New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[mjjunior10]

I pitched at 32 *celsius and forgot it., warm climate im my local, room temperature around 28* celsius. After 24 hours I dryhopped and place bucket into refrigerator and set temp to 18°c.
At day 3, I kegged, then the hops and cold crashed. Day 4 burst carb around 40 psi.

... I also soft crash to 10°c before kegging to help particules down to bottom fermenter.

All in all, at day five I started get some pints, already good beer but a little green yet. It is getting better now.

 

[Dgallo]

Just had my two biggest fermenting fears come to life on this beer. My temp control failed and co2 line on my fermenter clogged up and cracked the lid. Temp got up to 80 on 1318. My guess is it was only there for an hour or two but who know. Def under 4 though. I’m hoping that since it was technically fermenting under pressure at that temp that the yeast did not produce fusel alcohol (nothing detectable now but it’s in active fermentation.

Has anyone had 1318 get this high and the beer lived to tell the tale?

 

[SRJHops]

Just had my two biggest fermenting fears come to life on this beer. My temp control failed and co2 line on my fermenter clogged up and cracked the lid. Temp got up to 80 on 1318. My guess is it was only there for an hour or two but who know. Def under 4 though. I’m hoping that since it was technically fermenting under pressure at that temp that the yeast did not produce fusel alcohol (nothing detectable now but it’s in active fermentation.

Has anyone had 1318 get this high and the beer lived to tell the tale?

I got to 77 using 1318 a few beers back. It was overnight so about 8 hours, though not sure how long at 77 or if it went even higher. But no fusels that I could detect and the beer turned out quite good. Guessing you will be OK! Hops can hide fusels a bit, right?

 

[ihavenonickname]

I got back on track with some better methods (active yeast, ferm in keg, crashed and transfer on co2) and a sure thing recipe. Turned out incredible, I’m going to keep this beer around year round


4.7g into fermenter.

1.054 -> 1.011


9lb 2 row

1 lb flaked rye

.5 lb malted wheat


0.5 oz centennial at 30

4oz mosaic WP at 180 for 30


London fog, 2L Starter Pitched at 72

Ferm at 68 for 10 days. Ramp to 72.


Cold crash to 40F, transfer to hopping keg 4oz Citra, 1oz galaxy (17.5%!) and 0.4g K meta. Dry hopped at 60F for 48 hours, transfer to serving keg.


This is 4 weeks in, bright punchy hops, great aroma but even punchier flavor. I like these moderate abv versions finishing low like this, keeps it refreshing.


https://imgur.com/gallery/0xbyDLd

 

[89Hen]

I still consider myself a novice, when I read most of these posts I know that is an accurate assessment. I did try the version of this recipe from January 2019...

37.5% Rahr 2 Row (5 lbs)
37.5% Golden Promise (or similar like Pearl, Maris Otter) (5 lbs)
7.5% Flaked Oats (1 lb)
7.5% Flaked Barley 1 lb)
7.5 % Weyerman Wheat (1 lb)
2.5% Honey Malt (1/4 lb)

but my local store did not have the Weyermann Wheat so I just decided to for some stupid reason to sub Weyermann Caramel Wheat instead of just using another pale wheat. I figured one pound couldn't impart that much on the color and flavor. Ha! Still was very good, but I really want to try this again and get it bright golden.

This was coming out of the fermenter...

 

[cheesebach]

I got back on track with some better methods (active yeast, ferm in keg, crashed and transfer on co2) and a sure thing recipe. Turned out incredible, I’m going to keep this beer around year round


4.7g into fermenter.

1.054 -> 1.011


9lb 2 row

1 lb flaked rye

.5 lb malted wheat


0.5 oz centennial at 30

4oz mosaic WP at 180 for 30


London fog, 2L Starter Pitched at 72

Ferm at 68 for 10 days. Ramp to 72.


Cold crash to 40F, transfer to hopping keg 4oz Citra, 1oz galaxy (17.5%!) and 0.4g K meta. Dry hopped at 60F for 48 hours, transfer to serving keg.


