Yes that is true. Space considerations and clearance don't allow that in my case. But there is also less than 1C differential between the temperature of the copper in my fridge and at the top of the tower so I'm not worried about it in my case.
Can someone see if they can tell where I went wrong? I'm on my third attempt at a copper pipe setup on my new kegerator... and am running out of money and patients on getting a perfect pour every time.
I have two pieces of 1/2" copper pipe running up as close as possible to the shank, and as far into the kegerator as possible. I have wrapped each pipe in PVC pipe insulation tape, wrapped that in the best foam insulation I could find, then wrapped that again in the PVC pipe insulation tape. I left a lot of extra foam at the top, to fill the entire void between my shanks and the cap on the tower, and have the insulation going down to right where the pipes enter the kegerator. The pipes extend down 5-6" then I have a T connection where a ridiculous amount of copper extends back to the cooling plate and then across it to the fan. I couldn't fit more copper, or more insulation. There is no exposed copper anywhere outside of the fridge.
Brad, how are you only seeing 1C (I assume that's one degree?) difference from the inside of the kegerator and the top of the tower. I'm reading 34 degrees inside, and 58 degrees at the top... I saw it drop to about 48 up top, when I turned on "Deep Chill" (just the fan staying on and trying to cool to 32) and ran it all night, but my salesman said it can freeze my keg.
I JUST learned as much as I was able to comprehend on "balancing my system" and I have 40" of 3/16" ID vinyl beer line, at 8psi, with and Stone IPA (2.3 CO2 volume?)... STILL getting a gnarly first pour. I cannot figure out what I'm doing wrong.
Anyone seeing a flaw in my system? If so, please dumb down your answer as much as possible I'm just an alcoholic, and not a pro, on this most nobel quest.
Thanks
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