Odell Myrcenary Double IPA

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Would like to see some ideas on this myself. Possibly my favorite IIPA out there right now.

According to the website...
"Brewed with a blend of hops containing the highest levels of Myrcene, this double IPA prevails with a tropical fruit-like flavor, a pungent floral aroma, and a clean getaway.

9.3% Alc. By Vol."

And according to some quick (but not confirmed) research, some of these high Myrcene level hops include Simcoe, Amarillo, Cascade, Crystal & Fuggles.

Here is an attempt at it using my last IIPA's grain bill and the above mentioned hops. My efficiency usually sucks, but I get pretty good attenuation with using a starter.



malt & fermentables
% LB OZ Malt or Fermentable ppg °L Late
75% 12 0 Pale Malt (Maris Otter) 37 3 ~
6% 1 0 Munich Malt - 10L 35 10 ~
6% 1 0 Sugar, Table (Sucrose) 46 1 Y
5% 0 12 Briess Amber DME 43 5 ~
3% 0 8 Golden Promise 32 2 ~
2% 0 6 Cara-Pils/Dextrine 33 2 ~
2% 0 6 Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L 34 40 ~
Batch size: 4.8 gallons


Original Gravity
1.083 / 20.0° Plato
(1.074 to 1.087)
Final Gravity
1.017 / 4.3° Plato
(1.015 to 1.019)
Color
9° SRM / 18° EBC
(Gold to Copper)
Mash Efficiency
60%

hops
use time oz variety form aa
boil 60 mins 1.0 Simcoe leaf 13.0
boil 15 mins 2.0 Cascade pellet 5.5
boil 10 mins 2.0 Fuggles pellet 4.5
boil 5 mins 2.0 Crystal pellet 3.5
boil 1 min 2.0 Amarillo pellet 7.0
Boil: 5.5 avg gallons for 90 minutes


Bitterness
79.7 IBU / 13 HBU
ƒ: Tinseth
NOTE: IBU results higher due to late boil additions
BU:GU
0.96

yeast
White Labs California Ale (WLP001)
ale yeast in liquid form with medium flocculation and 79% attenuation


Alcohol
8.8% ABV / 7% ABW
Calories
272 per 12 oz.

misc
use time amount ingredient
boil 5 min 1 tsp Irish Moss
 
Ah, if only I could find Simcoe and Amarilo hops...it's gonna be a long summer!

I have just a couple comments based on many attempts to clone the year round version of O'Dell IPA. I'm no expert, but I keep getting closer to making a quality clone. I'm a big fan of German Ale yeast for that recipe, and I'd recommend playing with your yeast selection for this recipe and see what best brings out the hop aroma and flavor. Also, I caught a Basic Brewing Radio interview with O'Dell's headbrewer and he said they boil the IPA for 90 min, and I wouldn't be surprised if the Myrcenary IIPA is boiled at least that long. Once ingredients are back in season I look forward to trying to clone this beer!
 
bump

Would like to see some ideas on this myself. Possibly my favorite IIPA out there right now.

According to the website...
"Brewed with a blend of hops containing the highest levels of Myrcene, this double IPA prevails with a tropical fruit-like flavor, a pungent floral aroma, and a clean getaway.

9.3% Alc. By Vol."

And according to some quick (but not confirmed) research, some of these high Myrcene level hops include Simcoe, Amarillo, Cascade, Crystal & Fuggles.

Here is an attempt at it using my last IIPA's grain bill and the above mentioned hops. My efficiency usually sucks, but I get pretty good attenuation with using a starter.



malt & fermentables
% LB OZ Malt or Fermentable ppg °L Late
75% 12 0 Pale Malt (Maris Otter) 37 3 ~
6% 1 0 Munich Malt - 10L 35 10 ~
6% 1 0 Sugar, Table (Sucrose) 46 1 Y
5% 0 12 Briess Amber DME 43 5 ~
3% 0 8 Golden Promise 32 2 ~
2% 0 6 Cara-Pils/Dextrine 33 2 ~
2% 0 6 Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L 34 40 ~
Batch size: 4.8 gallons


