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kskm497

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Hi Guys,


My brewing partner and I are brewing our first couple of batches next Saturday and am getting really excited. :rockin:

I have an American Amber ale recipe for the first fermenter and wanted to see if anyone had any ideas for a good 5Gal extract SMaSH recipe.

My partner is wanting to try to the Azzaca or Calypso hops, so I am wondering what malts I could pair with that? Also, a possible yeast as well?


Our mentor has advised us to use DME over LME....I have searched and found some extract recipes, however, they utilize LME instead. I am wondering if we can just convert it to DME?...any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

As I see a couple sales I would like to order the ingredients this weekend.


Cheers!!! :mug:
 
I would do gold malt extract. Northern Brewer has good LME. I would start with either Wyeast American Ale II or Safale US-05.
 
You could use DME, such as light Amber or something. You could find a conversion calc via google I'm sure if your recipe using LME instead. For the malts I'm assuming you'll just be steeping if your keeping it extract. If so it depends what kind of flavors you like really as steeping just get some of the flavors out and none of the simple sugars so it won't affect the final ABV%. I would keep it to a simple yeast like Wyeast Ale yeast or US 05 or 04. But I advise you to experiment with many strains of yeast over time as each one imparts their own unique flavors that can drastically change a recipe's taste.
 
Excellent, they have a sale going on right now, so Ill give thema try!

Thank You!
 
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I will give light Amber some thought as it is right up my alley.

As far as the yeast, I plan on honing in on different hops for the time being. However, I wanted a couple good yeasts to obviously get things rolling.

Im a big balanced person, love American Amber ales, Ill drink almost anything, but Im a fairly middle of the road kind of person. Noce balance at first with a slight bitterness/hoppy taste on the back end.

I will definitely give the Wyeast a look over. I was also told about whitelabs cali as well.

Thank you guys for the advice!
 
Don't complicate things too much first time out :) Simple recipe so you can concentrate on getting familiar with the process and build from there next time.

I am an extract brewer, I use both LME and DME. I lean towards LME whenever possible .... and use DME to bridge between where the LME ended and the amount of extract I want to use if the LME can't get me there in 3.3lb increments. I just find it easier to deal with. I warm the container up in a sink filled with hot water and just pour that stuff in, DME seems to want to clump up in humid environments (ie, while you are trying to pour it into a giant vat of near boiling water).

Calcs

DME = 0.84 * LME
LME = 1.19 * DME
 
Welcome to brewing and HBT.

I recommend staying with dried yeast for a while. You can rehydrate it, but probably better to just dry pitch at first to keep it simple. US-05 or Nottingham are good for most ales.

Some brewers prefer DME, but I feel that if you get LME from a supplier with a good turnover, it will be fresh and make good quality beer. It is said to get a little off flavored if it gets old (say close to a year). I use it within 3 months.

One of my favorite SMASH beers is APA using Pale Ale extract from Williams Brewing. (Not the same as pale malt.) I've been using Simcoe hops for bittering and for flavor/aroma, but plan on using Mosaic on the next batch.
 
Hey Guys,

Thank you soo much for all the info!!!

After what seemed like tons of research, I decided to go with Briess Pilsen light DME, calypso hops, and white labs 001 dry yeast for the first batch. SMaSH # 2 (next brew day) will be azzaca hops, same everything else.

Once, I get a few brew days in me, I will prob do one with LME and one with DME. And I keep hearing good things about the US-05, so I will have to give it a shot.

NCBrewer let me know how that APA turns out! If its good, wpuld you mind shooting me a recipe?

Anyways, again thank you huys for the help! I am looking forward to it and will keep everyone posted on how it turns outs! Will be doing a couple other recipe kits...a friend gave me two Mr. Beer kits...so Ill have two 2.25 G of those and 2 5Gal batches going!

Brew day here we come!
 
Hey Guys,

Thank you soo much for all the info!!!

After what seemed like tons of research, I decided to go with Briess Pilsen light DME, calypso hops, and white labs 001 dry yeast for the first batch. SMaSH # 2 (next brew day) will be azzaca hops, same everything else.

