RIMS controller box build

[waverz]

I recently built a small 600 watt 120v DIY RIMS setup and have used it a couple times for testing but now I want to add more control as well as build a nice box to house the components involved in controlling the heat and pump speed.

Here are a few of the components in the aluminum project box as well as a quick simple wiring diagram.

I'll be using a Rex C100 pid controller paired with a ssr to control the heating element. To control the pump speed I will be using a PWM circuit purchased from ebay. Inside the box will also be an ac/dc converter circuit I also purchased from ebay.

The front of the box will contain the pid display, manual override stitches for both the pump and heater as well as led indicator lights to show when the heater and pump are on.

The rear of the box will contain the 120v plug for the main power supply, a main power rocker switch and fuse. It will also have a dc barrel connector to plug in the pump as well as a standard 120 female outlet that will power the heating element. There will also be a female panel mount thermocouple jack.

Things are going to be pretty tight in the box but I think everything will fit.

I've built a few other temp controllers for other projects but they have always been low budget, simple, and were based on function over form. I'm hoping to take my time with this project and make it look nice.

I started working on a wiring diagram to help me figure out what other components I need to purchase. It's not finished but gives an idea of how everything I think everything should be wired.

Please feel free to let me know if there is something I'm missing oiut doesn't look like it would work.

I know I need to add the manual on/off switch to the heating element yet but obviously need a larger terminal block to add that.

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[crane]

You don't want to put LEDs in series with loads. if you are using a panel mount LED device that is meant for AC then it will contain a current limiting resistor that only let's milli amps of current through. Your pump would not turn on, nor would any heat come from the element. If you are using a discrete LED then you need to add the current limiting resistor otherwise the LED will burn up the first time you turn it on. Put the LEDs in parallel with their loads.

You may already be aware but you should use a connector made for the specific type of thermocouple (k, j, etc) you will be using. Otherwise you may see inaccuracies in your temperature measurements that will vary as the temperature of the PID pcb and the connector change.

Also make sure you are using a GFCI protection.

 

[Mtn_Brewer]

Here's how I did it with a metal tool box from Home Depot. The top left bottom turns on the main power and 5" computer fan on the left side of the box. The top right switch turns on the March pump that is partially contained in the box. The top front switch turns on the PID and the bottom front switch turns on the heating element. The fan vents out the back after blowing past the SSR that sits on a heat sink and the March pump exhaust. Its never overheated once. It's all wired so the fan must be on for anything else to power up. The pump and PID must be on in order to power up the heating element. This is done for safety and to prevent scalding. Also, having the dial thermometer let's you see the input while the PID measures the output. Works like a charm.

 

[JKoravos]

Why are you controlling pump speed via PWM? I assume this is a DC pump, but I didn't see that in your description.

 

[Mtn_Brewer]

The March pump flow is controlled by the ball valve on the ouput side, as it should be. Wide open, the flow is about 6 gal/min. I use a Blichmann with a false bottom. At that speed, a stuck mash is pretty common. I mash in and let the grain bed settle for 10 minutes. I then turn on the pump and slowly increase the flow until I get about 1-1.5 gal/min, which has worked well. With a RIMS setup, a stuck mash can spell disaster. If flow stalls, the heating element will scald the wort in the RIMS tube and ruin most any beer. This happened to me once early. Fortunately, it turned a chile beer into a chipotle beer, which was hugely popular.

 

[thekraken]

I think JKoravos was referring to OP when they asked about using PWM to control the pump.

I assume from the drawing that they are using a DC pump too. If not, OP, march and chugger pumps arn't designed to be run on PWM. You would want a output valve like Mtn_brewer.

Also, +1 to needing to put the LED's in parallel with the load.