Pre boil hydro reading

[narl79]

I was brewing yesterday and tried one of 3 meathods ive read so far on gow to take your pre boil reading to measure efficiency. The meathods are
1: take both a reading of first and second and average them.
2: mix an equal part of each and swirl
3: take a sample from the last of the first runnings. .

I did number 2 for the first time and came out way below my target for the first time which I only got a 53% efficiency. So my question is am I doing this all wrong by following any of these tips and if so how do you guys take your pre boil readings?



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[deepcdan99]

I check a couple times after it's all in the kettle stirred up prior to it boiling. The readings are always pretty close. If for some reason one reading is off, I will check it couple more times. Air bubbles or particulate on the site glass can skew the reading. Efficiency is calculated by sugars extracted in the total wort in your kettle. Taking readings during your sparge can help you see if you are sparging too fast and help to increase efficiency, but not calculate total brew house efficiency.

 

[BansheeRider]

I was brewing yesterday and tried one of 3 meathods ive read so far on gow to take your pre boil reading to measure efficiency. The meathods are
1: take both a reading of first and second and average them.
2: mix an equal part of each and swirl
3: take a sample from the last of the first runnings. .

I did number 2 for the first time and came out way below my target for the first time which I only got a 53% efficiency. So my question is am I doing this all wrong by following any of these tips and if so how do you guys take your pre boil readings?



Sent from my SPH-L710 using Home Brew mobile app

Are you using a hydrometer? If so hydrometers are calibrated at 60 degrees. Are you cooling the wort before taking a reading? I would invest in a refractometer so you don't have to adjust for temperature.

 

[GilSwillBasementBrews]

I take my preBoil reading once I have collected 1st and 2nd runnings together in my BK incase I'm low I can always sparge some more or add DME if ridiculously low on my target gravity.


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[prohl84]

Worts of different gravities need to be mixed well or they stratify- if you put the lower gravity 2nd runnings on top of the high gravity first runnings you might have read the lower gravity portion on the top.

As Banshee said temperature is also a major factor. There are calculators that can ballpark it if the wort is under 150*F.

http://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/

 

[narl79]

Good info thanks guys. Cheers!!

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[broadbill]

I haven't heard any of those 3 methods. My preferred method.....wait for it.....to take a sample of the wort, before I boil it. Tada!

Revolutionary, I know....


Do people intentionally try to make this hobby more difficult than it has to be?

 

[narl79]

It does seem like that sometimes. I had a tada moment when I read this and said duh... all 3 methods above where from my lhbs owner who I think is not all there

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[llvllayhem]

Not sure if it's a waste of time, or a way to justify my refractometer purchase. I take four readings each brew day with it, first and second running of the mash (batch sparse), after completing the sparge I take a pre boil reading after mixing the wort well. The final reading is taken post boil after cooling in conjunction with a hydrometer reading. (Usually a point or two difference). Aside from the pre boil and post boil, the other readings are just for my notes. I like the refractometer for hot wort, hydrometer readings before cooling always confused me before i figured out that they are calibrated to 60 degrees.

 

[BansheeRider]

Not sure if it's a waste of time, or a way to justify my refractometer purchase. I take four readings each brew day with it, first and second running of the mash (batch sparse), after completing the sparge I take a pre boil reading after mixing the wort well. The final reading is taken post boil after cooling in conjunction with a hydrometer reading. (Usually a point or two difference). Aside from the pre boil and post boil, the other readings are just for my notes. I like the refractometer for hot wort, hydrometer readings before cooling always confused me before i figured out that they are calibrated to 60 degrees.

You can't go wrong with a refractometer, and there're relatively inexpensive.

Beer Wort and Wine Refractometer, Dual Scale - Specific Gravity and Brix, replaces homebrew hydrometer by Agriculture Solutions LLC http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006GG0TDK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[broadbill]

Not sure if it's a waste of time, or a way to justify my refractometer purchase. I take four readings each brew day with it, first and second running of the mash (batch sparse), after completing the sparge I take a pre boil reading after mixing the wort well. The final reading is taken post boil after cooling in conjunction with a hydrometer reading. (Usually a point or two difference). Aside from the pre boil and post boil, the other readings are just for my notes. I like the refractometer for hot wort, hydrometer readings before cooling always confused me before i figured out that they are calibrated to 60 degrees.

As a recent recipient of a hydrometer, I now am going to be taking copies brew-day gravity readings! However, the only really necessary ones are the pre- and post-boil.

Pre-boil to calculate brewhouse efficiency, and to determine if you need to boil longer, add water, add DME.

Post-boil to determine your OG or pat yourself on the back for how well you have your process dialed in

 

[prohl84]

I haven't heard any of those 3 methods. My preferred method.....wait for it.....to take a sample of the wort, before I boil it. Tada!

Revolutionary, I know....


Do people intentionally try to make this hobby more difficult than it has to be?

^ That's the only way that ever really occurred to me.

Really, mixing equal parts wouldn't be accurate unless 1st and 2nd runnings were pulled at equal volumes for the whole batch. I would probably have to go 30-70 or some wack-stupid ratio.