Agree. But ... Any eejit with a dremel tool can buy a $2 deep well socket and make a tool that works on gas or liquid side. I are that eejit. I know. I bet your pecker-in-law has a dremel with a cutting wheel. Or your geek neighbor.Something else to keep in mind.
Servicing the posts on ball lock kegs can be done with either a standard box wrench, or deep socket. For pin lock, they have to be cut to go around the pins. Which means you'll have that one item just for the keg posts. Finding that out, over a decade ago, was the final nail in the pin lock coffin for me.
Dremels are for rookies. I have three right angle grinders to play with. Not to mention a milling machine. Plus plenty of other tools.Agree. But ... Any eejit with a dremel tool can buy a $2 deep well socket and make a tool that works on gas or liquid side. I are that eejit. I know. I bet your pecker-in-law has a dremel with a cutting wheel. Or your geek neighbor.
I have all pin lock kegs. When I started kegging, years ago, they were cheaper, and the difference in dimensions from ball locks wasn’t an issue, so that’s what I went with.
The only real drawback to pin locks is that new posts aren’t available (except for some which are machined from billet stainless and cost as much, for a pair, as a new ball lock keg). Used posts are still available, and I’ve never worn out a post, so that’s no big deal. The advantage of the pin lock is that it’s impossible to reverse the gas and liquid QDs. The socket with the appropriate notches cut in it to remove either post isn’t expensive, and the O-ring kits cost the same. The lids are the same. The pin lock is slightly larger in diameter and slightly shorter than the ball lock. That’s about it. If you want shiny and new, the ball lock is all you can get. If you want to save a few bucks (but not enough to really matter unless you’re on a really, really, tight budget) there’s nothing wrong with pin locks. Well, there‘s also the satisfaction of annoying those who equate Shiny Objects with “better” beer.
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