For the two bottles that you are concerned with, I’d out them away somewhere safe like in a storage tote just in case. As for the 750ml bottle, two drops is probably fine.
I can't remember which bottles they were thoughFor the two bottles that you are concerned with, I’d out them away somewhere safe like in a storage tote just in case. As for the 750ml bottle, two drops is probably fine.
I can't remember which bottles they were though
They are all in a cupboard, I guess we will just have to wait and see lolLol….Can you store them all safely then?
I'll take a gamble and hope none explode.. I will try and be more careful next timeI did a sample calculation. Taking the sugar needed for 2.5 volumes - using double the sugar bumps it to 4.22 volumes. That's considered too much pressure for normal bottles.
Well to clarify one thing, bottle conditioning and carbonation is not the same as secondary fermentation. Secondary fermentation is something that happens in the fermenter between primary fermentation and bottling/kegging.What do you guys recommend I do to store my bottles for secondary fermentation etc..? What degrees and for how long? Dark or light? The instruction say to store in a warm place for 5 days and then a cool dark place. Does not tell me temperature though
wow.
What beer went down to 0.993??!!
No, Kit instructions are generally crap.https://brew2bottle.co.uk/pages/ritchies-simply-beer-kits-instructions
It says on my instructions to store bottles in a warm place for 5 days and then move to a cool dark place and leave until clear.
I don't exactly know what leaving to clear means, how will I know when it is clear. It does not give me an exact temperature range either. My house is pretty warm, so I am not sure where would be cool.
It also says: Your beer is ready to drink as soon as it's clear, but for a smoother beer leave somewhere cool and dark for an extra 2 weeks.
I want to follow @TestTickle advice and leave for 2 weeks in a warm place. But is there any reason why the instructions are telling me to leave in a cool place instead? Perhaps it is to do with this specific kit?
They are providing very general instructions. Following them will still result in beer, but after some experience with the entire process, you will find that some steps are correct, some aren't necessary and that there are additional things you can do to make the beer turn out even better. These kits mostly assume that it's a new brewer making the beer (not that it's always the case), so it's a bit simplified.https://brew2bottle.co.uk/pages/ritchies-simply-beer-kits-instructions
It says on my instructions to store bottles in a warm place for 5 days and then move to a cool dark place and leave until clear.
I don't exactly know what leaving to clear means, how will I know when it is clear. It does not give me an exact temperature range either. My house is pretty warm, so I am not sure where would be cool.
It also says: Your beer is ready to drink as soon as it's clear, but for a smoother beer leave somewhere cool and dark for an extra 2 weeks.
I want to follow @TestTickle advice and leave for 2 weeks in a warm place. But is there any reason why the instructions are telling me to leave in a cool place instead? Perhaps it is to do with this specific kit?
Very very helpful information, thank you.They are providing very general instructions. Following them will still result in beer, but after some experience with the entire process, you will find that some steps are correct, some aren't necessary and that there are additional things you can do to make the beer turn out even better. These kits mostly assume that it's a new brewer making the beer (not that it's always the case), so it's a bit simplified.
They are definitely vague with the temperature recommendations. Maybe warm to them is 25C? Maybe cool to them is 20C? Or is it 15C? In most cases, 5 days is not long enough to carb your beer, and moving it to a cool place (depending on their definition of cool) will slow down the process. If there was some guarantee that the beer would be carbed in a week, then their instructions would be fine, but more times than not, that is just not the case.
Something I can tell you is that there are a lot of collective years of brewing experience on this forum and even in this thread, and two weeks around room temp (20C) is your starting point. While it's very possible to have carbonated beer in a week, it still benefits from the extra time for the beer to "condition" and for things to further clean up and settle. Since there is no way to test the carbonation, flavor or even clarity of the beer without opening one, we prefer to be patient and give it the extra time we feel it needs.
Just make things easy and keep it at between 18C-24C for two weeks. Then chill one and see how it's coming along. If you think it's good, chill some more and enjoy. But like I suggested, I would still let some of them sit for another week, chill and taste again. Repeat after a 4th week just to see if it has improved more. If it's REALLY killing you, go ahead and try one after a week, but I can almost guarantee that it won't be quite as good as the ones you wait for.
