panel mount fuses?

[cbzdel]

Can anyone fill me in on panel mount fuses? What a common size would be? Looking around they come in so many different sizes. Also if it's rated at 10amps at 240v can that be used on 120v with the samev rating?

Also, since I am doing this thought I might as well fuse everything right? I am running 1 pid, 1 timer, 1 pump all at 120v so I will just run a fuse to each one based at its max required amperage, correct? Or is this overkill?

 

[heckels]

Are you referring to a fuse or a breaker? A fuse is one-and-done ( typically screw-in for a panel). A breaker has a switch that can be reset if it is overloaded or shorted.

On a breaker panel, you'd be using a two pole breaker that pulls 120v from each leg. Most guys will run either a 30a breaker or 50a breaker depending on how big your elements are and how many you want to run simultaneously.

Once run to your brewery panel, you can use the two legs in tandem to get 240v or using a neutral and either of the hot legs you can feed 120V to power pumps, etc.

This is assuming you'll be running a new line using a 4-wire line (H-H-N-G).

 

[cbzdel]

I am taking about the small panel mount fuses such as these.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250857792066?redirect=mobile

hopefully they link works

 

[P-J]

I am taking about the small panel mount fuses such as these.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250857792066?redirect=mobile

hopefully they link works

That is a great choice for the fuse holder to be used in your build.

Please keep in mind that it is simply a fuse holder.

P-J

 

[heckels]

I am taking about the small panel mount fuses such as these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/250857792066?redirect=mobile hopefully they link works

Ha! My bad, didn't quite follow your OP

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

Panel mounted fuse holders are cool, but you should take into consideration the extra holes you have to cut. If you're good at that kind of thing then go for it.

After I cut the first couple of holes for my LEDs I knew I was going with inline fuse holders.

 

[snackson]

Panel mounted fuse holders are cool, but you should take into consideration the extra holes you have to cut. If you're good at that kind of thing then go for it.

Seriously? All it takes is a drill, center punch and a drill bit or even a spade bit because the holes are between 7/16" and 9/16" depending on what size you have. 22mm holes I can understand being difficult if you don't have a knockout punch or drill press but these little things take seconds to install.

 

[jCOSbrew]

220v would require 2 holders (one for each phase) and is overkill IMO. The breaker will protect your 220v max current. Consider using one fuse for the pump and one for all other 120v (switches, PID, etc.)

There are a few different sizes of glass fuses, just buy the fuses that match your holder. Connections are usually solder or 1/4" quick connect.

 

[jsbird]

That is a great choice for the fuse holder to be used in your build.

Please keep in mind that it is simply a fuse holder.

P-J

I'm very confused about the voltage/current ratings of fuse holders. I purchased similar fuse holders from Mouser and am wiring them into my panel. I noticed the quick-connect tabs were too small for my 14ga crimp on teminals so I checked the specs and the holder is rated for 10a. I'm putting them, as many 240V schematics suggest, after the 15a breaker. I assumed the requirements for the holder were determined by what was feeding it; is that not correct? If not, then what determines the required ratings of the holders? I'll be putting 10a and 1a fuses in the holders.

 

[augiedoggy]

Panel mounted fuse holders are cool, but you should take into consideration the extra holes you have to cut. If you're good at that kind of thing then go for it.

After I cut the first couple of holes for my LEDs I knew I was going with inline fuse holders.

Not a problem if you use a plastic enclosure

 

[augiedoggy]

I'm very confused about the voltage/current ratings of fuse holders. I purchased similar fuse holders from Mouser and am wiring them into my panel. I noticed the quick-connect tabs were too small for my 14ga crimp on teminals so I checked the specs and the holder is rated for 10a. I'm putting them, as many 240V schematics suggest, after the 15a breaker. I assumed the requirements for the holder were determined by what was feeding it; is that not correct? If not, then what determines the required ratings of the holders? I'll be putting 10a and 1a fuses in the holders.

The fuse it rated for the load that's running off of it...the wires and connections must be thick enough to support the load.. most people use a 1/2 amp fuse for the pids ..... if the fuse it for your element power(overkill IMHO since the breaker will trip) then you would need something with enough amps for the Max load but nothing more.

 

[bsperr]

I'm very confused about the voltage/current ratings of fuse holders. I purchased similar fuse holders from Mouser and am wiring them into my panel. I noticed the quick-connect tabs were too small for my 14ga crimp on teminals so I checked the specs and the holder is rated for 10a. I'm putting them, as many 240V schematics suggest, after the 15a breaker. I assumed the requirements for the holder were determined by what was feeding it; is that not correct? If not, then what determines the required ratings of the holders? I'll be putting 10a and 1a fuses in the holders.

That's weird. Are you using the blue colored quick connects? They should fit if the fuse holder has the solder/quick connect tabs. Is the quick connect too wide or too loose? If it's too loose, try squeezing the connector closed with needle nose pliers for a tighter fit.

 

[jsbird]

I did find some blue terminals sized to fit what I believe to be .187" tabs (versus the .250" tabs that seem to be more readily available). They are a secure fit. Still wondering if it's okay to use fuse holders that will hold 1A quick blow or 5A or 10A fuse in line after a 15a supplementary breaker if the fuse holder itself is only rated for 10A. Does the 10a fuse holder rating just mean that you wouldn't want to use a greater than 10A fuse? Makes sense as the fuse should blow long before the holder has a chance to heatup/melt.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0031.3903virtualkey69300000virtualkey693-0031.3903

Manufacturer: Schurter
Product: Fuse Holders
Current Rating: 10 A
Voltage Rating: 250 V
Number of Poles: 1
Series: FBS1
Mounting Style: Panel

 

[augiedoggy]

I did find some blue terminals sized to fit what I believe to be .187" tabs (versus the .250" tabs that seem to be more readily available). They are a secure fit. Still wondering if it's okay to use fuse holders that will hold 1A quick blow or 5A or 10A fuse in line after a 15a supplementary breaker if the fuse holder itself is only rated for 10A. Does the 10a fuse holder rating just mean that you wouldn't want to use a greater than 10A fuse? Makes sense as the fuse should blow long before the holder has a chance to heatup/melt.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0031.3903virtualkey69300000virtualkey693-0031.3903

Manufacturer: Schurter
Product: Fuse Holders
Current Rating: 10 A
Voltage Rating: 250 V
Number of Poles: 1
Series: FBS1
Mounting Style: Panel

correct,
the wiring for the 10a rated holder can support anything UP TO 10a safely.

 

[Michilimackinac]

The fuse it rated for the load that's running off of it...

Generally, you'll size the wire for the load, and the fuse for the wire.

Here's a good reference:

http://www.oznium.com/forum/topic15761

 

[augiedoggy]

Generally, you'll size the wire for the load, and the fuse for the wire.

Here's a good reference:

http://www.oznium.com/forum/topic15761

good to know I wasnt aware of that.
I know I was recommended to and did use a 1/2amp fuse for my pids even though the wiring can support more.

 

[ChuckO]

Generally, you'll size the wire for the load, and the fuse for the wire.

Here's a good reference:

http://www.oznium.com/forum/topic15761

That's a good reference for DC applications. AC has different current limitations for wire sizes though.