Right - little pump wide open = big pump throttled down 
fwiw at peak recirculation I'm running around 2 gpm. Using an 815...
Cheers!
fwiw at peak recirculation I'm running around 2 gpm. Using an 815...
Cheers!
RIMS exit temp vs mash temp
- Thread starter logdrum
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good post on relatively inexpensive flow meter... https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7832702&postcount=14
it's been worth every penny.
it's been worth every penny.
Here's mine!
Sorry... had to do it!
Sorry... had to do it!
Wow... I did not know that! I thought they were in the kernels. I assume then, that they flow out into the wort easily, because they aren't in the mashing water at the start?
processhead
Well-Known Member
They start out in the kernel. Water and raised temperature activate them and they they go into solution along with everything else that can dissolve in water.
Been brewing a while, but still appreciate the learning.
dyqik
Well-Known Member
Double post, thanks to the mobile app which always gives errors when posting.
dyqik
Well-Known Member
No, 12 liters per minute/3.5 GPM with the 24 V version.
dyqik
Well-Known Member
A sight glass is a perfectly good vacuum gauge for RIMS. And you probably want one of those anyway. You just adjust the flow so that there is still liquid in the sight glass.
SplitHops
Member
I ran with a RIMS tube same principal as the ROCKET for some time and contrary to what some say on this post, it is for heating as well. The rims tube is for recirculating and what good would it be if it can't heat during re-circulation?
I have since switched over to a HERMS coil system in a 25 gal. Stout kettle. During re circulation I found that I lose form the out feed on the herms coil to the mash kettle about 10 deg. The best part of this would be I never have a chance of scorching my wort over an exposed heating element as with the RIMS system. You may be simply experiencing a temperature loss in lines from your rims to the kettle, I know it sounds impossible but it happens.
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Have you run boiling wort thru this flowmeter, or only mash temp wort? Concerned about suitability for recirculating eBIAB.
Brew on
Have you run boiling wort thru this flowmeter, or only mash temp wort? Concerned about suitability for recirculating eBIAB.
Brew on
Very good point.... most rotameters out there, especially for 'water', are not rated for very high temps.
The one i use is rated for mash temps, but not boiling. You can get them rated higher but they are stoopid expensive.
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
the 12v ones pump just over 2 gpm the 24v ones pump just over 3 gpm.. I run my system at 1.5-1.8 gpm (on the flowmeter) when recircing through my rims with a 24v pump pulling through the grainbed.
And YES those big pumps are way overkill for using a rims in homebrewing scererios.
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
I have found that quite a bit of conversion already takes place by the 15 minute mark so I try to dough in as close as possible..
Could you link the model of your eletronic volume measurement? I searched it on your rig topic, but couldn't find.
Thanks in advance!
No. While this sensor was great and worked well, it was a binary output (On/Off) and required manual positioning. The variable sensor can read the volume at any level. I had to use the binary sensor with the previous control system, but my current one has the flexibility to read analog values.
bzomerlei
Well-Known Member
Rice hulls are your friend. I generally use 1/2# of hulls for 10# of grain, more if using rye or wheat. Very rare for me to get a stuck mash now using my RIMS system.
dyqik
Well-Known Member
Conditioning the grain before milling is another option. I now only need rice hulls if there's a significant portion of wheat (or rye I guess, but I haven't used rye).
Agree with ^^^ that!
What do you mean by conditioning? Is this in addition to the advanced malting methods used by most grain distributors today?
Are there any drawbacks to this? Are you suggesting additional rice hulls have no affect on the wort or final product?
Read this, and Kai's article linked therein.
http://www.********************/uncategorized/grain-conditioning/
Rice hills add nor subtract anything in terms of flavor. That said, with a conditioned grain and a proper crush, a moderately slow recirculation initially, you should not get stuck mashes.
