Please critique Simple HERMS Design

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Normally, HERMS doesn't need a burner under the MLT, but it looks like you're planning on heating strike water with that burner. If that's the case, why not just omit the HLT , and go RIMS ?
 
Normally, HERMS doesn't need a burner under the MLT, but it looks like you're planning on heating strike water with that burner. If that's the case, why not just omit the HLT , and go RIMS ?

I just want a simple system where I do not have to worry about anything else other than brewing. By using the HLT for a heat exchange (while also directly heating the strike water as you mention) will ensure I never scorch the wort. I prefer HERMS over RIMS mainly for this one reason as it totally removes this risk.

Another factor is that I feel more confident that I can control the temperature more precisely using this method.

Finally, the cost is not that much extra for another burner and the energy required will be the same using two burners instead of one. Also, if I heat the HLT and the MLT at the same time should allow for them to both get to the required temperature in half the time than using just the HLT to heat itself and the MLT.
 
You might consider a second pump to recirculate the water in your HLT while you are pumping wort through the HERMS coil.
 
You might consider a second pump to recirculate the water in your HLT while you are pumping wort through the HERMS coil.

I am assuming that is meant to keep the temperature constant throughout the HLT? Fair point if that is the case, however should it not be taken care of through the natural process of the hot water rising (due to a change in density) from the bottom (due to closer contact to the burner) forcing the cooler water from the top down towards the burner thereby circulating the liquor and keeping a constant temperature?
 
For precise temp control of the HLT water, it has to be one homogeneous temp. You can stir by pumping or a stir motor in the lid.

Okay, makes perfect sense. Think I will opt for the stir motor attached to the lid.
 
If you're striving for simple as you mentioned, BIAB can't be beat . One vessel, one heat source, one pump, one temp controller, Boom. Easy cleanup too.
 
As the user of a HERMS imo simpler systems than BIAB for all-grain brewing are few and far between.

Let's all stop focusing on the simple part; this is the system I want and keen to know if there are any major design issues and/or tweaks to make things better (with this system).

I am not only going for simplicity, but when I can find an easier and/or risk free way to do a stage / process then I will do that, which is why I chose HERMS over RIMS and why I have gone for no sparging.
 
I can't see your PDF's for some reason. From the comments it sounds similar to my set up. I run a 50' 1/2" coil in the HLT I have a probe on the outlet side of the coil, the burner on the HLT is controlled by a blichmann controller. You will see a large delta between your HLT and wort temps unless you move the HLT water around. Don't skimp on a coil. You really want 1/2" not 3/8" or you'll end up with bits of grain clogging at the compression fittings. It was a real bummer when I found out the hard way and thought I had a stuck mash only to find out later it was the compression fittings and small coil. Also don't skimp on the mash tun false bottom. You really need a good one that will allow you to recirculate with ease. I'm a huge fan of the Blichmann false bottom. I can recirculate 50% wheat without rice hulls at 1.5 gpm with the blichmann. The NorCal false bottoms work ok too. My buddy has their false bottoms in a 26 gallon set up from more beer and it works nicely. But he needs rice hulls at about 30% wheat or rye.

I think two pumps makes life easier but I ran with one for a while. If your into high gravity beers you'll want to match your mash and boil kettles to the same size. I've just upgraded to a 30 and 30 gallon kettles. I make some 1.130 og stouts and I wanted to be able to produce 15 gallons, so I needed a 30 gallon mash tun to accommodate 85-90 lbs of grain.

A 20-20-15 gallon set up will accommodate 10 gallon batches at any gravity.

Let me know if you have any questions. It has evolved through many versions of this set up over the years. I've used pretty much every combo of gear along the way from coolers and keggels with electric heating elements and even a sous vide circulator to try and manage temps.

I can step up temps safely (fear of stuck sparge) at about 2 degrees a min. I can go faster if I use a little heat under the mash tun but I don't do that very often.

I like the burner under the mash to get strike water to temp faster. It saved me about 45 min per brew day. Basically I heat strike water and the HLT water, at the same time while I crush grain. Dial in temps. Dough in with all pumps off and valves closed. Wait 20 min and begin recirculating. I've settled on a .39 crush which produces a clean recirculation and about 78% efficiency. You can go finer and push it higher if you choose. I like the balance and flow through the bed at that setting. You'll find your balance along the way.

