PicoBrew Zymatic

CornyKegs 728
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If you get into homebrewing to save money you will be severely disappointed.
 
Seems to be the common theme. Guess I can’t pitch it to my wife as a savings!

Then again 1/6barrels around here go for $80+
 
stonebrewer said:
Well the parts came in but a little too late for me to brew with over the turkey break. Have had no time to brew lately, but thinking I will get down to business next week. The folks at Picobrew sent me a complete replacement to my stepper arm. Had to completely disassemble the outer shell to install it, and that was a bit of a PITA, but luckily I had all the right tools to do the job! Their directions were spot on and their customer service was fantastic! I was fully prepared to have to pay an arm and a leg to get this fixed but all it cost me was time and a little bit of elbow grease. Very pleased with that aspect! Keep an eye out for thick, dried wort on your step filter or coming out of the hole where the stepper arm comes out. If this happens, you have the same issue I did and honestly I should have questioned it one or two brews earlier than I did. System still worked, but there was a definite problem that was only going to get worse. Glad I caught it before it got too bad.
Click to expand...

Over my last brew day (a few days back), I got several, "stepper arm error" messages pop up. As it happened, it offered a "continue" option on the panel, which I selected. It spun the arm around a few times and eventually back and positioned where it needed to be. And the brew continued. Happened 2, maybe 3 times. Did you ever have that happen prior to yours completely failing?
 
@pblocked : Mine never completely failed...it just started leaking. That is the error (or similar) I got when I detected the problem...see post #1445 a page or two back...If the arm catches on something (in my case, dried and caked wort from the leak) you will get that error. Make sure nothing is blocking the arm from rotating and check for wort with a flashlight. You can also take the back off and look inside.
 
@stonebrewer yep, after reaching out to them, a few back and forth questions and sharing some pics, they're sending me a new arm assembly. :/

After removing the top, looked like I had a pretty good leak going with substantial build up happening.

How difficult was it to replace the arm?
 
pblocked said:
@stonebrewer yep, after reaching out to them, a few back and forth questions and sharing some pics, they're sending me a new arm assembly. :/

After removing the top, looked like I had a pretty good leak going with substantial build up happening.

How difficult was it to replace the arm?
Click to expand...

It was easy to do. They give good instructions with pictures. Hardest thing you might run into is getting the sides off. I happen to have a lot of specialty tools that I have collected over the years so having a flexible shaft screw/bolt driver and extensions, I was easily able to get the thing apart and back together again no problem. Replacing the arm was simple once you get the top and back off. Just take pix along the way so you know where everything plugs back in...

Let me know if you need help...

Cheers!
 
Out of curiosity, at what point during the mash does everyone choose to pull samples for PH? I've been using the multi-step more and more for larger batches, but my readings have been all over the map. Wasn't sure if it was due to my meter or the temps and multi-step process. Would love any input!
 
pblocked said:
Out of curiosity, at what point during the mash does everyone choose to pull samples for PH? I've been using the multi-step more and more for larger batches, but my readings have been all over the map. Wasn't sure if it was due to my meter or the temps and multi-step process. Would love any input!
Click to expand...

I just calculate what it should be and add phosphoric acid according to that. <shrug>
 
Yeah, call me lazy. I have a PH meter, an expensive one, but I just can't be bothered to take a reading. Maybe I should...I just don't. I used to take a lot more readings, but found the calculators to be so close, it wasn't worth the extra effort. <shrug>
 
stonebrewer said:
Yeah, call me lazy. I have a PH meter, an expensive one, but I just can't be bothered to take a reading. Maybe I should...I just don't. I used to take a lot more readings, but found the calculators to be so close, it wasn't worth the extra effort. <shrug>
Click to expand...

No, no, I totally get it. I’ve been using tap and it’s been a little bit of a struggle. Although I have my local water report, it’s alway 1-2 months behind and it swings quite a bit in that span. Been thinking of just ponying up another $5 for some RO water. :/

Out of curiosity, how did your Congress St turn out? Happened to catch it in your sig file.
 
I actually should check PH more often. The times I've checked it, it was close enough to what the spreadsheets estimate that I grew lazy. I will break out the meter the next brew or two and let you know. I have almost pulled the trigger on a RO system for the brewery. They are not that expensive and having to not slug water home is so much more convenient. As is now, I pretty much doctor the water with a set amount of acid and salts for IPAs, which is mainly what I brew...other styles I do little or no doctoring.

The Congress was okay, but not as good as other times I made it. I think I upped the bittering hop load the last time I brewed it as an experiment (and a bad one!) and the bitterness made it a different beer. Next time I will cut back to my original recipe amount. I don't use any other kettle hops...oh and I think for that brew (gotta consult my brew sheet to be sure) I broke my rule of no beer before the boil. I believe that lead me to saying screw it and dumping in my whirlpool hops above 170 so I think I picked up even more bittering compounds. I will say in the past I have brewed it and it was dangerously good...hoping to get that the next time I brew it!

