a setup like this?

 

[Black Island Brewer]

I think it's a cool idea! I like the idea of the upper port for containing the liquids percolating out the top, and the use of flexible hose to minimize breakage. The potential drawbacks MIGHT be - the tubing could be harder to keep marked with graduation marks, and depending on the heat wash up the sides of the kettle, might get hotter than the rating of the hose.

I'd love to hear about your results, that way if I ever melt through my polycarbonate tubing (which I almost did) I might replace it with this.

 

[Bobby_M]

You said compression fittings but the picture shows barbs... Yes, this could work just fine. You'd probably want to use silicone orings as your graduation marking in that case. The thinner the silicone tubing walls are, the easier it will be able to see water.

 

[ryanhope]

You said compression fittings but the picture shows barbs...

I said compression when talking about the style I don't like.

Yes, this could work just fine. You'd probably want to use silicone orings as your graduation marking in that case. The thinner the silicone tubing walls are, the easier it will be able to see water.

Good idea on the o-rings. I was thinking that once I had things installed I would have a template where I could cut and/or remark the tubing with the graduation marks when needed.

 

[Bobby_M]

I shud lurn to reed gooder.

 

[eric19312]

I've got one of Bobby M's sight glasses and like it a lot. I was originally concerned about the attachment to the top and the "wort spurting out" problem but it hasn't been an issue. The polycarbonate has held up well and doesnt seem at all fragile.

A few concerns about your proposed design. First is your "glass" is not going to be able to measure a significant portion of the top of your kettle with that top elbow design. I know you may not plan to boil with the kettle that full but there may come a time when you want to be able to measure the full volume.

Second the open top design facilitates cleaning with a brush although I've done fine hot PBW and no brush.

Third a big +1 on the concern about the heat wash and compatibility of the tubing you plan to use. Might be a disaster if that tubing fails mid boil.

I'd say go buy Bobby's sight glass but if you've just got to DIY do come back with pictures and let us know how it works out.

 

[passedpawn]

Bobby's aren't perfect - the polycarbonate tube will eventually craze and snap. Mine lasted about 2 years (replacement tube was $14-ish). They are the best ones I've seen for sale though. I've broken lesser sight gauges.

I like things built to last, so I'd try your idea. Looking forward to pictures!

 

[241]

That's what I was about to say, I wouldn't trust the tubing during the boil. Maybe it will be fine, but I tend to avoid "maybe" situations whenever possible.

Have you checked out the MoreBeer version? They make different sizes...

http://morebeer.com/products/weldless-sight-gauge-20-stainless-1.html

 

[passedpawn]

That's what I was about to say, I wouldn't trust the tubing during the boil. Maybe it will be fine, but I tend to avoid "maybe" situations whenever possible.

Have you checked out the MoreBeer version? They make different sizes...

http://morebeer.com/products/weldless-sight-gauge-20-stainless-1.html

How did I miss that! Yowza!

 

[ryanhope]

A few concerns about your proposed design. First is your "glass" is not going to be able to measure a significant portion of the top of your kettle with that top elbow design. I know you may not plan to boil with the kettle that full but there may come a time when you want to be able to measure the full volume.

For me not a problem, my new kettle is 25 gallon (100qt). Never doing a full boil in that pot.

Second the open top design facilitates cleaning with a brush although I've done fine hot PBW and no brush.

The using soft tube that comes off with hose clamps means I can soak it in pbw with other brewing equipment if they need a good clean.

Third a big +1 on the concern about the heat wash and compatibility of the tubing you plan to use.

I was thinking about using tube like this -> 1/4" I.D. x 3/8" O.D. Silicone Tubing - High Temperature Hose (500F) Which should hold up just as well as other tube we often have near our burners.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Mark the graduations on the side of the keg, instead of the hose......Eye f^%k the level of the liquid against the graduations that can be in BIG numbers........

 

[ryanhope]

Mark the graduations on the side of the keg, instead of the hose......Eye f^%k the level of the liquid against the graduations that can be in BIG numbers........

Once a keg is calibrated w/ initial markings on the tube just use a ruler and meaure... write down the measurements. From that point forward maintaining the markings will be easy,

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Once a keg is calibrated w/ initial markings on the tube just use a ruler and meaure... write down the measurements. From that point forward maintaining the markings will be easy,

True.........I was aiming the comment towards the use of flexible tubing, which may not stay taut............

 

[iaefebs]

I want to hear more about the bubbling cauldron of wort pushing it's way out the top of the tube. I have the exact opposite fear, that the wort inside the tube will never reach a high enough temperature. Has anyone ever had boil overs in the sight tube?

 

[passedpawn]

I want to hear more about the bubbling cauldron of wort pushing it's way out the top of the tube. I have the exact opposite fear, that the wort inside the tube will never reach a high enough temperature. Has anyone ever had boil overs in the sight tube?