This is 4 weeks in, bright punchy hops, great aroma but even punchier flavor. I like these moderate abv versions finishing low like this, keeps it refreshing.

https://imgur.com/gallery/0xbyDLd

Thanks for sharing! So it sounds like you spunded in the primary fermenter, is that right? Did you let it fully carbonate all the way to 20-25 PSI in the primary? Did you have the spunding valve on during all of fermentation or only at the tail end?

Is the K-meta added for protection from O2 during the transfer(s)? Sorry for all the questions, but I've struggled for awhile trying to find a spunding process that gives me consistent results with this style.

 

[ihavenonickname]

So I didn’t bother spunding at all actually, but this process of dry hopping after ferm is complete should make that pretty simple if you wanted to. Ya I tried the kmeta for o2 scrubbing, seems promising with little downside but I have nothing to compare it to.

 

[Frieds]

Found this on another thread and thought I’d post it here. Trillium posted the recipe to one of the beers they released recently.

https://www.trilliumbrewing.com/trillium-news/how-to-pale-ale

Interesting to see how little hops they’ve used in the kettle. I’ve been toying with the idea of reducing my kettle additions lately but have been afraid that I’ll lose too much flavour.

 

[MrPowers]

Found this on another thread and thought I’d post it here. Trillium posted the recipe to one of the beers they released recently.
https://www.trilliumbrewing.com/trillium-news/how-to-pale-ale
https://www.trilliumbrewing.com/trillium-news/how-to-pale-ale

Interesting to see how little hops they’ve used in the kettle. I’ve been toying with the idea of reducing my kettle additions lately but have been afraid that I’ll lose too much flavour.

I picked up a four pack of that along with a couple of their other offerings while I was on vacation in Boston this week. The hop level (saturation/intensity) is not even close to their other offerings (DDH Melcher and DDH Pittsburg). You definitely need more in the WP to keep it in IPA territory.

 

[SRJHops]

Found this on another thread and thought I’d post it here. Trillium posted the recipe to one of the beers they released recently.
https://www.trilliumbrewing.com/trillium-news/how-to-pale-ale
https://www.trilliumbrewing.com/trillium-news/how-to-pale-ale

Interesting to see how little hops they’ve used in the kettle. I’ve been toying with the idea of reducing my kettle additions lately but have been afraid that I’ll lose too much flavour.

Agreed. I also think it's best to take information from breweries -- especially the great ones -- with a grain of salt. Unless you have their fancy equipment, their procedures may not always transfer to the homebrewing scale. (Ever wish you had a centrifuge? I do.)

Better to see what is working for the homebrewers on this thread!

One of the things that I'm most curious about is the fact that fermentation strips hop oils (and flavor), yet a NEIPA without any whirlpool hops will lack flavor. Janish did an all dry hop beer and it lacked flavor, of course: http://scottjanish.com/zero-hot-side-hopped-neipa-hplc-testing-sensory-bitterness/

It seems to me that if we know fermentation will strip hop oils, then maybe we should be adding MORE hops to the whirlpool, so more remain! (Of course, there will be a point of diminishing returns -- but what is that point?) And of course also adding dry hops after fermentation, in addition to (or instead of) during fermentation.

 

[jjw5015]

2019 Citra is available now on yakima valley's website

 

[SRJHops]

I still consider myself a novice, when I read most of these posts I know that is an accurate assessment. I did try the version of this recipe from January 2019...

37.5% Rahr 2 Row (5 lbs)
37.5% Golden Promise (or similar like Pearl, Maris Otter) (5 lbs)
7.5% Flaked Oats (1 lb)
7.5% Flaked Barley 1 lb)
7.5 % Weyerman Wheat (1 lb)
2.5% Honey Malt (1/4 lb)

but my local store did not have the Weyermann Wheat so I just decided to for some stupid reason to sub Weyermann Caramel Wheat instead of just using another pale wheat. I figured one pound couldn't impart that much on the color and flavor. Ha! Still was very good, but I really want to try this again and get it bright golden.