The Belma/Simcoe IPA was better than the CS, but I am not sure I would use that combination again, or if I did I would change the relative amount of hops. It is good, but not outstanding...the Abrasive clone was the best of the three and was in the dangerously good category...

Cheers!
 
Curious:
How are you all chilling the wort: I’ve seen early videos showing the option to use an ice bath...

Then I’ve seen the use of a chiller?

Being a closed-loop: do you even need to chill the wort? Or could you let it sit as-is for a few hours?
 
Gizzygone said:
Curious:
How are you all chilling the wort: I’ve seen early videos showing the option to use an ice bath...

Then I’ve seen the use of a chiller?

Being a closed-loop: do you even need to chill the wort? Or could you let it sit as-is for a few hours?
Click to expand...
It takes much longer than a few hours, but no problem doing the overnight chill and pitching the next day. Very common way to do it.
 
jrb03 said:
It takes much longer than a few hours, but no problem doing the overnight chill and pitching the next day. Very common way to do it.
Click to expand...
So, chilling it faster would be more of a concern in a typical brew session? Not necessary on the Zymatic?

How long would you say the wort is stable/safe before pitching yeast?
 
Gizzygone said:
So, chilling it faster would be more of a concern in a typical brew session? Not necessary on the Zymatic?

How long would you say the wort is stable/safe before pitching yeast?
Click to expand...
It is not a concern in any type of brewing for me, as long as your sanitary and sealed. The advantage tbe Zymatic has is your brew vessel is also your fermentation vessel. Seal it up overnight and let it cool down. Pitch yeast the next day. Read up on overnight chill if your concerned. Many will say don’t do it for various reasons, others do it exclusively. I’ve done it off and on over the years, when convienient or I’m out of time, with all my different stages of brew equipment, and I have never had an issue. I have no problem recommending overnight chill if you want to do that for whatever reason. I will never run the chill cycle on the Zymatic again that’s for sure. Aside from the foaming that will happen if it runs too long, I’ve also noticed my machine is much cleaner internally not running the chill cycle. I quickly set the keg aside and rinse while things are still hot, not letting the wort cool and gum things up.
 
Agree on the overnight chill. I have done it more times than not. I bought the nice Jaded chiller for it, used it a few times and said this is more work than it is worth, so it is on the pile of no longer used brewing tools. My process is simple and works well for IPAs, which I brew more than not:

Finish the brew, stick the keg into a bucket of cold tap water. Recirculate the Z until it hits 170 or so, which takes a couple of minutes tops. Toss in whirlpool hops, in a sack, and circulate for 25 minutes. Seal the keg with the hop sack still inside. Place in a new bucket of cold water (about 2 gallons fit in a 5 gallon bucket with the keg). This chills it to pitching temps in an hour or three. Then I either take a temp reading ( of the water, which is a few degrees cooler than the wort) and if it hits below my pitch temp, I open the keg, pitch, spund, seal. If I get a late start or don't want to fool with it, I wait until morning when I know it will be 60-65F and pitch then...or the next afternoon if my AM is busy. Never had an issue and don't expect to have one. Best of luck!
 
I made a copper immersion for like $35. I use it every time and don’t recirculate, just end the brew. On my last porter brew, went from boil to 63 in 17 mins. It was cold out though.
 
stonebrewer said:
I actually should check PH more often. The times I've checked it, it was close enough to what the spreadsheets estimate that I grew lazy. I will break out the meter the next brew or two and let you know. I have almost pulled the trigger on a RO system for the brewery. They are not that expensive and having to not slug water home is so much more convenient. As is now, I pretty much doctor the water with a set amount of acid and salts for IPAs, which is mainly what I brew...other styles I do little or no doctoring.

The Congress was okay, but not as good as other times I made it. I think I upped the bittering hop load the last time I brewed it as an experiment (and a bad one!) and the bitterness made it a different beer. Next time I will cut back to my original recipe amount. I don't use any other kettle hops...oh and I think for that brew (gotta consult my brew sheet to be sure) I broke my rule of no beer before the boil. I believe that lead me to saying screw it and dumping in my whirlpool hops above 170 so I think I picked up even more bittering compounds. I will say in the past I have brewed it and it was dangerously good...hoping to get that the next time I brew it!

The Belma/Simcoe IPA was better than the CS, but I am not sure I would use that combination again, or if I did I would change the relative amount of hops. It is good, but not outstanding...the Abrasive clone was the best of the three and was in the dangerously good category...

Cheers!
Click to expand...

Was the surly close to the original? It’s so good! Willing to share the recipe?
 
It was as close as I remember. I haven't had it side by side as it is not easy to get in the DC area. I think you can get it mail order from France44 sometimes.

Recipe for Z is:

8.5# 2 row
10 Golden Naked Oats
10 oz Corn sugar
1 oz Columbus 60 minutes (can cut this down a little)
1 oz each Citra/Galaxy whirlpool
2 oz Citra dry hop (Cryo = 1 oz)
1 oz Galaxy dry hop
WLP 007

Simple, easy, tasty. Let me know if you brew it and what you think of it. Cheers!
 
