My approach is using salts to adjust the water profile im looking for to fit the recipe, stouts, ipa, etc. I then plug my numbers into the EZ water spreadsheet, I've found this sheet pretty close on predicting my final mash ph. I never bring my chloride, or gypsum over 150ppm and just use lactic after that to fine tune. Which based off my water is usually around 1-2ml of lactic acid, this will vary on recipe and RA of water. If you search you can find the taste thrust hold which I believe is about 1-2ml per gallons before you'll pick up the sour lactic taste. What I learned is when you're on the lower side of 5.2-5.3 you'll get a more crisp dry beer which works great for light styles, but this leaves dark brews astringent and thin on the pallet. Slide up around 5.3-5.5 and your stouts are thick and more rounded bringing those roasty chocolate flavors out. This is all based off my pallet and what I've experienced. I take ph readings during, and after mash, preboil, post boil, before kegging. If your serious about really owning this aspect of brewing get yourself a nice ph meter. Paper strips are so inconsistent and only give you a ball park. Im sure with lots of trial and error you'll nail it, but even with my ph meter it took me about 10-15 batches before i started getting good results from ph adjustment. No one will be able to give you the perfect recipe for water profile and nailing ph, this is something you need to learn based off trial and error. One big mistake I did often was take a reading after 5 mins freaking out that it was too high, so I dump a bunch of gypsum and acid in my mash, 10 mins later I'd be way too low. PH adjustment isn't instantly, wait at least 15-20 mins before you take your first reading. If you end up adding more lactic wait at least 5-10 mins. If your within .1 of your desired ph don't sweat it. It's not a perfect science, relax and have a homebrew!