Here is my crush last brew. 0.038" mill gap and conditioned grain. 60% barley, 40% white wheat. Note the intact husks.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1496852331.828553.jpg
Here is my crush last brew. 0.038" mill gap and conditioned grain. 60% barley, 40% white wheat. Note the intact husks.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1496852331.828553.jpg
dyqik
Well-Known Member
They don't affect the wort or the final product. The one reason I'm trying to avoid them sometimes is that I use spent grain for making bread and dog treats, and rice hulls are pretty nasty to chew on in bread (I haven't asked the dog for her opinion).
processhead
Well-Known Member
The point of adding rice hulls is they simulate the porous filtering effect provided by the shredded husks on the barley malt. That allows the wort to flow more easily through the mash during recirculation and the run-off.
All this helps to avoid the dreaded stuck run-off that results from a compacted grain bed.
Rice hulls are often recommended when your grain bill contains a grain with no husk like malted wheat.
Only benefits and no negative consequences that I am aware of. Husk are pretty inert for the most part.
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
well the additional waste and cost is a small consequence ... I tried them once myself and I could see how they could help but I havent needed them to avoid stuck sparges. my mash temps stay consistent even with the lowest flowing recirculations Ive seen at about 1-1.2gpm or so from rye and oats.. I crush at credit card thickness and average 86%
I generally agree, but recognize that rice hulls are full of silicate. I do believe that most of that silicate remains in the husk, but there is still a possibility to extract some. Every broken cell in the husk has a potential to release the silicate. High pH and low wort gravity tend to exacerbate silicate extraction.
I do try and limit the mass of rice hulls I add to a grist. I find that somewhere between 2 to 5 percent of the grist's mass can be added in the form of hulls for sticky grists with wheat or rye to avoid stuck mashes.
I use a SABCO hinged full false bottom. It is the same as the Jaybird ones. I mill at 0.045" and that allows for good flow.
processhead
Well-Known Member
I was not aware of the silicate content of rice husks. Under what conditions does extraction of silicate become a concern under actual brewing conditions?
I'll second this solution No need to make things overly complicated.
A sight glass right below my false bottom works extremely well as a (relative) flow gauge .
Ok -- so got to try my RIMS setup again today with a vacuum gauge and (duh) a thermometer inline.
Overall things went well. I did ALMOST end up with a stuck mash by getting overconfident with the pump (whoops). The vacuum gauge saved me big time here.
Question though -- I think I may still have overheated the wart just a little bit. This rubbed right off and the wort tasted right on, but I figured I'd ask if this level of "caramelizing" is normal for a RIMS?
-- by the way, the dark stuff is just wet, not charred or burnt.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1497244250.251734.jpg
Overall things went well. I did ALMOST end up with a stuck mash by getting overconfident with the pump (whoops). The vacuum gauge saved me big time here.
Question though -- I think I may still have overheated the wart just a little bit. This rubbed right off and the wort tasted right on, but I figured I'd ask if this level of "caramelizing" is normal for a RIMS?
-- by the way, the dark stuff is just wet, not charred or burnt.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1497244250.251734.jpg
That darkening looks problematic. I usually have a light whiteish, slightly slimy film on my RIMS element and it easily wipes off following the brew as long as you don't let it dry. I'm assuming its some sort of protein/carbohydrate film. I've have friends that didn't clean their elements after each brew and they developed 'smokey' flavor and aroma in all of their beers. Always clean your elements following a brew session.
Grain conditioning FTW! I've started doing steam conditioning, as described in this article:
http://beerandwinejournal.com/malt-conditioning/
I used to have problems with my Chugger pump being way too big for my system, but since discovering steam, I've completely forgotten to worry about it and let it chug merrily away.
processhead
Well-Known Member
What is the wattage of the element you are using in your RIMS tube?
1100 W @ 110
4600 W @ 220
I ran 110 for holding temps and then cutover to 220 for stepping up temps. I originally just tried the 110 to keep the WD down, but it took almost 40 minutes to step from 122-152 F (10 gallon batch).