Just finished up a pale ale that was supposed to come in around 1.054 but I only managed 1.031 which is only about 38% efficiency (very not great).

I milled my grains same day at 0.045 gap
Mash water pH of 5.36
3.3 Gallons starting water

Grains consisted of:
-5lb Two-Row
-8oz Flaked Oats
-8oz White Wheat Malt
-2.4oz Honey Malt

Hops Consisted of
.35oz Magnum@60 mins
.25oz Citra@7mins
.25oz Mosaic@7 mins

Looking at the graph on the brewhouse, the temperature seemed to be wavering quite a bit. I have attached the graph; does anything looks out of the ordinary?

Once the brew was finished I took out the spent grains and noticed about 20% of them were still dry. Does anyone have any recommendations of what I might have overlooked? I haven't had a brew day where I've hit my target numbers and it gets a bit frustrating.

Then in the hop cage, I've noticed not only on this brew but on other brews the cage will be filled up with green hop sludge (like the cage is not draining fully into the wort). Is this normal?

I also reached out to pico support (awaiting a reply) but wanted to know if anyone could provide some ideas here in this thread.

Cheers! -Kyle
 

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KrunkMasterKyle said:
Just finished up a pale ale that was supposed to come in around 1.054 but I only managed 1.031 which is only about 38% efficiency (very not great).
...

Looking at the graph on the brewhouse, the temperature seemed to be wavering quite a bit. I have attached the graph; does anything looks out of the ordinary?

Once the brew was finished I took out the spent grains and noticed about 20% of them were still dry. Does anyone have any recommendations of what I might have overlooked? I haven't had a brew day where I've hit my target numbers and it gets a bit frustrating.

Then in the hop cage, I've noticed not only on this brew but on other brews the cage will be filled up with green hop sludge (like the cage is not draining fully into the wort). Is this normal?

I also reached out to pico support (awaiting a reply) but wanted to know if anyone could provide some ideas here in this thread.

Cheers! -Kyle
Click to expand...

If I was to guess, I'd say things aren't draining properly. Try taking a regular screwdriver & taking apart the quick disconnect on the output (grey side). I bet you have some hulls or something clogging it up.
 
Thorrak said:
If I was to guess, I'd say things aren't draining properly. Try taking a regular screwdriver & taking apart the quick disconnect on the output (grey side). I bet you have some hulls or something clogging it up.
Click to expand...

I will check that out, thanks!
 
KrunkMasterKyle said:
Just finished up a pale ale that was supposed to come in around 1.054 but I only managed 1.031 which is only about 38% efficiency (very not great).

I milled my grains same day at 0.045 gap
Mash water pH of 5.36
3.3 Gallons starting water

Grains consisted of:
-5lb Two-Row
-8oz Flaked Oats
-8oz White Wheat Malt
-2.4oz Honey Malt
Click to expand...
Where did you find that the SG was supposed to be 1.054? When I plug those numbers in to the pico recipe crafter I get 1.046. Obviously still something wrong but just curious about the numbers.
 
springroll said:
Where did you find that the SG was supposed to be 1.054? When I plug those numbers in to the pico recipe crafter I get 1.046. Obviously still something wrong but just curious about the numbers.
Click to expand...

I've been using beersmith to calculate recipes and scale them to the Z. I've been finding Beersmith a bit more accurate than picocrafter, even though I've only done 6 brews so far I've compared all the outcomes with the picocrafter and beersmith and found beersmith to be more accurate. I think the Picocrafter also recommended to add 3.63 gallons of water, so cutting the water will provide a (slightly) higher OG. I didn't cut the water much at all for this brew though.
 
Update to Z issue I was having.

I ran 2 deep clean cycles, cleaned out the quick disconnects and I'm seeing much better graphs. Got a lot of gunk out of the 1st deep clean.
 

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The only official info out is at that link. Everything else is guesswork. They are officially calling it the “Z series” and claiming 1-10 gallons. so it seems like a small and large system. Probably 1-5 120v and 5-10 220v. Again guesswork.
 
I will likely upgrade IF it allows for larger beers and IF I am convinced they have solved the issue with the arm assembly. If anyone else wants to share codes (not sure how this will work!) mine is M18Q0.
 
In a Pico Facebook group I'm in they confirmed there will be a trade-in for current zymatic owners. Saw some people were told they only offer $600 for the trade in but I haven't received an email on trade in yet. And yes I believe if we all use each other's links we will get $250 off.
 
Pretty reasonable prices with the discounts. Still can’t fork over the extra money though. Hopefully they don’t abandon the Zymatic completely...
 
My buddy at work just bought one...He is very excited and very depressed he has to wait 6 months until the Z ships. I'm right on the cusp of ordering the 5 gallon one. $1999 + $200 (Shipping) - $150 discount - $600 Zymatic trade in (you get to keep the keg) = $1449. Decisions, decisions.
 

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