Once, I get a few brew days in me, I will prob do one with LME and one with DME. And I keep hearing good things about the US-05, so I will have to give it a shot.

NCBrewer let me know how that APA turns out! If its good, wpuld you mind shooting me a recipe?

Anyways, again thank you huys for the help! I am looking forward to it and will keep everyone posted on how it turns outs! Will be doing a couple other recipe kits...a friend gave me two Mr. Beer kits...so Ill have two 2.25 G of those and 2 5Gal batches going!

Brew day here we come!

Really not trying to rain on your parade here and please know I'm doing this to help but White Labs 001 is liquid yeast not dry. Are you equipped to make a starter?
 
NCBrewer let me know how that APA turns out! If its good, wpuld you mind shooting me a recipe?

I'll post in this thread. I'm anxious myself, but it's third in line, so it'll be about 3 months before it's ready to taste.

The recipe will be the same as the ones I've brewed with Simcoe:
Partial boil - about 2.5 gallons of water
6 lbs Pale Ale Malt Extract
2.25 lbs (3 cups) of the LME in the boil to start
Hops to get 0.62 - 0.65 GU:BU ratio (This takes some juggling because my hop stand is at 190F and isomerizes some alpha acids)
Remainder of LME at flameout
1 oz hops also at flameout
30 minute hop stand, covered - starts at 190F - finishes at about 180F - I get same hop utilization from this as from about a 10 minute boil
Top off to 4.5 gallons
US-05 yeast, rehydrated
 
Really not trying to rain on your parade here and please know I'm doing this to help but White Labs 001 is liquid yeast not dry. Are you equipped to make a starter?

At its simplest don't you just need a vessel of some kind and some DME? ...
 
That is crazy! It doesnt show it as being in a vile like their other yeast...just in a white pouch. So, I assumed it was dry yeast.

I guess I can always go to my local craft brew store and probably pickup something there...its just a bit more expensive.

Thanks for the catch!
 
Thanks Man!! I will def give this a shot in a few weeks! Sounds delicious!
 
That is crazy! It doesnt show it as being in a vile like their other yeast...just in a white pouch. So, I assumed it was dry yeast.



I guess I can always go to my local craft brew store and probably pickup something there...its just a bit more expensive.



Thanks for the catch!


Depending on your OG you may be able to get away with pitching the 001 in its perfect pitch container...wanted to make sure you were aware! Glad to be of help!
 
Depending on your OG you may be able to get away with pitching the 001 in its perfect pitch container...wanted to make sure you were aware! Glad to be of help!

Hi Sammy,

Im not following entirely...would you mind elaborating some?
 
Hi Sammy,



Im not following entirely...would you mind elaborating some?


Sure thing, so White Labs sells their yeast in these PurePitch pouches they look like this

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1469243567.926204.jpg

According to them there are 100 Billion yeast cells in them which you can directly pitch into wort without building a starter. The general consensus on this forum and people can correct me if I'm wrong is that a wort that has an OG (Original Gravity) of 1.040 or below you can pitch one of those and not stress the yeast in the wort and make beer.

Now, with an OG of 1.050 or above more than 100 Billion cells are needed to pitch into your wort in order to not stress the yeast and lessen the chance of creating off flavors.

With your recipe if your OG is 1.040 or below I would guess that you would be ok just pitching the PurePitch into the wort and let it go. If it's above 1.040 I recommend as others would to make a starter with the PurePitch to increase the yeast cell count to ensure your yeast are happy and healthy and making tasty beer.

For me, I only use liquid yeast and make a starter on my stir plate 24-48 hours in advance to ensure my yeast cell count is where it should be. I use the following calculator online to figure out how big of a starter I need per the OG of my intended beer.

http://www.brewunited.com/yeast_calculator.php

For example on my latest brew an IPA I had an OG of 1.064 so I need 300 Billion cells in Oder to have an appropriate yeast pitch. I made a 1.6 L starter with I believe 175 grams of DME and pitched my starter at the wort temp.

