PM SMaSH?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Boleslaus

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2010
Messages
1,312
Reaction score
51
Location
Cincinnati
Is there a way to do a PM SMaSH. I can only mash between 4 and 5 lbs of grain. But as far as I know most extracts contain a mix of malts right? Any way around this.

If I wanted to do a Munich SMaSH, would using munich LME be suitable enough to at least give me an idea of what a real SMaSH would be like?
 
You could brew a low gravity session beer with 5 lbs grain, with no extract added.

Or you could just add a small amount (1-2 lbs) of Extra Light DME/LME to the boil, call that a SMaSH and call it a successful brewday.
 
Sorry to sidestep the question, but a friendly suggestion is to grab a 5 gal igloo cooler at walmart ($25or so) and mash the whole thing together. When I made the leap from extract I dabbled in pm's but thought they were as difficult as all grain and why not go all in....just my 2 cents.good luck!
 
I've mashed in my bottling bucket using a modified BIAB method (brew in a bag in a bucket?).

Anyway, i used 6 lbs of Marris Otter and put the bag in the bucket secured the sides so they stayed up, added strike water, poured and stir the grain into and let it sit for an hour. I put an old down coat around the bucket during the mash and only lost one degree. Did a batch sparge with the bag acting as a false bottom and hit an OG of 1.054

This was all for a 2.5 gallon batch since i have limited boil capabilities in my apartment.
 
Is there a way to do a PM SMaSH. I can only mash between 4 and 5 lbs of grain. But as far as I know most extracts contain a mix of malts right? Any way around this.

If I wanted to do a Munich SMaSH, would using munich LME be suitable enough to at least give me an idea of what a real SMaSH would be like?

You are correct, most extracts are mixed to provide a base grain for beers...with 5 gallon pot you are stuck with a partial mash, which means buying your base extract and steeping your specialty grains.
The solution of course is to get a bigger pot and/or build a cooler mash tun...some people buy aluminum turkey fryer pots like this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00062VZMY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
it serves as the boiling pot, but some people also buy 5 gallon painters screens from home depot/lowes and turn it in to a cheap mash tun.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I forgot the obvious...you could always brew 2.5 gallon recipes, which would require less grain.
 
Sorry to sidestep the question, but a friendly suggestion is to grab a 5 gal igloo cooler at walmart ($25or so) and mash the whole thing together. When I made the leap from extract I dabbled in pm's but thought they were as difficult as all grain and why not go all in....just my 2 cents.good luck!

The problem is money upgrading to a bigger set up. I was able to upgrade to PM for literal no money. I just used a small cooler I had. I could buy a larger cooler, but its the pot that is expensive.

You are correct, most extracts are mixed to provide a base grain for beers...with 5 gallon pot you are stuck with a partial mash, which means buying your base extract and steeping your specialty grains.
The solution of course is to get a bigger pot and/or build a cooler mash tun...some people buy aluminum turkey fryer pots like this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00062VZMY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
it serves as the boiling pot, but some people also buy 5 gallon painters screens from home depot/lowes and turn it in to a cheap mash tun.

I'll most likely upgrade to an all grain set up later this summer. I'm moving apartments which will give me room outdoors for a burner (I have to do stove top right now). I'll also make enough money over the summer to invest in the quality pot that I want. I don't want to spend $50-80 bucks on a cheap set up when I can spend a hundred more and get one that I really want.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I think extra light DME is mostly (if not all) pilsner malt, and I think Munich LME is Munich malt. I wouldn't worry too much about it no longer being a SMaSH- the DME will not provide much that will make a difference since the bulk of the fermentables would be grain and the extra light DME is pretty flavorless!
 
Ok thanks for the advice! Assuming that the recipe ends up being roughly half Munich and half DME (around 4 lbs. of each to bring it around 1.05), what style of beer could I turn this into. Just trying to decide about hops, yeast, etc. I could try out a lager, but I'd prefer to keep it simple and go the ale route. Its only going to be around 7 SRM. I was thinking of using noble hops.

German Pale Ale? Hop it to around 25 ibu. Use a german yeast?
Sounds good to me!
 
Ok thanks for the advice! Assuming that the recipe ends up being roughly half Munich and half DME (around 4 lbs. of each to bring it around 1.05), what style of beer could I turn this into. Just trying to decide about hops, yeast, etc. I could try out a lager, but I'd prefer to keep it simple and go the ale route. Its only going to be around 7 SRM. I was thinking of using noble hops.

German Pale Ale? Hop it to around 25 ibu. Use a german yeast?
Sounds good to me!

Hmmmmm. A Munich malt means you could do so much! A German beer would be one possibility. If it's half Munich half light DME, you could go with an APA, IPA, etc also. Munich malt is a great "character" malt.

A friend sent me a Munich malt/amarillo SMaSH that was fantastic.

If you want to do the German pale ale, I think you're on the right track with noble hops and 25-30 IBUs and using a German yeast.

If you wanted to do a US pale, you could hop with American hops to 40 IBUs, add lots of late hops, and use a clean well-attenuating American strain.

Same with an IPA, but a higher OG and a higher IBU.
 
Boleslaus said:
The problem is money upgrading to a bigger set up. I was able to upgrade to PM for literal no money. I just used a small cooler I had. I could buy a larger cooler, but its the pot that is expensive.

I'll most likely upgrade to an all grain set up later this summer. I'm moving apartments which will give me room outdoors for a burner (I have to do stove top right now). I'll also make enough money over the summer to invest in the quality pot that I want. I don't want to spend $50-80 bucks on a cheap set up when I can spend a hundred more and get one that I really want.

I hear you on the $ ...its tight . I'm still boilin' in a ss 6.5 gal turkey fryer pot that was a gift way back....would love a blingmann someday but not 2day I guess.kudos for holding out for a really good pot.g'luck man!
 
Hmmmmm. A Munich malt means you could do so much! A German beer would be one possibility. If it's half Munich half light DME, you could go with an APA, IPA, etc also. Munich malt is a great "character" malt.

A friend sent me a Munich malt/amarillo SMaSH that was fantastic.

If you want to do the German pale ale, I think you're on the right track with noble hops and 25-30 IBUs and using a German yeast.

If you wanted to do a US pale, you could hop with American hops to 40 IBUs, add lots of late hops, and use a clean well-attenuating American strain.

Same with an IPA, but a higher OG and a higher IBU.

2 of the last 3 beers I've made have been perfecting my APA, so I think I'll go more the german route. I've never brewed with noble hops before, but I love the flavor, so I think I'll try that out. After all thats the whole point of a SMaSH.
 
I would vote for just doing a smaller batch.

If you go to Walmart (at least here), you can get a 5 gallon bucket + lid that is food safe for $3.50 (in the hardware section, look for #2 HDPE on the bottom - Encore Plastics). Then buy a rubber grommet + airlock at your LHBS for ~ $1.50. You now have a perfect fermenter for a 2.5 - 3.5 gallon batch. I've started using these for experimental batches to play with flavor combinations without making too much. Also works great for a bottling bucket since you can drill your own hole lower than the typical bottling bucket to make it easier to bottle. You can also split a 5-6 gallon batch and use different yeasts, etc. Sorry, bit off topic and rambling :eek:.
 
Back
Top