This was coming out of the fermenter...

View attachment 650341

Yeah, a better call might have been to up the oats (actually, switch to malted oats) and/or add another pound of 2-row... I bet it lightens up a bit after carbonation, though, and of course the main thing is the flavor!

 

[cpham574]

I’m about to try fermenting in the keg for the first time. Can someone please critique my plan to keg hop? After keg hop for 2-3 days it will go into the kegerator and be served in the same keg.

1. Connect keg 1 (primary) IN post to keg 2 OUT post
2. Naturally purge keg 2 from primary fermentation via spunding valve set to 2-3psi
3. Prior to racking from keg 1 to keg 2, connect co2 tank to IN post of keg 2 but do not open regulator yet.
4. Release pressure from keg 2, open lid, turn on co2 regulator set to 2-3psi, drop in hops (which have been stored in a vacuum sealed mason jar)
5. Close lid on keg 2, purge 1-2 times with co2
6. Attach hose from keg 2 IN post with other end of hose submerged in Star san
7. Connect keg 1 to keg 2 and begin pressurized transfer

I’ve tried to do closed and pressurized transfers from my Anvil, but the flow always stops midway and I have to open the lid and finish racking that way. I’m hoping I can nail it with fermenting in the keg

 

[jjw5015]

I’m about to try fermenting in the keg for the first time. Can someone please critique my plan to keg hop? After keg hop for 2-3 days it will go into the kegerator and be served in the same keg.

1. Connect keg 1 (primary) IN post to keg 2 OUT post
2. Naturally purge keg 2 from primary fermentation via spunding valve set to 2-3psi
3. Prior to racking from keg 1 to keg 2, connect co2 tank to IN post of keg 2 but do not open regulator yet.
4. Release pressure from keg 2, open lid, turn on co2 regulator set to 2-3psi, drop in hops (which have been stored in a vacuum sealed mason jar)
5. Close lid on keg 2, purge 1-2 times with co2
6. Attach hose from keg 2 IN post with other end of hose submerged in Star san
7. Connect keg 1 to keg 2 and begin pressurized transfer

I’ve tried to do closed and pressurized transfers from my Anvil, but the flow always stops midway and I have to open the lid and finish racking that way. I’m hoping I can nail it with fermenting in the keg

If you have 3 kegs, fill up #2 with sanitizer and push it out into keg 3. Then you end up with a fully purged keg with natural C02, and keg 3 is already full of sanitizer for the next batch.

 

[chuckeg15]

Looking for some suggestions.

Here's the list of hops that I currently have:
Cashmere
Citra
Columbus
Dr. Rudi
Galaxy
Idaho 7
Mosaic
Mighty Axe Julius - (Cascade hops grown in Minnesota - ripe, sweet orange, mandarin and peach flavors)
Rakau
Riwaka

What combos would you suggest? I've done plenty of the Citra, Galaxy, Mosaic combination, so I'm looking for something different.

Also, which of these hops do you prefer in the whirlpool and which do you prefer as a dry hop?

I appreciate any input.

 

[couchsending]

Almost any combo of any of those hops would probably be good. Dr Rudi might be the outlier.

Look for some of the best breweries producing lots of modern IPAs and see what combos they use to get some new ideas.

Trillium, Bissell, The Veil, Other Half, Hop Butcher, Cellermaker, Holy Mtn, Alvarado St, Burgeon, Bearded Iris, Creature Comforts, Pinthouse Pizza, etc etc. etc.

Citra @ 5 min
Idaho 7 WP
Rakau, touch of Mosaic DH

Anyone else use that Mighty Axe Julius? That hop sounds like straight marketing to me.

Citra/Cashmere is interesting

Replacing Citra with Riwaka innany recipe is something Shaun Hill is doing at Hill Farmstead now....

 

[beervoid]

Looking for some suggestions.

