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apparently brass can contain trace amounts of lead, which you may not want in contact with your acidic wort...that being said, i have a buddy who has a brass NTP fitting inside his mashtun, and it's never caused any issues (that we know of yet...).

plastic - well obviously it's much more susceptible to scratches/nicks/dents type damage that could then harbour lots of gross nasties, and infect your beer.

obviously SS can be the most durable, sanitary and safe to use...i'm sure other use brass, as well as plastic. It comes down to what risks you want to take in your brewhouse for a few bucks.

cheers!
 
Hi, thanks! Yea I did some further reading, and I think I'm gonna go with my gut and spend the extra cash on the SS. Thanks for the response!
 
xpops said:
I also use SS camlocks and love them!
Click to expand...

After screwing around with barbs and clamps for a few years I became aware of Camlocks through one of Bobby's vids. With the development and availability of high flow types like the Big C and the BL, it became a no-brainer. :smack:

Full 1/2" with Camlocks all the way!
 
Quick question....I know I'll be using the "F" Type threaded male to connect to the ball valve on my kettles, then it mentions "C" type female but the website is kind of dodgy about it. I'm not sure which is the appropriate one to use. Which two types are you guys using?
 
The Big C is the female coupling you want to go on the end of a hose and mate to a type F male fitting.
 
Thanks! That's where I purchased from last night. Not sure what the diff was between ss-304 and regular ss... But the big C was ss-304 also so I went with the same on the type f.
 
xpops said:
I use this one on end of my hoses http://www.camlock-fittings.com/hom...ype-c-stainless-steel-homebrew-couplings.html

I use this one on the end on my 3pc ball valves and CFWC http://www.camlock-fittings.com/hom...ype-f-stainless-steel-homebrew-couplings.html
Click to expand...

The Type C is very flow restrictive. Hence the introduction of the Big C, basically as machined down Type B. You can stretch a 1/2" silicone hose over the single barb of the Big C, and put a band clamp over it. Been using those for years, without any failure.

I've stretched 1/2" braided vinyl hose over the BL successfully, after heating it up in boiling water. They connect to the water side of the plate chiller, which has 1/2" NPT studs with a Type A on top.

Most of us put males on equipment and females on hoses. But you're free to mount things anyway it works for you. :D
 
xpops said:
apparently brass can contain trace amounts of lead, which you may not want in contact with your acidic wort...that being said, i have a buddy who has a brass NTP fitting inside his mashtun, and it's never caused any issues (that we know of yet...).
Click to expand...

Lead is only an issue if you live in California. The rest of us are fine.
 
Dextersmom said:
On the big C that band clamp necessary or just a precaution?
Click to expand...

I find clamps necessary. If you've ever had a hose pop off a barb you'll be convinced too.

To prevent the silicone hose from being chewed up by regular worm clamps, the serrations bite into it, use of band clamps is recommended. They're smooth on the inside, since the "band" extends below the worm mechanism and serrated area. They're also a bit wider, given a more even distribution of the clamping force.

I've been using them for over 5 years now, like that, still all the original hoses and fittings. After all that time I see a little tearing develop on some of the hoses where they meet the clamp, but it's only on the surface. One day I may cut that half inch off and remount.

The hoses get thoroughly cleaned by recirculating boiling PBW through them for an hour or more every 4-6 brews or when I find it necessary. Cleans the plate chiller and pump at the same time.
 
Dextersmom said:
Thanks! That's where I purchased from last night. Not sure what the diff was between ss-304 and regular ss... But the big C was ss-304 also so I went with the same on the type f.
Click to expand...

There's a (small) difference regarding corrosion resistance between 304 and 316 SS, the latter being the more durable kind. In our homebrewing environment either is fine. I have both kinds in use, never seen a difference.
 
IslandLizard said:
I find clamps necessary. If you've ever had a hose pop off a barb you'll be convinced too.

To prevent the silicone hose from being chewed up by regular worm clamps, the serrations bite into it, use of band clamps is recommended. They're smooth on the inside, since the "band" extends below the worm mechanism and serrated area. They're also a bit wider, given a more even distribution of the clamping force.

I've been using them for over 5 years now, like that, still all the original hoses and fittings. After all that time I see a little tearing develop on some of the hoses where they meet the clamp, but it's only on the surface. One day I may cut that half inch off and remount.

The hoses get thoroughly cleaned by recirculating boiling PBW through them for an hour or more every 4-6 brews or when I find it necessary. Cleans the plate chiller and pump at the same time.
Click to expand...

This will be my first foray into silicone, with my new brewery setup. Silicone easier to get over fittings then the standard racking tubing I'm used to using? ... Been doing extract and partial mash with small boils for 8 years. Finally in a position where I can upgrade to a full SS setup from Ss Brewtech...fully enclosed system after the boil. So pumped to get it all together.
 
Silicone is pretty soft, but 1/8" walls make it sturdy. It takes a little effort to get it over the 1/2" single barb of the Big C or BL, about the same as braided vinyl tubing. Take your time. It is easier to damage the silicone than vinyl, it's cutting/tearing resistance is much lower. With a bit of care they'll last many, many years.
 

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