Original Gravity
1.083 / 20.0° Plato
(1.074 to 1.087)
Final Gravity
1.017 / 4.3° Plato
(1.015 to 1.019)
Color
9° SRM / 18° EBC
(Gold to Copper)
Mash Efficiency
60%

hops
use time oz variety form aa
boil 60 mins 1.0 Simcoe leaf 13.0
boil 15 mins 2.0 Cascade pellet 5.5
boil 10 mins 2.0 Fuggles pellet 4.5
boil 5 mins 2.0 Crystal pellet 3.5
boil 1 min 2.0 Amarillo pellet 7.0
Boil: 5.5 avg gallons for 90 minutes


Bitterness
79.7 IBU / 13 HBU
ƒ: Tinseth
NOTE: IBU results higher due to late boil additions
BU:GU
0.96

yeast
White Labs California Ale (WLP001)
ale yeast in liquid form with medium flocculation and 79% attenuation


Alcohol
8.8% ABV / 7% ABW
Calories
272 per 12 oz.

misc
use time amount ingredient
boil 5 min 1 tsp Irish Moss

Did you ever brew this? If so, how'd it turn out?
Also, what did you mash at? I like my regular IPAs dry and usually mash around 150*-152* for 60 minutes.
 
Any luck with this recipe? I am looking to brew a DIPA soon and really loved the one and only bottle of Myrcenary I have ever had the chance to try and would love to have it (or something close to it) on tap at my apartment.
 
BUMP!

I had purchased a four pack of Odell's Myrcenary based upon a recommendation from the guy who worked at the liquor store. Man, are these suckers delicious! So good in fact I went back to the liquor store the next day and the last 2 remaining packs!

This last Saturday (1/7) I brewed up an Imperial IPA that was modeled after Odell's Myrcenary.

Recipe: Double Octane Wayne IPA
Brewer: Fluke Brew Co.
Asst Brewer:
Style: Imperial IPA
TYPE: All Grain


Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Boil Size: 7.13 gal
Post Boil Volume: 5.98 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal
Bottling Volume: 5.00 gal
Estimated OG: 1.091 SG
Estimated Color: 12.4 SRM
Estimated IBU: 124.5 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 71.8 %
Boil Time: 69 Minutes ("because every boil should be 69 minutes long!")

Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
5.50 gal R.O. to Denver, CO Water 1 -
2.70 g Epsom Salt (MgSO4) Water Agent 2 -
2.00 g Baking Soda Water Agent 3 -
1.10 g Chalk Water Agent 4 -
0.90 g Calcium Chloride Water Agent 5 -

15 lbs Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 6 84.2 %
8.0 oz Caramel 120L (120.0 SRM) Grain 7 2.8 %
8.0 oz Munich Malt (9.0 SRM) Grain 8 2.8 %
4.0 oz Caramel - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 9 1.4 %

2.00 oz Cluster [7.60 %] - First Wort 69.0 min Hop 10 46.7 IBUs
1 lbs 5.0 oz Dextrose (0.0 SRM) Sugar 11 7.4 %
1.50 oz Simcoe [14.10 %] - Boil 69.0 min Hop 12 53.7 IBUs
0.50 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 10.0 mins) Fining 13 -
1.50 oz Amarillo [10.40 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 14 13.9 IBUs
1.00 tsp Yeast Nutrient (Boil 10.0 mins) Other 15 -
1.00 oz Falconer's Flight [11.40 %] - 5.0 m Hop 16 6.2 IBUs
1.00 oz Falconer's Flight 7 C's [9.90 %]- 2.5 m Hop 17 2.8 IBUs
1.50 oz Citra [15.60 %] - Boil 0.5 min Hop 18 1.3 IBUs
1.50 oz Crystal [3.40 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 19 0.0 IBUs
2.0 pkg American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056) Yeast 20 -
4.0 oz Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) Dry Extract 21 1.4 %


Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Medium Body

Total Grain Weight: 17 lbs 13.0 oz
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperature Step Time
Mash In Add 5.34 gal of water at 162.7 F 152.0 F 60 min
Mash Out Add 2.85 gal of water at 204.0 F 168.0 F 10 min

Sparge: Fly sparge with 1.15 gal water at 168.0 F
 
Is Simcoe your only high alpha hop? I mean, you could use a # of Simcoe to chock your car, but I'd just use a chunk of wood, save the Simcoe for late hop additions. I've got ~ 3/4 # of it, and you can bet I won't waste it where I can't taste it - no more till next Fall!
 
