Opinions on NEIPA recipe

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Brewing this weekend and have finalized my recipe:

10 lb 2 row
2 lb flaked oats
1 lb flaked wheat
.5 lb acid malt

7.5 gallon mash at 154 for 1 hour (BIAB style)
(may add 3 lb of DME light - don't expect my conversion to be great)

60 minute boil
1 oz mosaic at 30 min
3 oz mosaic at FO

6 gallons of wort after boil

4 oz medusa whirlpool at 175
4 oz azzaca whirlpool at 160

Chill wort to 65 degrees

Dry hop 4 oz Azzaca at high Krausen (24 to 48 hours after pitching)

Dry hop 4 oz Medusa 5 days later

Bottle after 10-14 days in fermenter

Not knowledgeable enough to mess with water chemistry yet - brewed a lot of IPAs using my local water with good success though so not going to worry about it.
 
Only thing I would change is the the Mosaic. For NEIPA you don't want a lot of bittering hops. I would only through in say a 0.25 or 0.5 oz at 30, and move the other 3 ounces from flame out to whirlpool too.
 
Personally, I think this style does better mashing low (149-151) to get the dry finish. I will say that the water treatment isn't necessary to make a good beer, but mine got A LOT better after I started paying attention to water. The mouthfeel is a big part of the "juiciness" of this style, and water treatment helps a lot with that. You don't have to do it, obviously, but it made a huge difference for me.

For my version, I have no additions before 15 minutes, and I think that's probably right. I've seen a lot of people who don't use any hops until FO.

Lastly, I strongly suggest waiting a bit longer than 2 weeks before bottling. This style gets you a lot of hop material in the beer, which can be really abrasive. I cold crash in my keg when I brew this style, and I have found that it takes a bit for all of the hop material to drop out. I would suggest tasting it before putting it in bottles to make sure you get rid of that material.
 
Personally, I think this style does better mashing low (149-151) to get the dry finish. I will say that the water treatment isn't necessary to make a good beer, but mine got A LOT better after I started paying attention to water. The mouthfeel is a big part of the "juiciness" of this style, and water treatment helps a lot with that. You don't have to do it, obviously, but it made a huge difference for me.

For my version, I have no additions before 15 minutes, and I think that's probably right. I've seen a lot of people who don't use any hops until FO.

Lastly, I strongly suggest waiting a bit longer than 2 weeks before bottling. This style gets you a lot of hop material in the beer, which can be really abrasive. I cold crash in my keg when I brew this style, and I have found that it takes a bit for all of the hop material to drop out. I would suggest tasting it before putting it in bottles to make sure you get rid of that material.

Great advice with a few caveats. Mouthfeel is critical and water matters...a lot. Shoot for 150ppm chloride and 75 ppm s sulfate. Bottling a NEIPA , from what I've read, doesn't work well. If you can't keg, I'd do a lot of research to see if anyone had successfully bottled the style.
 
Plenty have successfully bottled NEIPAs. I've had batches that seem to oxidize fast, and some that keep for north of 6 months. I'm not super strict with oxygen avoidance either.
 
Fortunately I should be able to bottle straight from the fermenter after cold crashing to prevent oxidation.
 
My 2 cents added to this thread are that water profile is a must for this style! If you've ever had Trillium, Treehouse, The Veil, Burley Oak, or RAR that water profile is what they are doing that sets a true NEIPA apart from the also-rands! I do a 200ppm Chloride to 100 sulfate. I makes a ridiculously slick mouthfeel. I use: https://www.brewersfriend.com/water-chemistry/ to figure out how many grams of each to get the intended result. It also will tell you if you have too much of one ingredient because frankly you could end up hurting yourself. Play around with it and it'll show you the breakdowns.

As far as bottling NEIPAs? I've successfully bottled 6 different NEIPAs so anyone that says it doesn't work or isn't as good is flat out lying. Your grain bill looks good too. I would tread lightly on any boiling hops and drop the most in at a hops stand of 180*.

Cheers,
Paisano
 
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