RIMS Question to the crew

[Paul Russell]

I'm not into solving a problem that many of y'all have already completed... so got a few questions on the RIMS system. So final objective is to use RIMS system to hold more consistent temperature during my mash. I can use the hot liquor kettle to help get the strike water up to temp so not looking to boil. Questions below...

1. 120 or 240 for this situation? I have 110 in my brew cave, I'd have to get a electrician to do some work for a 220.
2. Controller, what's the best one? I'd like to consolidate to a single controller so I think a PID a better than a Johnson A419.
3. For the heating element, what are you using for the electrical connection or electrical box?


Thanks!

 

[RufusBrewer]

Sounds like you should visit brewhardware.com. That is a good place to start.

https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1893.htm

 

[Jtvann]

I'm not into solving a problem that many of y'all have already completed... so got a few questions on the RIMS system. So final objective is to use RIMS system to hold more consistent temperature during my mash. I can use the hot liquor kettle to help get the strike water up to temp so not looking to boil. Questions below...

1. 120 or 240 for this situation? I have 110 in my brew cave, I'd have to get a electrician to do some work for a 220.
2. Controller, what's the best one? I'd like to consolidate to a single controller so I think a PID a better than a Johnson A419.
3. For the heating element, what are you using for the electrical connection or electrical box?


Thanks!

If you’re only maintaining temps and not trying to boil or heat up a lot, 110 will work. PID would be my suggested way to go. Having the element turn on/off over and over can lead to big temp over shoots.

Brewhardware is where I’d suggest starting as well.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

240V, PID and hot water tank stainless steel heating element, 5500W, ripple ULWD

 

[mabrungard]

120v should be fine for maintaining temperature, but the higher voltage is better if you’re going to step up temperature. A Johnson 419 is not well suited for controlling a RIMS element. Get a PID unit.

I use normal dryer plugs for connecting my elements to the controller box.

 

[ITV]

Another vote for the BrewHardware RIMS. I have the inkbird PID controller and 120V RIMS. I can maintain my mash temps within 1 deg. F.

 

[doug293cz]

If you’re only maintaining temps and not trying to boil or heat up a lot, 110 will work. PID would be my suggested way to go. Having the element turn on/off over and over can lead to big temp over shoots.

Brewhardware is where I’d suggest starting as well.

Just to be clear, most of the PIDs used in homebrewing just turn the element on and off over a 1 or 2 second cycle time. The actual switching is done with an SSR. You can get more even heating control using an Auber Instruments EZBoil (DSPRxxx). The EZBoils use a different cycling method that gives effective cycle times of 0.017 sec to 0.15 seconds (depending on power output needed to maintain temp.) This will keep the element itself at a more even temperature. The high end EZBoil (DSPR320) does programmable step mashing. EZBoils also don't have to be tuned like PIDs need to be.

Brew on

 

[Bobo1898]

+1 on the Brewhardware RIMS. I have the 120v and it's been great. I use it to heat my strike water while I get everything ready. It maintains temps very well and have successfully executed step mashes without issue.

Like everyone else is saying, if you do intend to boil, 220/240v would be ideal unless you wanted to use two 120v elements.

 

[micraftbeer]

I use the Blichmann RIMS rocket 240v, and do a lot of step mashes. I like the rocket because it has such a large volume in and around the coil, seems much less likely to scorch.

I use the BrewCommander which has been awesome with the delayed timer start, programmable/automated mash profiles, and boil timer to prompt you for your additions.

I bought my BrewCommander through BrewHardware and they have the great options of changing the power lead over to 4-prong for my outlet, as well as swap it over to have wires all come out the bottom so I could wall mount it. Blichmann has price controls so it's the same price no matter who you buy it from, but those add on wiring services at BH are such a sweet convenience to add on.

 

[martyjhuebs]

This sounds well answered but I use a a two circuit 110v system (can't modify military housing for a 220v system). I use a stainless steel ULWD 240v running 1/4 of the wattage (110v) it works very well for me. No scorching and able to easily raise temperature of the entire mash.

Just a simple Inkbird PID wired directly to my homemade controller.