Please critique my process

[waverz]

I've brewed nearly 10 batches of AG and have been learning*something new from every batch.* I am starting to get a better understanding of the process but am a little unsure I am using my equipment to its full potential.* I was feeding some numbers into the brewers friend efficiency*calculator and noticed my*brewhouse*efficiency came out a lot lower than I expected.* My conversion efficiency was around what I figured I would get which was around 80 but the*brewhouse efficiency to me seemed very low.

*

This*last batch I made was the*first time I actually paid attention to my system losses.* I guess in all my other previous batches I just sort of guessed and used default values in Beer Smith.* I managed to get lucky and made some decent brews, but now I'm to the point where I want to step up my game and*really get things dialed in.

*

What I have*for equipment at this point is a*14 gallon rectangle cooler with a*CPVC manifold.**Attached is a*small*12v pump that feeds my 800 watt*RIMS tube.* I have a gate*valve between the pump and*tube to adjust flow rates.*

*

My*brewday basically starts be adding strike water to the cooler and letting the RIMS run to get the temp stable.* Once stable, I turn off the RIMS and mash in, stirring for about 5 minutes without recirculating.* I then let the mash settle for a few minutes and start recirculating.* I start off with very low flow and gradually increase*it over the course of the mash.* I do this to avoid compacting the grain bed and producing a stuck sparge.

*As of now I using a 1/2" silicone hose that I lay on top*of the grain bed during the mash.* I move the hose around from time to*prevent channeling and to keep things consistent.* I was thinking about building a manifold to more evenly distribute the heated*wort across the grain bed but am not sure if this is actually needed or recommended.

*Once the mash is done I*drain my*wort into the kettle.* I then add my*sparge water and stir for a few minutes just like I do for mash in.* I then let this set for a few minutes and run my RIMS at 168 degrees.* Just like the mash, I start*with low flow and gradually increase it.* I let*it*recirculate for about 10 or 15 minutes and then drain into my kettle.

*My main concern is about the*recirculating system.* Being I have never really seen anyone else brew with one I am only guessing how it should operate.* Does anyone have any suggestions or tips on how*i can improve my process?

*I mainly just added the RIMS because it sounded fun to make.* I was fairly content with just mashing in a cooler and not*recirculating but after reading about pumps,*controllers, and heaters on this forum I had to add one to my system.* I never measured or cared about conversion efficiencies in the past so I have no idea if it is actually helping my equipment performance or not.* I'll assume it is because my mash temps are very stable and recirculating the wort has to help extraction right?

*I just want some reassurance I am doing things ass efficiently as I can with the equipment given.* Being I am pretty much the only guy*I know who homebrews I am asking you guys for help and advice.*

Sorry for the long post. I need a beer.

 

[Natdavis777]

Sounds like you are on the right track with everything. I dont use a RIMS system, but I would follow through with your idea to add a manifold for the returning wort opposed to using the silicone tube.

What is your typical mash efficiency?

 

[helibrewer]

You can verify your conversion efficiency using this table:

You should be in the 90+ percentile on this

Next you can analyze your lautering using this table:

The conversion efficiency minus the lautering loss equals your overall mashing efficiency. Knowing how well your mash and lauter perform is key to making any corrections. I do RIMs and your process is sound. I fly sparge though.

 

[waverz]

Sounds like you are on the right track with everything. I dont use a RIMS system, but I would follow through with your idea to add a manifold for the returning wort opposed to using the silicone tube.

What is your typical mash efficiency?

To be honest the last batch of beer I made was the first time I've ever checked for efficiency. The beer always tasted fine to me so I left it at that.

Now that I'm learning more about the science behind brewing I've decided maybe I can step it.

That said the last batch I made had a 79.5% conversion efficiency.

Maybe I should look into fly sparging. I was trying to keep this hobby KISS style but it's just too much fun building gadgets tutti help make better beer. The only problem really is that it's more "stuff" I have to clean.

 

[helibrewer]

To be honest the last batch of beer I made was the first time I've ever checked for efficiency. The beer always tasted fine to me so I left it at that.

Now that I'm learning more about the science behind brewing I've decided maybe I can step it.

That said the last batch I made had a 79.5% conversion efficiency.

Maybe I should look into fly sparging. I was trying to keep this hobby KISS style but it's just too much fun building gadgets tutti help make better beer. The only problem really is that it's more "stuff" I have to clean.

First you have to figure out where the issue is, mash or lauter...using the tables above will help you figure that out.

 

[waverz]

Sounds like you are on the right track with everything. I dont use a RIMS system, but I would follow through with your idea to add a manifold for the returning wort opposed to using the silicone tube.

What is your typical mash efficiency?

To be honest the last batch of beer I made was the first time I've ever checked for efficiency. The beer always tasted fine to me so I left it at that.

Now that I'm learning more about the science behind brewing I've decided maybe I can step it.

That said the last batch I made had a 79.5% conversion efficiency.

Maybe I should look into fly sparging. I was trying to keep this hobby KISS style but it's just too much fun building gadgets to help make better beer. The only problem really is that it's more "stuff" I have to clean.

 

[Natdavis777]

80% is pretty good in my book. I went from 67% to ~80% after switching to a false bottom, recirculating with a pump at the end of the mash for 15 min, and fly sparging. Fly sparging should bump your effic some more, but I honestly wouldnt worry if you are more about a KISS approach. If your efficiency was in the 60s, then yes I would say move to fly sparge.

 

[Natdavis777]

And if you like to build gadgets and get bored, I will take a homemade RIMS system... 1/2" quick disconnects are what I use :rockin:

 

[waverz]

Here's my tube. It's all just 3/4" stainless pipe fittings and swagelock. Quick diconnects would be nice. For now the barbs and hose clamps will do.

I should note that I replaced the ball valve with a gate valve and moved it to the output of the pump.

 

[waverz]

First you have to figure out where the issue is, mash or lauter...using the tables above will help you figure that out.

Very good point. I'm brewing up another batch this weekend. I will take extra care to note gravitys of each process. Thanks for the tables.

 

[waverz]

Very good point. I'm brewing up another batch this weekend. I will take extra care to note gravitys of each process. Thanks for the tables.

 

[waverz]

Brewed another batch yesterday and paid closer attention to specific gravity readings during the mash/sparge process.

I mashed in 8.75lbs of grains in 2.8 gallons of water. I recirculated the mash for an hour. My temperature was within 2 degrees the entire hour but I still ended up with a fairly low conversation efficiency. After the hour mash the specific gravity read 1.075.

According to this calculator I only got 65% although I'm not sure if the calculator I used works like I was thinking it would because obviously without sparging I'm not getting the same reading.


My sparge water came out at 1.032.

The pre boil SG was 1.032 which puts me at 85% conversion efficiency and a brew house efficiency of 72.4%.

I guess things aren't as bad as I thought.

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