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Need help determining mill gap setting (I use an all-in-one brewer) - Thanks
First crush:
Second setting:
First crush:
Second setting:
Rate My Crush
- Thread starter mbg
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both look pretty good to me. 
Spundit
Insert Witty Comment Here
I dont see a lot of difference between the two. First one looks to have more flour but hard to tell from a small sample of the total. They both look like my typical crush so I approve. If I had to pick one I would pick the second.
It looks like a fine crush. Maybe a bit finer than the textbook might recommend. Many of us have started crushing finer with no ill effects just a little better mash efficiency. Too fine a crush can slow your sparge so that is one tradeoff.
It looks like a fine crush. Maybe a bit finer than the textbook might recommend. Many of us have started crushing finer with no ill effects just a little better mash efficiency. Too fine a crush can slow your sparge so that is one tradeoff.
There ain't much difference to be discerned...
One wonders what the gap difference was - I'm betting a couple thousandths
Cheers!
One wonders what the gap difference was - I'm betting a couple thousandths
Cheers!
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Thanks for the replies.
I purposely didn't post the gap but the first is at 0.025" and the second at 0.035". I think it's hard to judge milled grain with a photo. In person there was lots of power in the bottom of the bucket for the smaller gap.
I milled this with my new Crankandstein 3GT (all three rollers geared). The crush with this 3GT seems to be a finer compared to a similar gap on a 2-roller non-geared mill. Thinking of brewing next week and may stick with the 0.035". Others have commented this too - at 0.025" gap seems like the torque is going to tear the thing apart!
I purposely didn't post the gap but the first is at 0.025" and the second at 0.035". I think it's hard to judge milled grain with a photo. In person there was lots of power in the bottom of the bucket for the smaller gap.
I milled this with my new Crankandstein 3GT (all three rollers geared). The crush with this 3GT seems to be a finer compared to a similar gap on a 2-roller non-geared mill. Thinking of brewing next week and may stick with the 0.035". Others have commented this too - at 0.025" gap seems like the torque is going to tear the thing apart!
Beautiful!
What is your mash/sparge/lauter system? Conventional with fly sparge, batch sparging, or BIAB?
Mill some wheat or rye malt too, by itself, to get an idea of the crush it gives you at 0.035" vs. 0.025". You may or may need to tighten the gap for those smaller kernel malts (wheat, rye, and such) but most definitely for oat malt, those skinny needles with leathery husks...
Given the similar results, minus the extra powder, that's where I would start too, at this point. And see how it goes.
What is your mash/sparge/lauter system? Conventional with fly sparge, batch sparging, or BIAB?
Mill some wheat or rye malt too, by itself, to get an idea of the crush it gives you at 0.035" vs. 0.025". You may or may need to tighten the gap for those smaller kernel malts (wheat, rye, and such) but most definitely for oat malt, those skinny needles with leathery husks...
AZ Maverick
Well-Known Member
I mill with a Hullwrecker, single pass at .028".
That seems to work well for me BIAB.
That seems to work well for me BIAB.
careful, i mill at 28 too, i might try and steal your crush! j/k
round cooler, bazooka tube...
Seems to live up to its name: all hulls are totally wrecked!
Man, that's one evenly, finely milled grist! Great for BIAB, I agree. Don't even try fly sparging that...
say what? i could so fly sparge that, or what ever you call the old school colander way.....
Sorry Sir, no way!
The colander will work, but nothing will come out the bottom of the tun. I even doubt a batch sparge won't plug up like a freshly poured cement pad.
AZ Maverick
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I only do single infusion 90 minute mashes with no sparge.
I seem to be able get usable results and hit my numbers using that technique.
I suppose I could improve my efficiency a bit if I sparged but honestly, I just don't want to mess with it...
You said you use an all in one system. Does it recirculate?
If so, you might consider crushing substantially coarser. Recirculating systems work better when there's more porosity in the grain bed because it reduces channeling. For example I use a Spike 3v system and I've found that a crush of 0.050 is ideal for me.
If so, you might consider crushing substantially coarser. Recirculating systems work better when there's more porosity in the grain bed because it reduces channeling. For example I use a Spike 3v system and I've found that a crush of 0.050 is ideal for me.
I'm willing to bet that mash is done in 30' (45' tops!) with a grist like that. Just stir it every 5 minutes.
now that i have a $30 used camera from 2006, which is aparently better then a new $30 camera? i take that as a challenge! i bet it would clog up a batch sparge but when you're running it slow fly sparging! no problem, expect some pictures in the main thread! you know the definitive one! lol
AZ Maverick
Well-Known Member
LOL - I'm lucky if I can remember to stir it every 20 minutes...
I guess I need to be a little more attentive - but I'm loving my results!!!
What is your mash efficiency with that?
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Yes - it’s an Anvil Foundry and I use my RipTide pump and a brew bag with a false bottom. Guess time to experiment.
DuncB
Well-Known Member
I'd do a comparison between conditioned grain for those two gaps as well and see if you get any difference. I use 2% weight of grain sprayed on and mixed up as I spray it. Leave for up to an hour. Many people say less time is sufficient you only want the hulls to get damp.
I have a 3 roller and 3 vessel RIMS system. My gap is .05 - .055 which works best for me.
I've gone to a conditioned grain milled at 0.032. I add 1 lb of pre-rinsed and drained rice hulls (for a 12 gal. batch) just to ensure I don't get a stuck sparge. (I also recirc during mash in my 3VE brewery). So far, it has worked very well.
I'd mash that...
Also, I don't stir during the mash. BIAB full-volume mash is thin and more efficient, so I only stir thoroughly at the beginning, then again at mash out and I reliably hit my numbers.
Also, I don't stir during the mash. BIAB full-volume mash is thin and more efficient, so I only stir thoroughly at the beginning, then again at mash out and I reliably hit my numbers.
This needs to be on my wall in a picture frame
Stolen for my signature quote - with your blessing of course