Here's the list of hops that I currently have:
Cashmere
Citra
Columbus
Dr. Rudi
Galaxy
Idaho 7
Mosaic
Mighty Axe Julius - (Cascade hops grown in Minnesota - ripe, sweet orange, mandarin and peach flavors)
Rakau
Riwaka

What combos would you suggest? I've done plenty of the Citra, Galaxy, Mosaic combination, so I'm looking for something different.

Also, which of these hops do you prefer in the whirlpool and which do you prefer as a dry hop?

I appreciate any input.

I would take only one of the unknowns and pair it with another you really know well.

 

[ihavenonickname]

Your process sounds great. As mentioned, it’s always best to push out water or sanitizer to be sure you have 100% co2, not just diluting out the o2 that is already there.

you are adding the hops before transferring the beer, that’s fine. Some would argue you should transfer the beer first then open the lid to add the hops. I dont think anyone knows which is better for reducing o2 exposure, but the other way will probably save you some co2, less volume to purge.
I typically purge the headspace 5 times to be safe.

I think you’ll find this interesting
View attachment 650591

comes from here


another tip for using the kegs, you’ll definitely need a filter for the hopping keg and most people recommend a filter on the first fermentation keg so you don’t have a clog in your closed system on transfer, can be hard to trouble shoot.

I’m about to try fermenting in the keg for the first time. Can someone please critique my plan to keg hop? After keg hop for 2-3 days it will go into the kegerator and be served in the same keg.

1. Connect keg 1 (primary) IN post to keg 2 OUT post
2. Naturally purge keg 2 from primary fermentation via spunding valve set to 2-3psi
3. Prior to racking from keg 1 to keg 2, connect co2 tank to IN post of keg 2 but do not open regulator yet.
4. Release pressure from keg 2, open lid, turn on co2 regulator set to 2-3psi, drop in hops (which have been stored in a vacuum sealed mason jar)
5. Close lid on keg 2, purge 1-2 times with co2
6. Attach hose from keg 2 IN post with other end of hose submerged in Star san
7. Connect keg 1 to keg 2 and begin pressurized transfer

I’ve tried to do closed and pressurized transfers from my Anvil, but the flow always stops midway and I have to open the lid and finish racking that way. I’m hoping I can nail it with fermenting in the keg

 

[beervoid]

Your process sounds great. As mentioned, it’s always best to push out water or sanitizer to be sure you have 100% co2, not just diluting out the o2 that is already there.

you are adding the hops before transferring the beer, that’s fine. Some would argue you should transfer the beer first then open the lid to add the hops. I dont think anyone knows which is better for reducing o2 exposure, but the other way will probably save you some co2, less volume to purge.
I typically purge the headspace 5 times to be safe.

I think you’ll find this interesting
View attachment 650591

comes from here


another tip for using the kegs, you’ll definitely need a filter for the hopping keg and most people recommend a filter on the first fermentation keg so you don’t have a clog in your closed system on transfer, can be hard to trouble shoot.

I have had a beer that was dry hopped plug during transfer. The floating diptube line was folded double so it did not let any beer through at all.
I had to open it and replace the whole line which was not an easy task as its a royal pain in the butt to slip the silicon tubing over the diptube.

It took me a good 5 minutes of fiddling around.
I was sure my beer would be destroyed as it had alot of dry hops in it already and also fermented out and crashed at this point.
I had the co2 running the whole time during this process and purged the headspace.
As I was replacing the silicon tubing my hands splashed into the beer several times.
I proceeded transferring the beer hoping for the best.
Suprisingly the beer ended up great with 0 signs of oxidation. Drank it in a month.
Im quiet surprised I didnt get ANY DO problems!

 

[cpham574]

Your process sounds great. As mentioned, it’s always best to push out water or sanitizer to be sure you have 100% co2, not just diluting out the o2 that is already there.

you are adding the hops before transferring the beer, that’s fine. Some would argue you should transfer the beer first then open the lid to add the hops. I dont think anyone knows which is better for reducing o2 exposure, but the other way will probably save you some co2, less volume to purge.
I typically purge the headspace 5 times to be safe.