Sorry I wasn't descriptive enough hope this helps and makes sense.
 
Hey Sammy!!!


Everything went great!!! It was a looong day, but it went really well. Only one small hitch in my plan...the hops and dme didnt show up for my Smash, so I brewed two Ambers, and will brew two smashes this time. (Bought ingredients for two brew days at once)

They are in the fermenting chamber right now...honestly, one is close to ready, but the other still needs a few more days...Im thinking ll start testing Wednesday.

And btw I read your post and appreciated the explanation!!! Honestly, I was a little worried bc we were on the line of needing to up the count (1.047) but I wasnt sure what to do being my first day, so, we winged it and put the yeast directly in. They were working like crazy the next day! So, I think we were somewhere in between...

However, I am going to take your advise on this next brew day ( if they are ready to transfer this week, will be Sat or Sun)...doing the two Smashes, just unsure what the avg OG is for that (need to do some research).

Anyways, here are some photos of brew day and them fermenting!

I apprciate all the advice and words of wisdom, Ill let you know how they end up tasting in September! :mug:

Cheers!!!

(Well it appears I camt attach a file right now...ill work on it)
 
Hey Sammy!!!


Everything went great!!! It was a looong day, but it went really well. Only one small hitch in my plan...the hops and dme didnt show up for my Smash, so I brewed two Ambers, and will brew two smashes this time. (Bought ingredients for two brew days at once)

They are in the fermenting chamber right now...honestly, one is close to ready, but the other still needs a few more days...Im thinking ll start testing Wednesday.

And btw I read your post and appreciated the explanation!!! Honestly, I was a little worried bc we were on the line of needing to up the count (1.047) but I wasnt sure what to do being my first day, so, we winged it and put the yeast directly in. They were working like crazy the next day! So, I think we were somewhere in between...

However, I am going to take your advise on this next brew day ( if they are ready to transfer this week, will be Sat or Sun)...doing the two Smashes, just unsure what the avg OG is for that (need to do some research).

Anyways, here are some photos of brew day and them fermenting!

I apprciate all the advice and words of wisdom, Ill let you know how they end up tasting in September! :mug:

Cheers!!!

(Well it appears I camt attach a file right now...ill work on it)

Glad everything went well and very happy to help! Now keep on brewing!
 
Hey Sammy,

I had no idea you could add two packs of yeast! Awesome, I will definitely take that into consideration...but I like your first post as well. I'm thinking it will save money as well.


We are actually going to take our first test tonight...I'm hoping tonight, tomorrow, and Friday are relative, so I can transfer to the secondary and get the next batch going this weekend. But, we'll see, don't want to rush the process.

Anyways, I was having trouble uploading pictures to a message on here, so I moved them to a google drive folder...nothing much, but enjoy:


https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8o_c8-o_DhxQlRFakp0SVY3QkE



Thanks again for all your help!!!
 
Hey Sammy,

I had no idea you could add two packs of yeast! Awesome, I will definitely take that into consideration...but I like your first post as well. I'm thinking it will save money as well.


We are actually going to take our first test tonight...I'm hoping tonight, tomorrow, and Friday are relative, so I can transfer to the secondary and get the next batch going this weekend. But, we'll see, don't want to rush the process.

Anyways, I was having trouble uploading pictures to a message on here, so I moved them to a google drive folder...nothing much, but enjoy:


https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8o_c8-o_DhxQlRFakp0SVY3QkE



Thanks again for all your help!!!

Just an FYI there really is no reason to do a secondary unless you are adding adjuncts I.e. Fruit, oak chips, etc. if you're worried about clarity cold crashing and adding gelatin can help your clarity a ton.
 
Hey Sammy,


My buddy brought his refractometer over last night and we tested our batches...everything is looking good. We ended up with a little lower ABV than the recipe said on both, not sure why, as I have not had time to do research on what could cause that, if it's bad or good. But, with any luck tonight and tomorrow they will test the same, so I can get them moved Friday night. (Brew day was August 23)

I have done a little research on secondaries and realize it is the majority's opinion on here that they are not really necessary, however, to be honest, I would like to brew this weekend but, I need my fermenters in order to make that happen. And as I have read, I still want my original batches to sit for at least another week maybe two before bottling.

