Question about wart cooling

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Mikelush78

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When I am cooling my wart I use my wart chiller. I have found that it cools much faster if I stir the wart. However I am not sure if that is hurting me in the long run of trying to get clear beer?

Should I be stirring the wart to help cool it faster or should I let the wart chiller do that job and let it take a little longer?
 
I don't stir mine until it gets to 110F or lower. Hot side aeration and all that. Of course whether or not this is even a thing is up for debate.
 
Ok thanks, any tricks you have on getting clear beer int he End?

I don't use any additives to help clear the beer. I make sure that fermentation is complete and cold crash the beer before bottling\kegging for a few days. This will help the heavier particles drop to the bottom.
 
1) For clarification purposes, it's "wort," not "wart."
2) Add 1 tsp of Irish Moss to your boil with 10 minutes remaining.
3) Use a hop screen (tall, cylindrical tube) to contain hop and its gunk during the boil.
4) Use a filter over the outlet port (like a Hop Stopper) to filter wort on its way out to the fermenter.
5) Allow the beer 3 weeks to fully ferment out.
6) After fermentation, cold-crash for a day or two, then add 1 cup of gelatin mixture (1 tsp gelatin sprinkled in 1 cup of cool water for 20 minutes, then heated to 150° F and stirred to fully dissolve), give it another 3-4 days to do its work.

Those steps should result in consistently clear beer.
 
I agree with what others have said above, except I have never used gelatin. I do use Whirlfloc (similar to Irish Moss) in the boil. I've found with my beers (kegging) that time and patience clears all cloudyness. I've built up a nice pipeline that allows me to just let the beer sit in primary for three weeks. When that's over, I transfer to a keg and let that sit until a spot opens up. Usually, this is another 2-3 weeks, depending on how often I have been brewing.

After tapping, I let it chill and carb up for at least a week. Then I pull a pint. The first 2 are a little cloudy as it pulles up the sediment on the bottom. After than though, I have yet to have a beer on tap that isn't at least as clear as any commercial craft brew on the market. Most, I would say, you couldn't tell if it were filtered or not.

I actually do like the idea of the gelatin trick, it seems to work nice for a lot of people. I've just found taht by giving my beer 5 weeks of just sitting around. Most everything has cleared out. I'm sure it helps that I've stepped up to getting 6 gallons into the fermenter. This allows me a little extra beer, when transferring from primary to keg or secondary carboy, to never disturb the yeast cake at the bottom of the fermenter. I'm probably wasting about a pint to a quart at the bottom, but not sucking any of that risidual gunk into the next vessel also helps to continue to clear the beer.

I think over all, my biggest lesson I've learned since I started homebrewing, is patience. It's amazing how nice things turn out when you don't find yourself in a hurry, trying to rush your beer.
 
1) For clarification purposes, it's "wort," not "wart."
2) Add 1 tsp of Irish Moss to your boil with 10 minutes remaining.
3) Use a hop screen (tall, cylindrical tube) to contain hop and its gunk during the boil.
4) Use a filter over the outlet port (like a Hop Stopper) to filter wort on its way out to the fermenter.
5) Allow the beer 3 weeks to fully ferment out.
6) After fermentation, cold-crash for a day or two, then add 1 cup of gelatin mixture (1 tsp gelatin sprinkled in 1 cup of cool water for 20 minutes, then heated to 150° F and stirred to fully dissolve), give it another 3-4 days to do its work.

Those steps should result in consistently clear beer.

I do only #2 and #5 in this list. (Well, #1 too). I also get consistently clear beer.
 

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