RIMS Temperature Measurement

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d_striker

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I've been reading through a bunch of old threads on here and it seems like the most logical place to measure the temperature in a direct fire RIMS setup is at the outlet ball valve.

What I can't find is how a thermometer is incorporated or configured in this manner. Does anyone have any pics of this type of thermo setup?
 
Like this?

Stainless 4-way cross with a plug in the end. Thermometer in the top with the probe sticking down into the flow of wort. Right on the end of my ball valve. Bargain Fittings is where I'm sure I purchased the material to build it.

MLT valve.jpg
 
Like this?

Stainless 4-way cross with a plug in the end. Thermometer in the top with the probe sticking down into the flow of wort. Right on the end of my ball valve. Bargain Fittings is where I'm sure I purchased the material to build it.

Exactly like that! Thanks! I was having a hard time visualizing it.

Could one use a T-fitting rather than the 4-way cross?
 
Exactly like that! Thanks! I was having a hard time visualizing it.

Could one use a T-fitting rather than the 4-way cross?

I tried that the first time, but I found that the probe of the thermometer would bottom out in the tee. That's why I went the route I did. But if you can find one short enough I don't see why not. Kal makes some sweet stuff don't he?
 
I tried that the first time, but I found that the probe of the thermometer would bottom out in the tee. That's why I went the route I did. But if you can find one short enough I don't see why not. Kal makes some sweet stuff don't he?

Duh. Makes sense.

How long is the probe on your thermometer in that pic?
 
I missed the thermometer part, thought we were talking temp probes to control your burner. The T probably won't work. And yeah Kal has an amazing system

ETA: WAIT!! You still could use the T just put it like you have it. You just don't have to use the plug
 
I tried that the first time, but I found that the probe of the thermometer would bottom out in the tee. That's why I went the route I did. But if you can find one short enough I don't see why not. Kal makes some sweet stuff don't he?

Huh? Why did you not just have the wort flow in the tee branch, and then the thermometer run straight through the tee. it would be exactly like the cross setup except the plug would not be needed.

ASCI explaination

........O
........|
wort->--|
........|
........-
 
I missed the thermometer part, thought we were talking temp probes to control your burner. The T probably won't work. And yeah Kal has an amazing system

ETA: WAIT!! You still could use the T just put it like you have it. You just don't have to use the plug

I.....don't.....know...... Damn. Just goes to show that another set of eyes are always a good thing. I've had this set up for years....and well, I never thought to just turn the damn tee on its side. Duh.....:( Oh, well. It still works. LMAO:p:mug:
 
I'm going to bite here... I'm not sure how your RIMS is setup, but mine draws off the bottom of a sanke keg, through a mechanical thermometer, through a pump, into a RIMS tube and back onto the top of the mash via an H manifold. I measure my mash temperature in the mash about two thirds the way down the keg, typically in the top half of the grain bed, using a J-type thermocouple hooked to an Omron EC5S PID Controller if I remember correctly, poking through a welded bulkhead in the side of the keg. I built my RIMS about twelve years ago, way before I was a member here, and good/bad or indifferent, it's produced some fine brew.

Some of you measure the temp in the outlet of the keg, some of you measure the temperature on the outlet of the RIMS tube. Are you not worried about temperature stratification in the MLT? What are some of the pro's and cons of measuring in different places?
 
I am more concerned about denaturing enzymes than stratification.

OK - if you mount the temperature probe at the outlet of the MLT, that means that it will be warmer than the set point temperature between the probe and RIMS tube. Once the element heats the liquid, it's cooling off until is goes by the element again and is heat is added again.

I know I'm probably only talking a couple of tenths of a degree tops, but stratification is also there and more of a problem unless you constantly stir. My PID thermocouple is in the top 1/3 of the grain bed and I have a mechanical thermometer on the outlet of the MLT. At a steady state, there is a couple of degrees difference between the top and the bottom, the top is hotter. When doing a temperature step, the top of the grain bed will heat faster than the bottom, but the bottom will finally catch up. These are all observations on my RIMS system.

If I had the temperature probe in the outlet of the MLT and mashed at 154f or 156f, I'd be a bit worried about denaturing enzymes because the liquid going through the RIMS tube could approach 170f. I'd rather have it at the outlet of the RIMS tube or in the mash itself.
 
OK - if you mount the temperature probe at the outlet of the MLT, that means that it will be warmer than the set point temperature between the probe and RIMS tube. Once the element heats the liquid, it's cooling off until is goes by the element again and is heat is added again.

I know I'm probably only talking a couple of tenths of a degree tops, but stratification is also there and more of a problem unless you constantly stir. My PID thermocouple is in the top 1/3 of the grain bed and I have a mechanical thermometer on the outlet of the MLT. At a steady state, there is a couple of degrees difference between the top and the bottom, the top is hotter. When doing a temperature step, the top of the grain bed will heat faster than the bottom, but the bottom will finally catch up. These are all observations on my RIMS system.

If I had the temperature probe in the outlet of the MLT and mashed at 154f or 156f, I'd be a bit worried about denaturing enzymes because the liquid going through the RIMS tube could approach 170f. I'd rather have it at the outlet of the RIMS tube or in the mash itself.

I don't have a controller or heating elements. I'm using a manual direct fired RIMS system.
 
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