The other day I was browsing the inter-webs for information about Odell Myrcenary and in the process I sent an email to Odell's brewery saying how big of a fan I am of what they do, etc. I asked a couple questions to help me out in the process of cloning this great beer.

Here is part of their response to my email:

We cannot give out recipes for obvious reasons, but you have pinned down some of the hops we do use in our Myrcenary. We use one strain of a house yeast for all of our ales and we ferment at 20 degrees Celsius.
I hope this helps! Keep home brewing!


Now my next step is to go to the liquor store and buy me some yeast samples to harvest Odell's house ale yeast! Has anyone successfully harvest yeast from Odell Brewing Co? If so, which beer did you use? I was thinking about getting a 6-er of Levity Amber Ale and the IPA.
 
ODell's Easy Street Wheat is unfiltered and you can harvest the yeast from the bottle. I've been told they use German Ale yeast for their house strain. Good luck cloning!
 
Sorry to bring up an old thread, but has anyone brewed this?

I just picked up a 4 pack and it's fantastic.
 
I've never tasted this beer, but I do know the highest myrcene content is not found in Fuggles or Crystal.

You really want to shoot for those pungent, aromatic, tropical, citrusy Pacific NW hops if you're looking for the highest myrcene levels.

In order from most to least (but still fairly high):

Amarillo
Citra
Simcoe
Horizon, Centennial, Galena
Northern Brewer

They probably only use three varietals late in the boil and bitter with something like Columbus or Bravo. Late additions are dry hop should definitely be the star.

Side note: All of these hops are also low in humulene, farnesene, caryophyllene, and selinene, but high in total oil content and alpha acids. This makes them opposite of Noble hops and very suitable for American IPAs.
 
This beer is all about the Hops. Let your flame out hops steep in the hot wort for 10-15mins before you start chilling. You will get better hop aroma. Also you are going to want to dry hop the first time for 3 days when you gravity is within a couple points of your final gravity. This will help your yeast flocculate. Then dry hop again for another 3 days. By drying hoping for only 3 days, you do not get the grassy, vegetal flavors.

As for the grain bill, start with a good base malt like American 2-row or Maris Otter. Then add in a couple pounds of crystal malt with an average of 40L. So for instance either add all crystal 40 or split it between crystal 60 and crystal 20 etc. Then add in some toasted malt like Vienna, Light Munich, Munich 10L, Aromatic, etc.


87% Base Malt
8% Crystal malt with an average of 40L
5% Toasted Malts
 
By drying hoping for only 3 days, you do not get the grassy, vegetal flavors.

I disagree with this statement whole-heartedly. This seems to be a beer with an amazing nose and an extended dry hop. I have never encountered grassy, vegetal flavor from 2 week dryhops. 3-5 days seems to be a common recommendation for dryhopping on homebrewtalk.com, but people are dryhopping IPAs at 7-14 days on every other website, modern book, podcast, etc.

As far as the crystal and toasted malts, 8%-13% total in an utterly hop dominant beer seems rather high. They use German Ale yeast, which is very clean and almost lager like so I imagine their grist is similar.

Maybe some combination of: German 2-row pils, American 2-row, Golden Promise, White Wheat, corn sugar, a dash of honey malt and crystal 10.
 
I disagree with this statement whole-heartedly. This seems to be a beer with an amazing nose and an extended dry hop. I have never encountered grassy, vegetal flavor from 2 week dryhops. 3-5 days seems to be a common recommendation for dryhopping on homebrewtalk.com, but people are dryhopping IPAs at 7-14 days on every other website, modern book, podcast, etc.

It might not be the exact dry hopping schedule but in general dry hopping for longer periods will increase the grassy and vegetal aromas.