So, to save some money for now, I would like to move them over to secondaries, to utilize the fermenters and keep batches going. Maybe in a few months I can buy some extra ones and have them rotating. I'm trying to get this one done, then brew a Christmas ale in two weeks...want enough time for it to sit before giving them out.


I will absolutely do research on cold crashing as I have not heard of that technique/method. And I will definitely check into the gelatin as well, I was advised to use irish moss for clarity...not sure if that is the same process.

Anyways, thank you for the advice...I will check into both of those!
 
Hey Sammy,


My buddy brought his refractometer over last night and we tested our batches...everything is looking good. We ended up with a little lower ABV than the recipe said on both, not sure why, as I have not had time to do research on what could cause that, if it's bad or good. But, with any luck tonight and tomorrow they will test the same, so I can get them moved Friday night. (Brew day was August 23)

I have done a little research on secondaries and realize it is the majority's opinion on here that they are not really necessary, however, to be honest, I would like to brew this weekend but, I need my fermenters in order to make that happen. And as I have read, I still want my original batches to sit for at least another week maybe two before bottling.

So, to save some money for now, I would like to move them over to secondaries, to utilize the fermenters and keep batches going. Maybe in a few months I can buy some extra ones and have them rotating. I'm trying to get this one done, then brew a Christmas ale in two weeks...want enough time for it to sit before giving them out.


I will absolutely do research on cold crashing as I have not heard of that technique/method. And I will definitely check into the gelatin as well, I was advised to use irish moss for clarity...not sure if that is the same process.

Anyways, thank you for the advice...I will check into both of those!

To each their own as far as secondaries go brewing brother I'm not one to force any idea upon anyone...especially when it comes to brewing!

Few things, 1. Refracometer doesn't give accurate readings with alcohol you should find an adjustment calculator online and see what you come up with.

2. Gotta do what you have to to keep the pipeline full! I completely understand!

3. Irish Moss/Whirlfoc tablets are used during the boil of your wort. I use them as well and have good results!

4. Cold crashing is when your bring your fermented wort down in temperatures below 40°'for an amount of time to allow the yeast and other trub to fall to the bottom of the fermentor and gives you clearer beer into the bottling bucket/keg.

Keep up the good work and let us know how the beers turn out!
 
Hey Sammy,


Just wanted to give you an update and say thank you for all your advice and expertise! We managed to bottle a week and a half ago!!! We now have six cases sitting, two more batches in secondaries, and two more in the fermenter.


I can't wait to taste both of these Ambers. I am really stoked! I will take some pics and let you guys know how they turn out.


As far as cold crashing I am going to do some more research on it and get my procedures down before I start...I honestly would have to figure out another cooling source to drop the temp. My secondaries are in the house at 72, while my fermenter is full at 69. I might have to look for a secondary fridge or wait for it to get cold outside. I'm thinking of running four fermenters when it gets cold enough to sit on the counter. Then using the fermenter for beer cooling/cold crashing.

I did some research on irish moss and have been incorporating it into my brew at 10min...so, thank you!


Anyways, around the first or second week of September I will let you know how it goes! I have the Christmas batch fermenting right now! Super excited.


Thanks Again!!!! :mug:
 
Sounds like you're up and running! Glad I could be of some help! As my frat brothers used to say pictures or it didn't happen!
 
NCBrewer let me know how that APA turns out! If its good, wpuld you mind shooting me a recipe?

I finally got to taste this beer, but when I brewed it I used about 1/4 oz of Simcoe hops in the boil for bittering. This was left over from the last brew and I wanted to use them up. I figured boiling would pretty much get rid of the hop flavor, but it still seemed to come through in the final product. So it was a good beer, but still had some of the pine notes from the Simcoe hops. Sorry I couldn't give you a better report on the Mosaic hops.
 
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