Gotta go brew some farmhouse ale now! Cheers


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I can't see your PDF's for some reason. From the comments it sounds similar to my set up. I run a 50' 1/2" coil in the HLT I have a probe on the outlet side of the coil, the burner on the HLT is controlled by a blichmann controller. You will see a large delta between your HLT and wort temps unless you move the HLT water around. Don't skimp on a coil. You really want 1/2" not 3/8" or you'll end up with bits of grain clogging at the compression fittings. It was a real bummer when I found out the hard way and thought I had a stuck mash only to find out later it was the compression fittings and small coil. Also don't skimp on the mash tun false bottom. You really need a good one that will allow you to recirculate with ease. I'm a huge fan of the Blichmann false bottom. I can recirculate 50% wheat without rice hulls at 1.5 gpm with the blichmann. The NorCal false bottoms work ok too. My buddy has their false bottoms in a 26 gallon set up from more beer and it works nicely. But he needs rice hulls at about 30% wheat or rye.

I think two pumps makes life easier but I ran with one for a while. If your into high gravity beers you'll want to match your mash and boil kettles to the same size. I've just upgraded to a 30 and 30 gallon kettles. I make some 1.130 og stouts and I wanted to be able to produce 15 gallons, so I needed a 30 gallon mash tun to accommodate 85-90 lbs of grain.

A 20-20-15 gallon set up will accommodate 10 gallon batches at any gravity.

Let me know if you have any questions. It has evolved through many versions of this set up over the years. I've used pretty much every combo of gear along the way from coolers and keggels with electric heating elements and even a sous vide circulator to try and manage temps.

I can step up temps safely (fear of stuck sparge) at about 2 degrees a min. I can go faster if I use a little heat under the mash tun but I don't do that very often.

I like the burner under the mash to get strike water to temp faster. It saved me about 45 min per brew day. Basically I heat strike water and the HLT water, at the same time while I crush grain. Dial in temps. Dough in with all pumps off and valves closed. Wait 20 min and begin recirculating. I've settled on a .39 crush which produces a clean recirculation and about 78% efficiency. You can go finer and push it higher if you choose. I like the balance and flow through the bed at that setting. You'll find your balance along the way.

Gotta go brew some farmhouse ale now! Cheers


IView attachment 356608

Thanks for the great description of your system, it does sound similar to mine. Check you PM and I will try send the PDF straight there.
 
Let's all stop focusing on the simple part; this is the system I want and keen to know if there are any major design issues and/or tweaks to make things better (with this system).

I am not only going for simplicity, but when I can find an easier and/or risk free way to do a stage / process then I will do that, which is why I chose HERMS over RIMS and why I have gone for no sparging.

I only commented on the aspect of simplicity because you brought it up.
 
Two quick notes that may help:

+1 on keeping the HLT water circulated... a very simple way to do this is with one of these pumps from this thread:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=375904

you can literally just drop the pump into the HLT (perhaps clip the wire to the side of the MLT with a clothespin) and it will keep the water recirculating. It's food-safe, high-temp tolerant, and can be had for $20 (or less).


Second thing that has helped me is to use a BIAB bag in the MT. This has the benefits of:

- You can grind all of your grain into the bag, and simply lower it into the strike water
- It will virtually eliminate the chance of the recirculation getting stuck (or stuck sparge)
- Clean-up is a snap, simply lift the grain bag out, dump it, and rinse
 
you can literally just drop the pump into the HLT (perhaps clip the wire to the side of the MLT with a clothespin) and it will keep the water recirculating. It's food-safe, high-temp tolerant, and can be had for $20 (or less).


Do you have a specific link to the pump you are referring to? I'm getting lost in the sea of different pumps links in the thread you referenced.
 
Do you have a specific link to the pump you are referring to? I'm getting lost in the sea of different pumps links in the thread you referenced.

Yeah, it's a big thread. Here's the link to exactly what I got on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196WL6GY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

There's options for inline and center-inlet, with and without the DC adaptor. They are submersible, food-safe, and able to be used in high-heat.

I am in the process of ordering another and simply adding on QDs so that I can plug it inline to my MT or BK or whatever to quickly move wort as needed. The threads accept 1/2" NPT.
 
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Sweet! Thanks for the info @dsniegocki! I now have a solution on a second pump without breaking the bank!
 
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