If you store other stuff in that cupboard, you may to move your bottles to another location, like a covered garbage can, large cooler or (in my case) plastic bin with a cover. If you do have a bottle burst, it sprays liquid and glass shards everywhere and will cover everything around it with stickiness and things that cut!They are all in a cupboard, I guess we will just have to wait and see lol
When I started, I was very concerned about leaving the beer in the fermenter too long. On the advice of many here, I stopped worrying about that so much. Leaving the beer on the trub a week or two "too long" generally won't hurt anything and it can help a good bit.13 days now.
I would really love to know exactly what I should do. I know I might get hated on this but there is this professional brewer on youtube and he says that you really do not need to ferment for 3 weeks despite everyone telling you you should. Apparently because that is an old saying and it is found to not be necessary anymore. I have made good beer before fermenting for only 7 days too. I just want to be extra careful this time because my last batch messed up somehow
Well to clarify one thing, bottle conditioning and carbonation is not the same as secondary fermentation. Secondary fermentation is something that happens in the fermenter between primary fermentation and bottling/kegging.
Well if you want to get technical, then yes, in this case it’s technically a secondary fermentation. But if he were transfer to a secondary followed by bottle carbonation, it’s no longer secondary fermentation.Technically, secondary fermentation is any fermentation that occurs after primary fermentation. Fermentation of priming sugar during bottle carbonating qualifies.
Well if you want to get technical, then yes, in this case it’s technically a secondary fermentation.
But if he were transfer to a secondary followed by bottle carbonation, it’s no longer secondary fermentation.
Damn dude, chill out.Sorry Man, I felt like I needed to get technical, since you tried to get technical in "correcting" @IEpicDestiny.
The term “secondary” gets thrown around so much that it could refer to a few different things. 99% of the time someone says they are doing a secondary, we don’t think that are referring to bottle conditioning.
Exactly.That's true. When someone says "doing a secondary," they're usually referring to something that is not a secondary fermentation at all.
A bit too little is better than a bit too much. In the case you mention I would put 2. Maybe mark one bottle and put 3 in just that one, and mark it. Store it in a bucket or clean trash can in case it blows, which it probably won't but its good to be safe. If you drink the 3 drop bottle and like it better than the 2 drop bottles, there you go. You know what to do next time, assuming everything else is exactly the same in the next batch as it was in this one.I have just done the bottling today, I may have put 2 extra carbonation drops in a few bottle of 500ml. I just wonder how bad that is, could that cause bottle bombs?
Also the carbonation drops packet says 1 drop for 350ml and 2 for 500ml, but how many for 750ml bottles? 3? or still 2? I put 2 just incase, will the beer be less carbonated?
Would'nt it be better to get the fastest yeast possible then?
Fermenting with a loose lid instead of an airlock? That has the potential for disaster. You don't want any air to get in there on your beer. It will oxygenate it, first of all. Oxygen and UV light are the enemies of tasty beer. Once the yeast is pitched and working, you don't want any additional oxygen to touch your beer. Clear fermenters need to be kept covered or in a dark room. Another issue with air getting into your fermenter is it can infect your batch with wild yeasts or bacteria, few of which would be beneficial or even benign.This is the FV I am using, it does not use an airlock but the loose fit is probably what helps release the carbon dioxide.
It also has a valve which makes bottling easier (comes with wand too). I have another FV which uses an airlock and I have a syphon too. But yes I will be bottling straight from the fermenter, I would rather have as less cleaning to do as possible.
Before I measured with teaspoon but since that may have been the cause of my beer going flat last batch I have bought 100s of carbonation drops (more expensive for now but I wanted to make sure they work). I suppose the sugar needs to be pretty exact, some may have gone on the sides of the bottles, however every single beer of that batch was flat and tasted the same.
I will be using carbonation drops this time round (the last time I did it turned out well) but it would be nice to know a better way to put the sugar in each bottle (but I sort of doubt it was to do with the sugar.. no idea. It almost put me off homebrewing though)
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