Rye IPA - First partial mash, first self-made recipe

[mttfrog13]

Thanks again for the feedback. This has been updated with the final recipe, OG, and the actual AA for the hops that I used.


Spring Mill Red Rye IPA

Brew Method: Partial Mash
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 5.25 gallons
Boil Size: 3 gallons
Actual Efficiency: 64%

STATS:
Actual Original Gravity: 1.066
Anticipated Final Gravity: 1.019
Anticipated ABV: 6.41%
IBU (tinseth): 58.96
SRM (morey): 13.14

FERMENTABLES:
6 lb - Liquid Malt Extract - Amber (50.3%)

Mash:
2 lb - Pale 2-Row (16.8%)
2 lb - Rye (16.8%)
1 lb - Carapils (Dextrine Malt) (8.4%)
0.6667 lb - Weyermann CaraRye (5.6%)
0.25 lb - Aromatic (2.1%)

BOIL:
1 oz - Centennial Type (AA 9.7) for 60 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil
1 oz - Warrior (AA 16.7) for 60 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil

0.5 oz - Centennial Type (AA 9.7) for 15 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil
0.5 oz - Willamette (AA 5.7) for 15 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil
1 tablet - Whirlfloc for 15 min

0.5 oz - Centennial Type (AA 9.7) for 0 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil
0.5 oz - Willamette (AA 5.7) for 0 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil

DRY HOP:
1 oz - Cascade (AA 8.9) for 7 days, Type: Leaf/Whole, Use: Dry Hop
1 oz - Willamette (AA 5.7) for 7 days, Type: Leaf/Whole, Use: Dry Hop

MASH STEPS:
1) Temperature, Temp: 152 F, Time: 60 min, Amount: 7.5 qt
2) Sparge, Temp: 170 F, Amount: 7.5 qt

YEAST:
Fermentis / Safale - Safale - American Ale Yeast US-05

 

[kingwood-kid]

3 pounds is way more than enough, especially given that the rye can self-convert. You could safely go 3lbs rye and 1lb 6-row if you want more rye flavor. The usual water ratio for all-grain is 1-1.5 qts/lb, but for PM that ratio is more of a minimum, so 3 gallons would be better. As long as you rinse the grain with at least 8 qts more water after draining the first runnings, you'll be fine. If you want to emulate Amarillo, you could add a little Citra, maybe 1/2oz at 5 min and 1/2oz dry-hopped. Biscuit would be my preference over Crystal rye, your beer is already big and thick as is. You could easily sub crystal rye (which is 80L) for the 80L crystal, which would add more rye flavor without altering color or gravity, but would add a little more rye flavor and maybe less of a burnt taste.

 

[mttfrog13]

Thanks for the feedback. I think I'll go with a full 2lbs of rye then, and would it be OK if I reduced the 2-row to 2lbs? I just feel as if this partial mash is getting huge. I'll check if my lhbs has crystal rye which I doubt and I'll see about replacing the crystal 80 with it. I also added some biscuit to the recipe which I'm sure they have.

Here's a revised recipe.

Title: Red Rye IPA

Brew Method: Partial Mash
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 5.25 gallons
Boil Size: 3 gallons
Est. Efficiency: 65%

ESTIMATED STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.068
Final Gravity: 1.019
ABV (standard): 6.47%
IBU (tinseth): 57.43
SRM (morey): 13.39

FERMENTABLES:
6 lb - Liquid Malt Extract - Amber (49%)

Mash @ 152 for 1 hour with 8 quarts
1 lb - Carapils (Dextrine Malt) (8.2%)
2 lb - Pale 2-Row (16.3%)
2 lb - Rye (16.3%)
0.5 lb - Caramel / Crystal 80L (4.1%)
0.5 lb - Biscuit (4.1%)
0.25 lb - Belgian Aromatic (2%)

BOIL:
0.5 oz - Warrior (AA 15) for 60 min, Type: Pellet

0.5 oz - Centennial Type (AA 10) for 40 min, Type: Pellet
0.5 oz - Warrior (AA 15) for 40 min, Type: Pellet

