Recipe HELP (last hops and yeast about to expire)

[nettimar]

Hi everyone

I´m new in brewing, and do some experimets before
in my country (Colombia) we have no hops and poor quality yeast
so, i buy several hops and yeast in the USA in order to do my experiments.

some of the experiments gone wrong, almost a rare type of poison,
the others are pretty decent.

now i have this hops and yeast about to expire
the hops have several months in pellets, whitout frezzing
the death line for the yeast is (01-2014).

The problem is, i dont want to lose this materials, here this things are rare,
also i have some malt, 15Kg of Pilsen, 1Kg of Caramel and 1kg of Chocolat

I asked a friend via email for a recipie, and he sendme this

American Pale ALE:

ingredients:
4 kg Malt pilsen
200gr Malt caramel
100 gr de malta chocolat

Hops:
21 grams hops (4,4 AA%) 60 min
21 grams hops (4,4 AA%) 30 min
21 grams hops (4,4 AA%) 5 min

total IBUS 25
Stard density:1.046
Finish density:1.012
ABV:4.53%
SRM:12.67

so, i need your help, because i only have this hops
HOP Pellet (alpha%) qt:
Nugget (14,3) 1oz
U.K. Pilgrim (11) 1oz
U.K. Northern Brewer "Northdown" (9,4) 1oz
Willamette (4,8) 1oz
German Hallertau (3,9) 1oz
Cascade (3,2) 1oz
U.K. Fuggle (4,3) 1oz
German Tettnang (3,5) 1oz
Czech Saaz (4,0) 1oz

And this yeast:
Safebrew S-33 four bags of 11,5g each
Mountain Yeast: nine bags of 6gr each

Your mission brewmaster, should you decide to accept it
is help me to transform this ingredients in order to make 80 Liters of something drinkable

Kind regards

Nett

 

[chickypad]

Okay I'll play. How about this for three 20 liter batches that will use up most of your ingredients. I don't know your efficiency so this is set for 72% because that's Beersmith default. I also don't know the color of your crystal so for purposes of calculations I went with 40 L. I did use the AA's for the hops that you listed. I'd probably use 3 packets each of the Muntons and 2 packets of S-33 for the Belgian (don't actually have any experience with either of those yeasts so going by description for the styles).


#1 Pale ale:

Estimated OG: 1.054 SG
Estimated Color: 7.0 SRM
Estimated IBU: 41.5 IBUs
4.50 kg Pilsner
0.40 kg Caramel Malt
21.00 g Nugget [14.30 %] - Boil 60.0 min
28.00 g Willamette [4.80 %] Boil 10.0 min
28.00 g Cascade [3.20 %] - Boil 0.0 min
Munton's yeast

#2 Brown ale

Estimated OG: 1.052 SG
Estimated Color: 21.5 SRM
Estimated IBU: 30.3 IBUs
4.00 kg Pilsner
0.50 kg Caramel Malt
0.20 kg Chocolate Malt
14.00 g Northdown [9.40 %] - Boil 60.0 min
28.00 g Fuggles [4.30 %] - Boil 30.0 min
14.00 g Northdown [9.40 %] - Boil 5.0 min
Munton's yeast

#3 Belgian Golden ale

Estimated OG: 1.081 SG
Estimated Color: 4.2 SRM
Estimated IBU: 27.5 IBUs
5.50 kg Pilsner
1.00 kg Table sugar
28.00 g Hallertauer [3.90 %] - Boil 60.0 min
28.00 g Tettnang [3.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min
14.00 g Saaz [4.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min
14.00 g Saaz [4.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min
S-33 yeast

If I counted right this only leaves you with a kilo of pilsner, 100g caramel, 800g chocolate and your oz of Pilgrim hops plus a few packets of yeast. If that Belgian is too big for your tastes you could probably split that into two lower gravity blonde ales using up the rest of the pilsner.

 

[johns]

Just a thought on your yeast. I have done some on-line browsing on the muttons and what I have found is that its best used with dry malt extract (DME), or liquid malt extract (LME). I would not use this yeast for anything else, because if you do your wort will stall and there is no possible way to restart a stall with what you have there.

I dont have any experience with the type of Safale yeast mentioned, however I would definitely use that first. For dry yeast I personally use S 03, S 04, and my all time goto is Nottingham by Danastar.

I also agree with Chickypad Belgian Golden Ale. Personally I would be scarred to use the Muntons on anything except an extract brew.

For the purpose of experimentation, I would use the Safale yeast on the pale and brown ale.

Also there is a calculator out there that will help you with the calculations of how much water and grain to use in your brew. Its on an aussie website somewhere and its metric which might be useful for you, or PM me and I can send a copy.

Colombia is a beautiful country BTW. Nice weather, beaches, mountains, rain forest and good looking girls.

As a side note; meads are really easy to make, but require patients.

 

[chickypad]

Just a thought on your yeast. I have done some on-line browsing on the muttons and what I have found is that its best used with dry malt extract (DME), or liquid malt extract (LME). I would not use this yeast for anything else, because if you do your wort will stall and there is no possible way to restart a stall with what you have there. .

This is making no sense. If anything, extract brewers complain that their brews finish higher than expected due to the low fermentability of the extract. At least with all grain you can control your mash parameters to tailor a more fermentable wort. The yeast may have a tendency to stall, as I said I have no experience with it, but if anything you should be better off doing all grain.

My understanding from online descriptions is that S-33 is a yeast for Belgian styles, with some spiciness and phenols. Not sure if it's true in practice as I've always used liquid yeast for those styles, but that is why I was thinking the Munton's would be better for the pale and brown ales.

 

[johns]

At my closest HBS, Two Brothers (yes they do have a HBS on the premises of their brewery as well as a restaurant), they only use Muntons in their kits. I have only brewed a kit once and it did not contain Muntons. I think it was a Best Beer kit. There are several threads on this board that disparage the use of Muntons in an all grain brew. Comments like bad attenuation, bad flocculation, slow starting, and finishes high, or sweet, are some of the comments that have been written here.

I would hate for the OP to brew his first batch and be disappointed with it, to the point of not brewing anymore. For a few extra dollars, its best to be safe than sorry. However, as for the purpose of experimentation using Muntons in a 4 litter batch might not be a bad idea, just to see how it goes.

 

[nettimar]

Thats amazing! thanks a lot! guys you are the best!

i will do the solomonic brewing since i have only 4 bags of S-33,
then, 10 liters of pale ale will use S-33 and the other 10 liters use Munton's
same thing with the brown ale, and we'll see how it evolves.

i have this stupid smile now...

Kind regards

 

[nettimar]

Hi

we already make the pale ale, and i like to show you and say THANKS!

tomorrow we will make the brown ale and start the bottle fermentation of the pale ale.

kind regards

Nett

 

[johns]

Looks good

Can I recommend the wort chill have a neck and curved downward. It seems to work better when you stir it.

Everything else looks spot on.

Next time I am in colombia we will have to brew together

 

[nettimar]

Hi

we already make the brown ale, we change the tea bag "sorry about your blanket gandma!"
i will upload some pictures, the fermentation is OK.

also we buy everything we need to make two automated BIAB systems
and one automated HERMS system.

Next time I am in colombia we will have to brew together

of course!

Kind regards