Problem with kegerator

[Takuie]

Bought a used kegerator a while back. My last keg I had in it was spot on, minimal head every pint. Now I have a problem I can't seem to figure out. I have balanced my system, made sure lines were not below the fluid level in the keg. I am still getting tons of head. I have to pour off first 1/2 to full pint then after that next one pours great with about an inch of head. What I have noticed is that after I pour, I look at my keg line and it starts foaming up in the keg line after each pour. There is a big air pocket at the top where the keg is tapped after about 10 seconds when I stop the pour.

I forced carbed this keg, then set pressure to maintain about 2.4 vols. I have 5 feet of 3/16 Id line and holding temp around 40 degrees. Any suggestions why I'm having to pour off the first 1/2 to full pint?

My pour temp is 40 degrees as well. I'm using commercial sanke kegs.

 

[Clankenbrew]

If its a sankey keg, check the back flow preventer. If its in upside down it will foam the beer.


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[day_trippr]

[...]I have 5 feet of 3/16 Id line [...]

Ayup. And there's your bug.

Double that line length and I bet your problem resolves favorably.

Check out the only line length calculator worth using...

Cheers!

 

[Takuie]

Can't see it being the line. System is balanced well and last keg was right where it need to be. Ad precious owner didn't have any issues. I'm thinking over carbed maybe?

 

[Takuie]

If its a sankey keg, check the back flow preventer. If its in upside down it will foam the beer.


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Backflow preventer is good. Going back through my brew notes, looks like I may have over carbed. Force carbed at 40 psi for 38 instead of 24 hours, then 20 psi for 24 hours. Guess I just need to burp it a few times?

 

[k1ngl1ves]

Over-carbonation is possible, but I'm pretty sure it's not your only issue...

The general rule is 10-12 ft for your beer line. It'll fix 90% of "new to kegging" issues.

It's only about $5-6 to make the switch, and worth every cent.

 

[Takuie]

Ok, upon second look...
My lines are not 3/16 ID, but 1/4" ID. Balance calculators are telling me I need about 40 feet of line! I've looked into changing it over to 3/16 and this looks like it won't be that simple. The back of my spigot is for 1/4" line. Should I look at replacing this to one that will hold 3/16 ID lines?

The part that attaches to the tap uses a compression connector with a wing nut like connector. Figured I could reduce this down to 3/16 and not have any troubles, but stepping back up to 1/4 in the tower before it connects to dispenser tap would mess up balancing right? Should I just splice in the 3/16 lines or replace the dispenser tap?

Sorry for all the questions, now beginning to see why previous owner let this go so cheaply.

 

[surffisher2a]

Ok, upon second look...
My lines are not 3/16 ID, but 1/4" ID. Balance calculators are telling me I need about 40 feet of line! I've looked into changing it over to 3/16 and this looks like it won't be that simple. The back of my spigot is for 1/4" line. Should I look at replacing this to one that will hold 3/16 ID lines?

The part that attaches to the tap uses a compression connector with a wing nut like connector. Figured I could reduce this down to 3/16 and not have any troubles, but stepping back up to 1/4 in the tower before it connects to dispenser tap would mess up balancing right? Should I just splice in the 3/16 lines or replace the dispenser tap?

Sorry for all the questions, now beginning to see why previous owner let this go so cheaply.

Assuming your connection is a barb you can soak the end of the 3/16" line very hot water and it will fit on the 1/4" barb.

 

[pdietert]

You can probably stretch the 3/16" over the 1/4" inch fitting. Warm it up with a hair dryer and use keg lube.

 

[Takuie]

Assuming your connection is a barb you can soak the end of the 3/16" line very hot water and it will fit on the 1/4" barb.

Rockin! Don't know why I didn't think of that! I'll give it a shot. Thanks!

 

[slarkin712]

Line length issues aside, you almost certainly have overcarbed your keg. If your keg pressure is higher than your regulator pressure the symptoms that you are seeing usually occur. The CO2 comes out of solution as there is not enough pressure from the regulator. I would unhook the gas to the keg and bleed it through the pressure release valve 2-3 times a day for a day or two. Then hook the gas up at your serving pressure, which should be around 11-12 psi at 40F. The keg may be a little undercarbed at first, but it will equalize in a few days and then the issue with the bubbles in your line should be resolved.

The line length issues are real. 5 feet of 1/4" line will not provide enough resistance to avoid foamy pours. Switch to 10 feet of 3/16" line and then trim the line length down if it pours too slowly.

 

[tootal]

My tapper is 6" above my corny keg. 5' of 3/16" line connected to a 1/4" barb works real nice. 12 psi at 40 degrees is also a +1!

 

[Takuie]

Now I have a new problem. Rebalanced my kegerator. Now when I first start pouring its good, then it gets crazy foamy for 2 seconds, then pours good again. The problem with this is I'm getting 3-4 inch head on a pint glass. Any suggestions?


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[surffisher2a]

Now I have a new problem. Rebalanced my kegerator. Now when I first start pouring its good, then it gets crazy foamy for 2 seconds, then pours good again. The problem with this is I'm getting 3-4 inch head on a pint glass. Any suggestions?


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make sure your glasses are really clean when pouring. Also rinsing them out with water before you pour will help. Make sure you are opening the tap quickly and keeping it all the way open before pouring.

 

[pdietert]

Now I have a new problem. Rebalanced my kegerator. Now when I first start pouring its good, then it gets crazy foamy for 2 seconds, then pours good again. The problem with this is I'm getting 3-4 inch head on a pint glass. Any suggestions?

This can happen when the beer in the beer line warms up (warms up the line also) and CO2 is forced out of soluton. It may cool back down but the CO2 will collect at a highest point in the line (there might be many if you have your line in vertical loops). Every time you open the door this has a chance of happening. Test this by leaving the door closed for an hour or longer, then pour a glass of beer (it might be foamy) and drink it. Now do not open the keggerator door and see if the next glass has the same problem. Also, a computer case fan inside the keggerator helps tremendousley for all kinds of foaming problems.

 

[Takuie]

Thanks. I will put a fan in there and see if that helps. Have to wait till new batch is ready to keg, with all the line changing and trying different things I emptied out this keg pretty quickly.


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[Takuie]

Problem solved! :rockin:

When I Added line to rebalance, I had to splice the supply line since nobody around here carries sanke replacement parts (the tailpiece that connects to top of sanke supply tap). One of the lines was not slid up all the way on the barb. Warmed it up with a heat gun, slid it all the way up the coupler and shamalamabingbong! Perfect pours!


Thank you all for your patience and your advice.