0.5 oz - Centennial Type (AA 10) for 30 min, Type: Pellet
0.5 oz - Willamette (AA 4.5) for 30 min, Type: Pellet

0.5 oz - Centennial Type (AA 10) for 20 min, Type: Pellet

0.5 oz - Centennial Type (AA 10) for 10 min, Type: Pellet
0.5 oz - Willamette (AA 4.5) for 10 min, Type: Pellet

1 Whirlfloc tablet at 15

DRY HOP:
1 oz - Cascade (AA 6) for 7 days, Type: Leaf/Whole
1 oz - Willamette (AA 4.5) for 7 days, Type: Leaf/Whole

YEAST:
Fermentis / Safale - Safale - American Ale Yeast US-05

 

[inhousebrew]

I won't comment on your grainbill since I've never done a partial mash before but I brew up and all grain Red Rye which I like to use about 30% rye in for great Rye flavor. Just saying.

Also, I'm not much a fan of the 40 and 30 minute hop additions. Seems like a waste to me because you won't get as many IBUs as a 60 minute addition and you won't get any flavor/aroma boiling that long. I'd do everything at 60 for bittering then do a 20 for flavor and your 10 for aroma.

 

[danny_deck]

Couple of things to think about: Why amber malt? As it stands, you have 16% Rye with another 4% of C80. If your're using it for color, it won't be necessary. In this recipe, you'd be fine with a Light extract and letting the rye and crystal do the coloring. My main objection to amber, though, is the flavor.

Also, that's a high finishing gravity for an IPA. If you're looking to scale back your PM, you could bump down your carapils to 4%. With the 4% C80, you're going to have plenty of body. It will also lower your finishing gravity and give less sweetness to your beer. I'd shoot for 1.012 (I know that's hard with malt extract).

Also, with 2 pounds of rye, you're going to need to add rice hulls to your mash. Rye will make the mash very sticky and difficult to sparge (which would affect your OG).

Hops: I might consider doing a Cascade/Centennial combo and removing the Williamette. That's a classic combo and will give you a nice aroma.

Good luck with your brew day!

 

[kingwood-kid]

I have the SRM at 26 when I run the numbers, 13 from the grain and 13 from the extract. Switching to pale would put it around 18. Not going to say one is better than the other. I also think you'll finish a few points lower than 1.018, closer to 1.015. 2lbs of rye will only give you about 14% of your gravity, in my opinion not quite enough to really call it a rye beer. I'd go to 3 lbs, which would be 20%. Rice hulls not 100% necessary, but potentially useful and certainly harmless.

I agree with inhousebrew on the hop timing. Use enough warrior at 60 to get the IBUs you want, then add the rest at 15/0/post-boil steep/dry-hop to get the flavor and aroma you're looking for. I'm personally not a big fan of willamette in most beers, but one of my favorite beers (Real Ale's Pale Moon Rye) uses rye, cascade and willamette, so go for it. I've brewed similar beers with other non-citrus hops like Crystal or Nugget alongside the Cascade, and they turned out great.

 

[mttfrog13]

Thanks guys for the feedback. I will check if my lhbs has crystal rye to replace the crystal 80 and give it more rye flavor, but really, I'm OK with 14% rye. If they have the crystal rye, I would probably drop the biscuit and aromatic though.

As for the SRM, are you sure it's 26? I used both tastybrew .com and brewersfriend .com and they are both telling me 13 - 14 srm which is what I want. That should be a really dark amber/red color.....right? I'm looking for an amber ale that is basically a few shades from being brown.

I chose amber malt just for the color. I'm using northernbrewer's malt and they say that there's only crystal 60 and some munich in it. Is the reason you're against the amber lme just out of preference for freshly mashed grains? If I switch to light LME, I'd have to go up to a full pound of either crystal 80 or crystal rye when currently I plan on using 1/2 to 2/3 lbs.

