Request for Brutus 10'ers

[mobrewdude]

I purchased the plans for the Brutus 10 and have the majority of the build sorted out but lacking a little understanding on the kettle set-up and the plans are a bit vague in this area.
I'll be using 15.5 gal SS pots and planning to stick with weldless fittings. I like the idea of plumbing the returns in through the lids so they can be swapped around although I'm not completely set on this if there's a better way.

I'm having a hard time getting my head wrapped around the actual plumbing design for returns from the pumps.

In the MLT, if I use a simple tube for mash returns how far down do I extend it? Does this run the risk of aeration if I make it too short? Does this disturb the grain bed during sparge if it's too long? Is there something better than a simple tube?

In the HLT, do I use a sparge arm-type manifold attached to the lid for returns and then simply swap that lid to the MLT during sparge?

I guess pictures of what other people are sucessfully using for returns on the MLT and HLT would be easiest to understand.

Any help is greatly appreciated

 

[mobrewdude]

I stumbled into the Brutus 10 youtube videos by Lonnie Mac and that answered most of my questions. I guess the only remaining question, is everyone using the prescribed curved return tube in the lid of the MLT or are people using something else? It seems there must be someone OCD enough to worry about hot-side-aeration that they're doing something different for returns... or is this a non-issue?

 

[Kirch3333]

If you're worried about the hot side aeration you could just add a short length of silicone tubing to the underside of the lid that can help gently return the wort to the mash bed

 

[pilzner]

Look at the "show me your brew sculpture".... Lots of ideas.
Here is mine. It's the brutus 10 on steroids
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/its-alive-287229/

 

[mobrewdude]

If you're worried about the hot side aeration you could just add a short length of silicone tubing to the underside of the lid that can help gently return the wort to the mash bed

That is kind of the direction I was thinking unless someone had another idea. I might be overthinking the whole thing, I was just worried about disturbing the grain bed but I guess it would not be a problem at all to kill the pump and burner on the mash tun for the last 10 minutes or so of the mash. That should give the grain bed plenty of time to settle and the mash temp shouldn't drop more than a degree or two in that brief time, so I think the mash, especially at the end, would be unaffected... unless someone knows better

 

[mobrewdude]

Look at the "show me your brew sculpture".... Lots of ideas.
Here is mine. It's the brutus 10 on steroids
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/its-alive-287229/

Wow! slick build!

 

[beerinasippicup]

Here is what Im working on now. More for amusement than education, but you may be able to grab some ideas from what I did. Im thinking of making a "directors cut" with lots of talking points (the way I filmed it). Anywhooo...Enjoy!