Don't believe me. Listen to Matt Brynildson from Firestone Walker Brewery speak with the Brewing Network about their dry hopping believes. Link Here He talks about dry hopping at the 32:00 minute mark of the show.


Firestone Walker only dry‐hops 5 days maximum
Russian River = 5 day dry hop minimum.

For dry hopping suggested that T‐45 pellets give lower vegetative matter and the
necessary contact time is reduced.

Firestone Walker theory on dry hopping:
  • Selection of best (new crop year) aroma varieties;
  • Blending hops for consistency and complexity;
  • Extraction is better at elevated temperatures;
  • Emphasis on low dissolved oxygen (DO);
  • Removal of yeast plug prior to dry hopping;
  • Rousing with CO2 to help control DO; short contact time (3‐4 days); sanitary technique;
  • Blending of beers at finish.
 
It might not be the exact dry hopping schedule but in general dry hopping for longer periods will increase the grassy and vegetal aromas.

Again, this is misleading advice. I brewed something very similar to Union Jack, if not identical, and that had a 12 day dryhop. My Surly Abrasive clone had a 14 day dryhop. Never once have I encountered any grassy-vegetalness in any of my 7-14 day dryhopped IPAs using fresh Pacific NW hops, and there have been A LOT!!

Breweries like Russian River and Stone employ a staggered dry hop regimen that looks something like this:

Add dryhops after primary ferm for 4 days
Pull out used hops and discard
Add fresh dryhops for 4 days
Pull out used hops and discard
Add fresh dryhops for 4 days, etc etc.

Pliny the Younger is actually dryhopped in four stages at the rate of 1 oz. dryhops per gallon beer and the last stage is actually done in the keg(s) until it sells out. Fresh Stone IPA is dryhopped for 2 whole weeks. Odell Myrcenary shouldn't be an exception.

I agree that dryhop length depends on:

The varieties of hops, age, and amount of hops you're using
When you choose to dryhop
Ambient temps.

But for the purposes of homebrewed American IPAs, where purging with CO2 is not often done, and also where some homebrewers don't even rack to secondary, the average dryhop length for awesome aroma should be much longer than 3 days.
 
Breweries like Russian River and Stone employ a staggered dry hop regimen that looks something like this:

Add dryhops after primary ferm for 4 days
Pull out used hops and discard
Add fresh dryhops for 4 days
Pull out used hops and discard
Add fresh dryhops for 4 days, etc etc.

Pliny the Younger is actually dryhopped in four stages at the rate of 1 oz. dryhops per gallon beer and the last stage is actually done in the keg. Fresh Stone IPA is dryhopped for 2 whole weeks. Odell Myrcenary shouldn't be an exception.

Exactly what I'm saying. You dry hop with fresh hops for 3-5 days then discard and dry hop again for a second, third, fourth time, etc until you get the hop aroma you want. In total you would be dry hopping for up to 10 days if you do two hopping regiments, up to 15 days for three, and so on and so forth.

What I am saying is leaving the plant matter in your beer for longer then 5 days will start to develop more of a grassy, vegetal aroma.

For example:

Dry hop 1: 1oz. for 3-5 days
Dry hop 2: 1oz. for 3-5 days
Dry hop 3: 1oz. for 3-5 days
Dry hop 4: 1oz. for 3-5 days

THIS IS NOT EQUAL TO DRY HOPPING WITH 4 OZ. FOR 12-20 DAYS CONTINUOUSLY!


I agree that dryhop length depends on:

The varieties of hops, age, and amount of hops you're using
When you choose to dryhop
Ambient temps.

I couldn't agree more.
 
Google says.....

Grain Bill: US Pale 2-row, Wheat, Vienna, Caramalt
Hops: Chinook, Columbus, Centennial, Cascade, Simcoe, Amarillo
Hopping rate: 6.5lbs/bbl. That's 20oz of hops for a 6gal batch!!!

It's 9.3% ABV, and obviously quite dry. I'd shoot for no more than 1.078-1.079, and aim for it to finish around 1.010 to 1.011 or so. If you need to add dextrose to get the beer to ferment down that low, then do so.
 