Also, both of the calculators are saying that I don't think really have a way to get the final gravity down unless I were looking to make a 4 or 5 percent beer and a lot lighter. I'll reduce the carapils to .5lb but that won't help much. How is the high final gravity going to affect the beer and is there a way to get it down without lightening the beer?

Here's the new hop schedule that should come to about 60 IBUs.

BOIL:
1 oz - Warrior (AA 15) for 60 min, Type: Pellet
1 oz - Centennial Type (AA 10) for 60 min, Type: Pellet

0.5 oz - Centennial Type (AA 10) for 15 min, Type: Pellet
0.5 oz - Willamette (AA 4.5) for 15 min, Type: Pellet

0.5 oz - Centennial Type (AA 10) for 0 min, Type: Pellet
0.5 oz - Willamette (AA 4.5) for 0 min, Type: Pellet

1 Whirlfloc tablet at 15

DRY HOP:
1 oz - Cascade (AA 6) for 7 days, Type: Leaf/Whole
1 oz - Willamette (AA 4.5) for 7 days, Type: Leaf/Whole

 

[danny_deck]

In BrewSmith, I get an SRM of about 14 when I plugged your recipe in, as is. It drops to 12 when subbing the pale LME for the amber LME. Re: amber malt - I just don't prefer the flavor of amber malts (which is roasted 2-row) and don't tend to like amber beers. You are free to ignore my preference. An SRM of 12 brings it more toward a brown ale color.

BrewSmith is calculating a FG of 1016, which is fine for this style of IPA. It doesn't look like halving the carapils or mashing at a lower temperature makes much of a difference in the FG.

I don't use biscuit or aromatic so am unsure what they contribute flavor-wise. Removing them drops the FG by a point.

Good luck and report back how it tastes.

 

[mttfrog13]

I ordered my supplies last week from NB and now I'm really wishing i went with a crystal rye/biscuit combination rather than crystal 80/aromatic. I'll have to check my lhbs this friday, if they have both crystal rye and biscuit, I'll go with that. Otherwise, I'll be sticking with crystal 80/aromatic.

 

[mttfrog13]

Just called my lhbs. They did not have the Fawcett Crystal Rye that norther brewer had. The Fawcett was 70 - 80L. But they do in fact have weyermann cararye which is 57-77L so in the recipe I estimated it at 65l and 33ppg. I may or may not switch the aromatic for biscuit. I'll probably stick with the aromatic since I already have it and don't want to waste.

Brew Method: Partial Mash
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 5.25 gallons
Boil Size: 3 gallons
Est. Efficiency: 65%

STATS:
Est. Original Gravity: 1.066
Est. Final Gravity: 1.019
Est. ABV (standard): 6.28%
IBU (tinseth): 60.26
SRM (morey): 13.19

FERMENTABLES:
6 lb - Liquid Malt Extract - Amber (50.3%)

Mash:
1 lb - Carapils (Dextrine Malt) (8.4%)
2 lb - Pale 2-Row (16.8%)
2 lb - Rye (16.8%)
0.25 lb - Aromatic (2.1%)
0.6667 lb - Weyermann CaraRye (5.6%)

BOIL:
1 oz - Centennial Type (AA 10) for 60 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil
1 oz - Warrior (AA 15) for 60 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil

0.5 oz - Centennial Type (AA 10) for 15 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil
0.5 oz - Willamette (AA 4.5) for 15 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil
1 Whirlfloc tablet @15

0.5 oz - Centennial Type (AA 10) for 0 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil
0.5 oz - Willamette (AA 4.5) for 0 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil

1 oz - Cascade (AA 7) for 7 days, Type: Leaf/Whole, Use: Dry Hop
1 oz - Willamette (AA 4.5) for 7 days, Type: Leaf/Whole, Use: Dry Hop

MASH STEPS:
1) Temperature, Temp: 153 F, Time: 60 min, Amount: 8 qt
2) Sparge, Temp: 170 F, Amount: 8 qt

YEAST:
Fermentis / Safale - Safale - American Ale Yeast US-05

Thanks for all the advice and feedback guys. I have the day off tomorrow and will be brewing it then. I'll let you know in 6 weeks how it turns out. I plan on doing 10 days in the primary, 3 weeks in the secondary, and at least 2 weeks in the bottle although I'll probably crack one open after 1 week. My pumpkin ale has been in the bottle for a week so I'll probably crack one of those open tomorrow while brewing the new batch.