I think you’ll find this interesting
View attachment 650591

comes from here


another tip for using the kegs, you’ll definitely need a filter for the hopping keg and most people recommend a filter on the first fermentation keg so you don’t have a clog in your closed system on transfer, can be hard to trouble shoot.

That article looks great! Now I have some reading to do during my lunch break today.

I’m actually planning to use my 2 kegs that have a cut dip tube so I can place a filter over them. “Brite keg” style from Scott Janish. I want to fill the second keg with Star san and push it out with the gas from fermentation, but the only thing I don’t like about this method is the leftover Star san that isn’t pushed out since the dip tube is about 1” shorter. Do you have any suggestions on how to remove that leftover Star san? In the past I’ve had to open the lid and dump it out, but then I have to purge again

 

[leesmith]

I have had a beer that was dry hopped plug during transfer. The floating diptube line was folded double so it did not let any beer through at all.
I had to open it and replace the whole line which was not an easy task as its a royal pain in the butt to slip the silicon tubing over the diptube.

It took me a good 5 minutes of fiddling around.
I was sure my beer would be destroyed as it had alot of dry hops in it already and also fermented out and crashed at this point.
I had the co2 running the whole time during this process and purged the headspace.
As I was replacing the silicon tubing my hands splashed into the beer several times.
I proceeded transferring the beer hoping for the best.
Suprisingly the beer ended up great with 0 signs of oxidation. Drank it in a month.
Im quiet surprised I didnt get ANY DO problems!

These type of issues are why using a bag really should be a consideration.

Yes...I know. Utilization....all that.

It’s possible to get the same (if not better or sometimes not) flavor and aroma as commercial IPAs.

So the results CAN be the same. And the hassles of clogged transfers are eliminated with beers dry hopped in a keg.

A keg lid with a tab welded underneath can be bought for $16-18. Then a $3 bag and some butchers twine.

And I have found that crushing the dry hop helps two fold when bagging.

 

[Brooothru]

Look for some of the best breweries producing lots of modern IPAs and see what combos they use to get some new ideas.

Slight thread hijack:

Is it just me, or have any of y'all started noticing that craft breweries aren't as "transparent" with their ingredients lately? Now I don't expect them to post cloning recipes on their websites, but I'm finding it more and more difficult to see just what hops are in the beer I'm drinking, and to a lesser extent the grains they're using as well.

If I really like a beer's taste I'd like to at least have some direction so I can design my own recipe, or maybe use a similar hop or combo of hops in my brews. Maybe they (craft brewers) adjust their recipes according to what they have available, rather than stick to a strict formula. Either that or they want us to marvel at their super-secret proprietary concoction and ponder..."if only I could make this..."

Brooo Brother

 

[stickyfinger]

That article looks great! Now I have some reading to do during my lunch break today.

I’m actually planning to use my 2 kegs that have a cut dip tube so I can place a filter over them. “Brite keg” style from Scott Janish. I want to fill the second keg with Star san and push it out with the gas from fermentation, but the only thing I don’t like about this method is the leftover Star san that isn’t pushed out since the dip tube is about 1” shorter. Do you have any suggestions on how to remove that leftover Star san? In the past I’ve had to open the lid and dump it out, but then I have to purge again

If you can stomach adding some CO2 from your cylinder, all you have to do is push in a few psi - maybe 5 psi - to the purged keg and then tip it upside down. i don't see this as an issue as far as oxidation is concerned, but some people may. push the poppet on the gas post in and the sanitizer will all come out. For this to be true you just have to trim your gas-in dip tube so that it is flush with or above the level of the keg wall inside. i trimmed several of mine with a hack saw and then filed them down to remove sharp edges. works fine. That way the sanitizer all just drains down into the hole and out the gas post. The pressure in the keg allows you to blast it out and maintain positive pressure in the keg.

