Hi . all my beer has been bottled . i don't have counter pressure filler
should i be worried about beer oxidation if i consume my homebrew beer within 2 month and no more then that ?
Sorry for being a bit bland, but this is almost completely false information.All bottling is going to suffer some level of oxygen exposure, but careful packaging can help minimize the level. If you're using a bottling bucket, carefully transfer from the fermenter filling the bottling bucket from the bottom up without splashing. I found that using a fermenter with a spigot helped a lot with this because my auto siphon always had bubbles indicating that air was getting in the line. You could also bottle directly from the fermenter which eliminates oxygen exposure. With either method, use a proper spring tipped bottling wand on your faucet to fill the bottles from the bottom up and all the way to the top. Once the bottling wand is removed, you'll have the perfect head space in the bottles. Last, you can use oxygen absorbing bottle caps to seal the deal.
Your addition that the yeast uses up the oxygen as it consumes the sugar and carbonates the beer is completely accurate. I agree with that and did not speak on post bottling conditions. I do not agree that what I contributed is false. I think it is wise to minimize oxygen exposure during the bottling process. Nothing I said is false information.Sorry for being a bit bland, but this is almost completely false information.
Oxygen introduction into the liquid during bottling time is not a real issue as the yeast gets some sugar to digest in the bottle when bottle carbing (doesn't mean that trying to avoid oxygen exposure at this stage is a bad idea). During this short active phase, the yeast almost instantly absorbs and uses up all the available oxygen in the liquid, so that oxygen that has been introduced doesn't have enough time to do much damage to your beer.
The real issue is the oxygen in the head space. The head space oxygen diffuses very slowly into the liquid. As long as the yeast ist active, again, no problem. But unfortunately, there will be oxygen left in the headspace once the sugar is all metabolized and the yeast is gone dormant again. This leftover oxygen then continues to diffuse from the gas in the headspace into the beer and now it's doing damage to the beer.
So keeping the headspace as small as technically possible without risking cracked bottles, is of upmost importance. Once you remove the bottling wand, unfortunately, there is way too much headspace. So you have to manually force the boiling wand to fill the bottle more by pressing the little button at the bottom to the side of the bottle neck till there is 5-10mm headspace left.
Not 100% false, but your post is focusing on aspects which are almost irrelevant to oxidation when bottling, instead of focusing on the real issues and the reasoning behind it. Sorry, might be the language barrier here doing it's thing.Your addition that the yeast uses up the oxygen as it consumes the sugar and carbonates the beer is completely accurate. I agree with that and did not speak on post bottling conditions. I do not agree that what I contributed is false. I think it is wise to minimize oxygen exposure during the bottling process. Nothing I said is false information.
Shaking the bottle will dissolve and distribute that oxygen rapidly. Running a shaken-vs-stirred experiment to test hypothesis should be easy enough, and I'd actually do it if I had some suitable pale beers in the foreseaable pipeline. (I'm on purpose ignoring how common knowledge tells you not to shake the bottle, because common knowledge more often than not seems to be wrong)The real issue is the oxygen in the head space. The head space oxygen diffuses very slowly into the liquid. As long as the yeast ist active, again, no problem. But unfortunately, there will be oxygen left in the headspace once the sugar is all metabolized and the yeast is gone dormant again. This leftover oxygen then continues to diffuse from the gas in the headspace into the beer and now it's doing damage to the beer.
I also thought about shaking it. I routinely did it to speed up carbonation by forcing yeast back into suspension. Downside is, yeast is back in suspension and even if it carbs up quicker (which it really does), one still has to wait till the yeast has settled again. Depending on the yeast strain, this can take a while.Shaking the bottle will dissolve and distribute that oxygen rapidly. Running a shaken-vs-stirred experiment to test hypothesis should be easy enough, and I'd actually do it if I had some suitable pale beers in the foreseaable pipeline. (I'm on purpose ignoring how common knowledge tells you not to shake the bottle, because common knowledge more often than not seems to be wrong)
Flushing the headspace with CO2 before capping does have a huge effect. Minimizing the headspace no doubt does the same with less equipment, just harder to make a controlled pour from a very full bottle.
No. Somebody tried that here... There's one big headspace thread with all different variants tried and tested.It’s partly that active yeast will consume oxygen, and partly that oxidation products (aldehydes, etc.) get enzymatically deoxygenated.
I haven’t tried this, but is there enough carbonation after fermentation to fob and cap on foam?
Am I the only one who puts a stir bar into every bottle? ;-)I think it would be necessary to continuously shake it, to really get most of the oxygen into solution before the sugar is gone and that is a bit unpractical.
bottle conditioning . i just found this great video suggestion to use Plastic/Pet bottle and squeeze the bottle to force most of oxygen out . sounds like a great ideaYou mention a counter pressure filler - are you bottling already carbonated beer from a keg, or are you priming in the bottle to carbonate during bottle conditioning?
bottle conditioning . i just found this great video suggestion to use Plastic/Pet bottle and squeeze the bottle to force most of oxygen out . sounds like a great idea
I have seen enough evidence to believe that storing bottled beer cold once it is fully carbonated, will help to reduce impacts of oxidation. I have a fridge where I keep my kegged beers, but my bottled beers are typically stored at around 68F. Though if your batch is not an IPA, it might not matter much.should i be worried about beer oxidation if i consume my homebrew beer within 2 month and no more then that ?
I have seen enough evidence to believe that storing bottled beer cold once it is fully carbonated, will help to reduce impacts of oxidation. I have a fridge where I keep my kegged beers, but my bottled beers are typically stored at around 68F. Though if your batch is not an IPA, it might not matter much.
It depends. If you want to age your beer a bit, which almost all British beers should be, at least for a month or two, then cold storage inhibits also all the other chemical reactions that happen beside oxidation. IE it slows down the aging process. For American ipas and apas it might be a good idea, for other beers probably not.A good thread with lots of info on the topic:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...dspace-o2-in-a-bottle-conditioned-ipa.653784/
More and more I tend to think that oxidation of bottled beers is one of the major causes of that "stale homebrew taste" in beer. A small amount of oxidation can be fatal for NEIPA style beers, and can have a significant impact on even mildly hoppy beers. I am not positive how much impact it has on most other styles. I am not sure if I have seen sensory data gathered on a style like a Pilsner (a style where oxidation could likely mute the typical grain characters).
Personally, I am wondering if the Saisons and Dubbels that I often brew and bottle would benefit from better practices to reduce oxygen in the bottle. The beers taste great after months in the bottle, but I need to do some trails to see if they could taste better.
I have seen enough evidence to believe that storing bottled beer cold once it is fully carbonated, will help to reduce impacts of oxidation. I have a fridge where I keep my kegged beers, but my bottled beers are typically stored at around 68F. Though if your batch is not an IPA, it might not matter much.
bottle conditioning . i just found this great video suggestion to use Plastic/Pet bottle and squeeze the bottle to force most of oxygen out . sounds like a great idea
I agree. The experiment was about a squeezed bottle vs one that was not squeezed. I doubt shaking or not shaking a standard fill bottle would make much difference. The oxygen is already in the bottle and it seems like it will eventually cause oxidation. The real solution is probably not having that oxygen in there to start with, but I would be open to experiments on this.Although that’s an interesting experiment. The results don’t tell us anything about bottling in glass. If he would have left headspace in both, shook one it would be relevant. maybe he address this in the second half of the vid as I ended it early?
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