 

[wildnout14]

That looks really good.

 

[mttfrog13]

Just dry hopped with the ounce of willamette and ounce of cascade leaf hops. It looks a little dark in the fermentor, but I had poured some into a shot glass when I moved it into the secondary and I think I will come pretty close to the dark red/amber color.

 

[mttfrog13]

Also, I'm planning on brewing this Milk Stout next weekend after bottling the red rye ipa. Any thoughts on this recipe as well?

Brew Method: Partial Mash
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 5 gallons
Boil Size: 3 gallons
Estimated Efficiency: 65%

ESTIMATED STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.055
Final Gravity: 1.015
ABV (standard): 5.22%
IBU (tinseth): 24.75
SRM (morey): 36.98

FERMENTABLES:
3 lb - Dry Malt Extract - Light (33.3%)
1 lb - Milk Sugar (11.1%)
2.5 lb - Maris Otter (27.8%)
0.5 lb - Flaked Barley (5.6%)
0.5 lb - Simpson's Crystal 60L (5.6%)
0.5 lb - Fawcett Pale Chocolate 180L (5.6%)
0.5 lb - Briess Roasted Barley 300L (5.6%)
0.5 lb - Weyermann Carafa III 470L (5.6%)

HOPS:
1 oz - Willamette (AA 4.5) for 60 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil
1 oz - Kent Goldings (AA 5) for 60 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil

MASH STEPS:
1) Temperature, Temp: 155 F, Time: 60 min, Amount: 6.25 qt
2) Sparge, Temp: 170 F, Time: 0 min, Amount: 6.25 qt

YEAST:
Fermentis / Safale - Safale - English Ale Yeast S-04

 

[mttfrog13]

I just cracked on of these bad boys open and it's pretty good. I typically open one bottle at 1 week, 1 bottle after 2 weeks, then I put a 6 pack in the fridge for a week and then really start to dig in to the beer after 3 weeks.

One note on dry hopping.....I dry hopped with 2oz of leaf hops which I think may have not been fully effective with my procedure. The first time I dry hopped was with an extra pale ale and only 1oz. The surface area in the carboy was enough to let the hops get fully inundated with beer. In this case I feel like all of the hops didn't get soaked even though I (gently) swirled the carboy to sink them in a bit. There still appeared to be some "dry" hops sitting on top. I'm not sure what I'll do about this next time.

So after 1 week in the bottle, it pours into the glass with a 1 finger head. There is decent carbonation coming off the inside of the glass.

It doesn't really have a dark red amber color. It's more of a orangish/light brown bordering on amber color, but I'm still not certain whether I would need to go lighter or darker to get a red or amber color, probably darker I'm guessing tho. Looking at the glass, it's dark in the middle, and I'm not really even getting red on the sides of the glass where the light is coming through.

There's a slight sweet/malty aroma from all the rye I think, and then a very earthy hop aroma in the background. The earthy hop flavor/aroma is what I was hoping for(with the willamette).

As for the flavor, it's very sweet on the front of the tongue, and all the bitterness is very earthy and on the back of the tongue. The bitterness isn't biting the front/middle of my tongue (maybe since it's not fully carbonated) so it drinks smoothly, and feels more like hop "flavor" rather than bitterness. But the bitterness in the back of your tongue makes you want to pucker after taking a sip so that you get rid of the aftertaste.

After drinking a bit here, I'm not noticing much lacing on the glass at all. Hopefully that will improve as the beer gets fully carbonated.

I'll probably update this in a few weeks. I will probably brew this again in the spring, but I'm not sure what I would change if anything. I'm hoping that with age the hop flavor and bitterness develop a bit more. It's already is really good, so if it gets at all noticeably better (which it has to since it's only been bottle for a week), it will be absolutely delicious.