 

[Dgallo]

Slight thread hijack:

Is it just me, or have any of y'all started noticing that craft breweries aren't as "transparent" with their ingredients lately? Now I don't expect them to post cloning recipes on their websites, but I'm finding it more and more difficult to see just what hops are in the beer I'm drinking, and to a lesser extent the grains they're using as well.

If I really like a beer's taste I'd like to at least have some direction so I can design my own recipe, or maybe use a similar hop or combo of hops in my brews. Maybe they (craft brewers) adjust their recipes according to what they have available, rather than stick to a strict formula. Either that or they want us to marvel at their super-secret proprietary concoction and ponder..."if only I could make this..."

Brooo Brother

I actually think it’s of the contrary. More breweries are listing hops and other ingredients for marketing purposes. Craft beer has been taking off in the last decade and consumers are becoming more knowledgeable of the process and ingredients. Most IPAs I buy either list the hops on the can or if not can be found on their website

 

[cpham574]

If you can stomach adding some CO2 from your cylinder, all you have to do is push in a few psi - maybe 5 psi - to the purged keg and then tip it upside down. i don't see this as an issue as far as oxidation is concerned, but some people may. push the poppet on the gas post in and the sanitizer will all come out. For this to be true you just have to trim your gas-in dip tube so that it is flush with or above the level of the keg wall inside. i trimmed several of mine with a hack saw and then filed them down to remove sharp edges. works fine. That way the sanitizer all just drains down into the hole and out the gas post. The pressure in the keg allows you to blast it out and maintain positive pressure in the keg.

omg I can’t believe I never thought about cutting the gas in dip tube. Genius! Thank you!!

 

[cpham574]

I actually think it’s of the contrary. More breweries are listing hops and other ingredients marketing. Craft beer has been taking off in the last decade and consumers are becoming more knowledgeable of the process and ingredients. Most IPAs I buy either list the hops on the can or if not can be found on their website

Agreed. Sapwood cellars is pretty good about listing ingredients too. My friends went to a release awhile ago and they even had handouts of the recipe to give to everyone

 

[SRJHops]

Looking for some suggestions.

Here's the list of hops that I currently have:
Cashmere
Citra
Columbus
Dr. Rudi
Galaxy
Idaho 7
Mosaic
Mighty Axe Julius - (Cascade hops grown in Minnesota - ripe, sweet orange, mandarin and peach flavors)
Rakau
Riwaka

What combos would you suggest? I've done plenty of the Citra, Galaxy, Mosaic combination, so I'm looking for something different.

Also, which of these hops do you prefer in the whirlpool and which do you prefer as a dry hop?

I appreciate any input.

Been thinking about this post and a previous post by ttuato, who recommended pairing 2 dank hops with 1 fruity hop. This makes a lot of sense to me, and my latest was hopped with Citra, Idaho 7, Simcoe, and Columbus. If I7 is dank, then I suppose I went 3 dank to 1 fruity. It's still conditioning, so hard to tell so far, but I have high hopes for it. I like a dank note in my favorite NEIPA-type beers.

So, from your list, maybe Citra, I7, Columbus? Or Citra, Galaxy (light), Columbus, Mosaic (heavier)?

I would love to find a list of NEIPA hops and which ones are best for the WP vs DH. The only one that I am pretty confident about is Citra, which works in both, but not in excessive amounts in the DH. I am just not sure about the others, though I am a bit frightened by the potency of Galaxy in the DH.

 

[stickyfinger]

omg I can’t believe I never thought about cutting the gas in dip tube. Genius! Thank you!!

Thank the LODO guys and gals. They came up with it I believe. I read about it in a thread about LODO. I think Schematix talked about it.

I think you might be able to just buy shorter dip tubes as well if you want to. Some of my new kegs have very short gas dip tubes from the factory.

 

[Andre3000]

Anyone else use a gas displacement method?

I hook my co2 up, hook a party tap up, purge out all remaining Starsan, into a bucket, and just hold the party open for 30-40s with the CO2 constantly flowing. Is this more or less efficient than the purge 16 times at 30 psi business? It just seems better. But I should hook a balloon up to see how much volumetric flow rate actually occurs. Then I could be sure.