Google says.....

Grain Bill: US Pale 2-row, Wheat, Vienna, Caramalt
Hops: Chinook, Columbus, Centennial, Cascade, Simcoe, Amarillo
Hopping rate: 6.5lbs/bbl. That's 20oz of hops for a 6gal batch!!!

It's 9.3% ABV, and obviously quite dry. I'd shoot for no more than 1.078-1.079, and aim for it to finish around 1.010 to 1.011 or so. If you need to add dextrose to get the beer to ferment down that low, then do so.

Source? Other than Google...
 
Exactly what I'm saying. THIS IS NOT EQUAL TO DRY HOPPING WITH 4 OZ. FOR 12-20 DAYS CONTINUOUSLY!

Actually, you didn't recommend staggered dryhopping before I mentioned it. Anyway, that is besides the point.

A small amount of commercial breweries do the staggered dryhop regimen. But there are many commercial breweies and homebrewers alike that still dryhop for 7-14 and achieve extreme aroma and no vegetalness.

I don't doubt that some of you may experience grassy-vegetal flavors, but unless I see an extremely detailed IPA recipe and procedure where this actually occurred, then I cannot diagnose why you would be creating anything less than a citrusy-piney-tropical hop bomb with no off flavors.
 
Actually, you didn't recommend staggered dryhopping before I mentioned it. Anyway, that is besides the point.

Yes, I did actually.

Also you are going to want to dry hop the first time for 3 days when you gravity is within a couple points of your final gravity. This will help your yeast flocculate. Then dry hop again for another 3 days. By drying hoping for only 3 days, you do not get the grassy, vegetal flavors.

But that is besides the point. It is a difference of options. Do whichever method you prefer. I just want to make a clone of this beer because I don't want to buy it by the 4-pack anymore.
 
That edit function is a snazzy feature. But that's besides the point.

If your method is sound, you can successfully dryhop an IPA for 7-14 days (or longer) in one single addition, with absolutely no grassy or vegetal aromas/flavors whatsoever.

I'm certainly not saying this is the only way to dry hop, but it seems you are strongly advising against it because you claim that it will cause an apparent vegetalness in the final beer. This is completely false. It's an old hop wives tale first mentioned in the 1980s. People like to believe in it, but the theory does not hold any water if you're dryhopping with an appropriate variety and amount of fresh hops at the right temps. etc. etc.
 
That edit function is a snazzy feature. But that's besides the point.

I didn't edit anything. It's obvious that you didn't listen to the Brewing Network Interview will Matt From the post below. Even more evidence I didn't Edit the post. I made the parts bold to stick out. Transition words like then, next, second, after are easily missed while reading. So please go back and take the 3 minutes to listen to podcast.


It might not be the exact dry hopping schedule but in general dry hopping for longer periods will increase the grassy and vegetal aromas.

Don't believe me. Listen to Matt Brynildson from Firestone Walker Brewery speak with the Brewing Network about their dry hopping believes. Link Here He talks about dry hopping at the 32:00 minute mark of the show.
 
You're a homebrewer! So are the rest of us. We are not a commercial large scale brewery! We are not Firestone Walker. We tend to brew small 3, 5, or 10 gallon batches. We do not brew in Hectolitres! We tend not to purge with a specific amount of CO2 at different stages, we do not usually dryhop at carefully controlled temps. that rise 2 degrees every 2 days, we do not usually stagger dryhop in 4 stages while discarding the used hops, or follow other complex measures.

Dryhop methods will differ from large scale to homebrewer because of all this. But that still doesn't stop some commercial breweries from dryhopping in one stage for 7-14 days. And they don't encounter vegetalness! Like I said, you and I can brew a beer just like Union Jack without following FW's large scale methods to the T.

Easy answer: Dryhop the way you want to BUT just know that either way (if your method is sound) you won't encounter any vegetalness. The spread of misinformation has hopefully ended.
 
Wow this thread is a pos, lets actually start working on a recipe and stop crying about how the "pros" dry hop.
 
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