As well you should be. I have electric kettles. I put a logging thermometer into the kettle and the sight glass. As you can see, the wort in the sight glass never gets above about 130F.

BTW, NEVER put your mouth on a sight glass and blow, with the hopes of forcing the wort down into the main kettle. If any idiot ever tries this, you'll find that it comes right back up much more quickly than you'd expect

 

[iaefebs]

I did a search and it appears that some people have experienced boil over in the tube, and a heat shield is needed. My worry is what PP shows in the above graph. I never get a boil in the tube and a return elbow would be an added cost and not needed. I wonder why you have a flame extending beyond the pot and in contact with the sight tube, that is just wasted energy going into the air.

 

[ryanhope]

As well you should be. I have electric kettles. I put a logging thermometer into the kettle and the sight glass. As you can see, the wort in the sight glass never gets above about 130F.

BTW, NEVER put your mouth on a sight glass and blow, with the hopes of forcing the wort down into the main kettle. If any idiot ever tries this, you'll find that it comes right back up much more quickly than you'd expect

Why do you care about the 30ml of wort in your sight glass not boiling?

 

[Newsman]

I have to say, that MoreBeer sightglass looks AWESOME!

 

[ryanhope]

I have to say, that MoreBeer sightglass looks AWESOME!

No way I would pay 70 dollars for a 20' sight gauge.

 

[ryanhope]

Well all the parts are ordered. I will let you all know how it goes next week once things are installed.

 

[ryanhope]

Instead of marking up the sight tube I am thinking it would be nice to just electric etch the kettle behind the tube.

 

[Docbruw]

I did a search and it appears that some people have experienced boil over in the tube, and a heat shield is needed. My worry is what PP shows in the above graph. I never get a boil in the tube and a return elbow would be an added cost and not needed. I wonder why you have a flame extending beyond the pot and in contact with the sight tube, that is just wasted energy going into the air.

Until I get the e-brewery up and running I'm using a top tier burner and that thing will boil the wort in the sightglass if I done shield it. Heck it will melt the plastic off the ball valve handle too. That's even after I turn down the flame once I reach boiling.

 

[ryanhope]

Until I get the e-brewery up and running I'm using a top tier burner and that thing will boil the wort in the sightglass if I done shield it. Heck it will melt the plastic off the ball valve handle too. That's even after I turn down the flame once I reach boiling.

I did that on my old pot too, melted the rubber on the handle. Shouldn't have problems with the new 100qt pots, they are 20" wide.

 

[ryanhope]

Here is a mockup of what it would look like:

 

[DrunkleJon]

Unless you plan on sheathing it in something more rigid like a piece of pipe with a cutout, I would worry about the tubing softening with the heat and then getting knocked off the barb and spilling precious wort all over the place and burning you.

 

[ryanhope]

Unless you plan on sheathing it in something more rigid like a piece of pipe with a cutout, I would worry about the tubing softening with the heat and then getting knocked off the barb and spilling precious wort all over the place and burning you.

When installed the hose would be secured with clamps, oetiker for the bk and worm gear for the others.

 

[DrunkleJon]

When installed the hose would be secured with clamps, oetiker for the bk and worm gear for the others.

Just be careful. with heat and the resulting extra pliability of tubing I would be careful either way. Heck, to keep down burns and breakage I would still consider sheathing a glass or hard poly sight glasses.

Devils advocate and all that. And we all know how much of a bastard that Murphy guy is. And not to mention the dad-gum brew gremlins.

 

[ryanhope]

Heck, to keep down burns and breakage I would still consider sheathing a glass or hard poly sight glasses.

If I wanted to go with hard poly or glass I would have just went with one of the premade designs that Bobby and others sell. The silicone tube is the same material as my other hoses that hand from my kettle around the burner and those don't melt. I am actually pretty sure silicone tube will hold up to heats better than poly tube. Have you ever read the warnings/instructions about poly tube that Bobby has posted on his site -> http://brewhardware.com/polycarbonate-care

 

[Bobby_M]

The polycarbonate thing is a bit of a can of worms. There are guys in my homebrew club who are still brewing on the first ever sight glasses I've made and that's over 3 years of monthly use. Some people have water chemistry that when combined with PBW will kill polycarbonate in a 4 hour long soak.

 

[ryanhope]

Sight tube works!

^^ I know its not the best picture but if you look closely you can see its holding water.

 

[Black Island Brewer]

Just from experience, I'd recommend hose clamps on the barbs, heat changes things and Murphy's Law will come into effect.

 

[ryanhope]

Just from experience, I'd recommend hose clamps on the barbs, heat changes things and Murphy's Law will come into effect.

Of course, this was mostly just a "will it hold water" test now that I am done silver soldering stuff.