 

[leesmith]

Here’s all the maths on it:

http://www.********************/bre...rging-transferring-stabilizing-finished-beer/

I use a dremel cut off wheel to trim my dip tubes so they don’t protrude into the keg. Basically take off a half inch or so.

*Edit:
I do both the sanitizer method and the fermentation method and I’m happy with the results.

 

[Andre3000]

Love the article but it doesn't touch on the method I'm talking about. Mine is the starsan purge method minus the starsan. Haha.

 

[beervoid]

These type of issues are why using a bag really should be a consideration.

Yes...I know. Utilization....all that.

It’s possible to get the same (if not better or sometimes not) flavor and aroma as commercial IPAs.

So the results CAN be the same. And the hassles of clogged transfers are eliminated with beers dry hopped in a keg.

A keg lid with a tab welded underneath can be bought for $16-18. Then a $3 bag and some butchers twine.

And I have found that crushing the dry hop helps two fold when bagging.

I never have problems with the float tube and managed to figure out why it was plugged. I was pulling the line too hard when removing it for cleaning so it stretched out and became thin and was easy to double fold.

 

[Dgallo]

A little switch up for me but I just kegged my latest Milkshake style Sour Double IPA with lactose, fermented on passion fruit pulp and vanilla beans, and dryhopped with Galaxy. I co pitched with Hornindal and some probiotics. Nice sourness and just a tad of funk

 

[Hannabrew]

Love the article but it doesn't touch on the method I'm talking about. Mine is the starsan purge method minus the starsan. Haha.

You want too displace some liquid otherwise purging is very inefficient

 

[ihavenonickname]

A little switch up for me but I just kegged my latest Milkshake style Sour Double IPA with lactose, fermented on passion fruit pulp and vanilla beans, and dryhopped with Galaxy. I co pitched with Hornindal and some probiotics. Nice sourness and just a tad of funk View attachment 650806

I’d love to see a detailed write up on that! This thread or your own

 

[Andre3000]

You want too displace some liquid otherwise purging is very inefficient

How is it inefficient? I'm not saying I don't believe it, just curious. It seems like it would be a time / flow rate based scenario with constant mixing and dilution. Kinda like the purge and release method but continuous. Has anyone quantified it?

Edit: If you think about it, the method I'm describing is identical to the purge and release method in terms of volume of gas required, just less hassle because it's continuous. However, after calculating the actual amount of volume required which is over 100 gal of CO2 at atmospheric pressure, I'd hazard a guess that I am nowhere near 0 ppm O2 as I only do it for the 30-40 seconds mentioned above. There's no way it's at that high of a flow rate.

 

[Dgallo]

How is it inefficient? I'm not saying I don't believe it, just curious. It seems like it would be a time / flow rate based scenario with constant mixing and dilution. Kinda like the purge and release method but continuous. Has anyone quantified it?

I don’t put any sanitizer in my keg. I sanitize it then when empty I hook it to my active fermentation. I read an article that I believe @leesmith posted a while back that a fermentation produces enough co2 completely purge 3+ kegs. The number may have been as high as 7 I think

 

[Andre3000]

I don’t put any sanitizer in my keg. I sanitize it then when empty I hook it to my active fermentation. I read an article that I believe @leesmith posted a while back that a fermentation produces enough co2 completely purge 3+ kegs. The number may have been as high as 7 I think

I do this exact same thing and I think it's sound. Especially with the relatively slow flow rate of CO2 gas produced by fermentation, I think the O2 is more likely to be displaced without mixing making it even more effective.

 

[tellyho]

Have a version of this fermenting now - same grain bill, kveik (at 95 degrees!), mandarina bavarina, sorachi ace, lemondrop. Because that's what I had.

 

[crusader1612]

Anyone got tip on the best way to handle the lallemand dry yeast for this style?
I’ve heard banana esters can be an issue.