Shank thru keezer collar and pink foamboard insulation; backing plate for lock nut?

[agrazela]

I see many keezer builds online using pink foam board insulation inside the collar. I'm planning to use this because I have a bunch left from another project.

In the area where the shanks go, a lot of times I see that the builder just leaves a "blank spot" (no insulation). Or perhaps cuts rounds out of the insulation big enough to install the locknut to the collar (like in this pic, and what I'm thinking of doing...though sadly, not nearly this many taps! ) :

Either of those seems like you'd lose some insulation value. Maybe that's just not a big deal?

BUT, is there anyone boring through the pink foamboard just big enough for the shank's diameter, then using some sort of backing plate (made from: plywood, or Masonite, or phenolic sheet, or perhaps just giant fender washers, or ???), THEN the locknut? (See my attached drawing for illustration)

Seems like that'd maximize insulation value...though my concern would be crushing down the insulation and/or constantly having to re-tighten the lock nut(s)?

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

Seems like that'd maximize insulation value...though my concern would be crushing down the insulation and/or constantly having to re-tighten the lock nut(s)?

You can have one, or the other. Not both.

Could also take the removed rounds, bored for shank, and slide them back over after the nut is secured.

 

[Oldskooler]

I did exactly as you suggest using a piece of 1/2 in plywood. Works fine

 

[k1ngl1ves]

From my experience, the foam eventually gets smashed down in weird ways when a "backing plate" is used. Then you end up with some shanks being loose, and then OCD kicks in, then all hell breaks loose in your brain. Lol! Trust me, you will bump a shank with a keg at some point, and straight down the rabbit hole you go...


I cut out the hole large enough for the nut with a hole saw. Then I use a 7/8" (I think offhand) to cut a hole in the middle, so it's like a donut. Slip it back over the shank after tightening down the nut. Pull the "donut" out on occasion to make sure you don't have any nasties growing in there. You never know. (OCD kicking in again!)

It's really not a big deal though. It's actually better for the shank to be cold anyways, so make sure you leave at least some of it exposed.



Edit: Ninja'd by Gila while I typed my long winded drivel...

 

[agrazela]

Thanks all.

I'm a clumsy sumbitch, so I'm sure I'll be bumping shanks with kegs. So no backing plate for me, pink donuts here I come!

 

[PapaO]

You could use 1” PVC over the shank. Cut it the depth of the insulation put on lock nut no crushing down the insulation, easy to retighten locknut if you have to.

 

[TheGoatman]

Could also screw in 4 screws (to create the corners of a box) to use as "stands" that the backing plate could press against without crushing the insulation. k1ngl1ves is right though, the shanks are better to be exposed to the fridge to keep them cold.

 

[spank13]

I found using a extra piece of wood behind the insulation helped secure/stabilize the shanks and keep the foamboard from being chewed up. I did it on the back side as well to attach the gas manifolds. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1454216429.431490.jpg