Removing a soldered ferrule

[ryanj]

I discovered that the 1.5" TC ferrule I soldered onto my HLT has a hairline crack somewhere in the solder that is causing an extremely slow leak. This was my first stainless solder job and I think what ultimately happened is I didn't apply enough flux between the wall of my kettle and the face of the ferrule (I have one of these: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15rsf.htm).

I already added more solder once to plug an earlier leak, so I'm leaning towards removing the ferrule completely and either resoldering it or getting a standard 1.5" TC ferrule that I can pull through with a dimpling tool like this: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ptbulkhead_tool15tc.htm

I already have 5 other dimpled bulkheads soldered on this vessel and they came out perfect, so I really need to make this work.

Suggestions?

 

[day_trippr]

Given sufficient heat with the same torch you used to install the ferrule it should come free. After that you'll need to clean up any remaining solder - heat it up and use a damp towel and welder's gloves or similar protection and you should be able to wipe off nearly all of the solder and flux. Eventually you should get to where some light touch up with virgin emory cloth (ie: not used elsewhere).

At that point the idea of using Bobby's pull-through solution would be in your interest to pursue. That style supports a substantially larger fillet hence a stronger joint....

Cheers!

 

[ryanj]

Given sufficient heat with the same torch you used to install the ferrule it should come free. After that you'll need to clean up any remaining solder - heat it up and use a damp towel and welder's gloves or similar protection and you should be able to wipe off nearly all of the solder and flux. Eventually you should get to where some light touch up with virgin emory cloth (ie: not used elsewhere).

At that point the idea of using Bobby's pull-through solution would be in your interest to pursue. That style supports a substantially larger fillet hence a stronger joint....

Cheers!

That was my exact (hopeful) plan. I figured maybe just hang the kettle with the ferrule point toward the floor and heat it up until it drops.

I really like the new pull through ferrules. And knowing how strong the joint is on my other pull through bulkheads, I definitely want to go that route next time around.

Thanks for the confirmation.

 

[day_trippr]

Ah - I missed that you used those for the other fittings.
I think you'll do just fine - you're already experienced

Cheers!

 

[ryanj]

Ah - I missed that you used those for the other fittings.
I think you'll do just fine - you're already experienced

Cheers!

Actually. Scratch that. I had to drill a 1-3/8” hole for the radiused ferrule. The pull through ferrules require a smaller 1-1/4” hole. I guess I’m stuck cleaning up one I have and trying again.

I had much better luck the second kettle I soldered and that ferrule looks perfect and is water tight.

 

[ryanj]

Good news. Yesterday I disassembled the innards of my HLT, and put my torch to the flange until it fell off. I was able to wipe most of the solder off pretty easily and then I took wire wheel to the kettle and flange to clean them back up to a shine. It was clear after removing the flange that I did not get enough flux between the kettle and flange because the solder didn't fully penetrate the gap.

This time I sandwiched some solder between the flange and the kettle as I clamped it on tight. Heated it up. Added some more solder around the side, and Bob's your uncle.

The kettle has been sitting for 24 hours with no signs of a leak, so it looks like I'm in the clear.

 

[AkTom]

You know what they say in in the oil drilling business...
Another well job done.