question about tri-clamp endcap thickness

[Budzu]

I am working on some 240v heatsticks. I'm using 2" tri-clamp fittings, and I have a question:

How thick are 2" TC "endcaps"? I can't find anywhere with specs. I'm talking about the actual thickness of the metal. Is it thin enough to make a hole in it with a conduit hole puncher? I have a 1 3/8" greenlee hole punch. Thanks in advance!

 

[Sawdustguy]

I did a google search on "tri clover end cap dimensions" and came up with this PDF file: http://www.cpesystems.com/data/WebSite/biopharm/biopharm-CAT.pdf. If you look at page 28 you will find you answer. It was the second link on the first page on Google.

 

[WPStrassburg]

I'd say they are close to 3/16"-1/4" and even if not that thick way too thick for a punch. I made my own endcap with a short ferrule and a piece of 20 ga ss welded to it, which would make it easy to punch and weld/solder a lock nut to.

 

[ScubaSteve]

Yer gonna need a vise and a step bit. That's some burly stainless. FWIW, you can use a 2"TCx1" FPT adapter and screw the fitting in, using teflon tape and/or silicone sealant. It's more expensive, but works well. Are you planning on submerging the whole apparatus, or will the wiring be out of the water?

 

[Budzu]

Yer gonna need a vise and a step bit. That's some burly stainless. FWIW, you can use a 2"TCx1" FPT adapter and screw the fitting in, using teflon tape and/or silicone sealant. It's more expensive, but works well. Are you planning on submerging the whole apparatus, or will the wiring be out of the water?

It will have a long rod containing the wiring with an elbow and cordgrip out of the water.
I did get some 2x1" tcxFPT adapters from St. Pats. They are not going to work as is, because the thread taper is designed to screw something in from the wrong side for my application. Also it isn't even threaded all the way through, so to screw an element into it would require machining down the lip on the inside. Either that or retapping the thread all the way through with a NPS tap. I don't have anything like that.

 

[Sawdustguy]

It will have a long rod containing the wiring with an elbow and cordgrip out of the water.
I did get some 2x1" tcxFPT adapters from St. Pats. They are not going to work as is, because the thread taper is designed to screw something in from the wrong side for my application. Also it isn't even threaded all the way through, so to screw an element into it would require machining down the lip on the inside. Either that or retapping the thread all the way through with a NPS tap. I don't have anything like that.

The adapter I got from klgstainless.com allowed me to thread an element into it.

 

[Budzu]

The adapter I got from klgstainless.com allowed me to thread an element into it.

So that means you can screw your element in from either side? This is for a stick so it will screw in on the opposite side it would for a RIMS or a through-kettle-wall bulkhead.
I've looked at KLG and unfortunately they don't have the right adapter at the moment to check out.