New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[GnenieGone]

I missed a lot of chatter on this thread the last several days just wanted to add my 2 cents for what I did read...

I started dividing my whirlpool hops into 2. 1st goes in at 175, 2nd at 147. Lupulin oils are volatile above 147. At the end of cooling, i have a real nice oil sheen on the wort. These were my most flavorful beers.

Im now working on equipment modifications to limit oxygen into my transfers. Doing a simple ipa to test, but recipe here are next.

 

[anteater8]

You could probably even blend in the glass out of the kegerator too, would be cool to test different ratios.

This is exactly what I was thinking. I'll have both on tap at the same time (assuming the first lasts more than 1 week). Galaxy/Azacca sounds like a good combo to me.

 

[olotti]

I missed a lot of chatter on this thread the last several days just wanted to add my 2 cents for what I did read...

I started dividing my whirlpool hops into 2. 1st goes in at 175, 2nd at 147. Lupulin oils are volatile above 147. At the end of cooling, i have a real nice oil sheen on the wort. These were my most flavorful beers.

Im now working on equipment modifications to limit oxygen into my transfers. Doing a simple ipa to test, but recipe here are next.

Hmm this is interesting. I always thought I'd read hop oils weren't isomerized above 175 maybe that's why my beers like this always have just a touch of bite to them. I usually chill to 175 then add my hopstand for 45-60 min which by then it's cooled to about 150-155 then I pull the hop spider and chill. Next time I'll try adding them maybe at 155 and letting it steep from there.

 

[Tarpon87]

Just got stuff in for the next batch, using 81% red x malt as base, a touch of honey malt and even parts flaked oats and wheat for the rest. Belma, El Dorado and huell melon hops for aroma and flavor. Brewing in 2 weeks.

 

[GnenieGone]

.

 

[GnenieGone]

Try agian.,

Myrcene*– (147 F/63.9 C boil point) – The largest of the hop oils, making up 40-60% of the hop oil content in many American varieties (Cascade has 50-60%), though most noble hops are low in myrcene (Saaz: 5-13%). Mercene boils off readily, and can even volatilize in a high temperature steep (147F), so you will lose it if you boil it. It has a herbal note that can be described as green, balsamic, hoppy in small quantities. It also has a slight piney/citrus flavor. As a result of its low boiling point, it is present in much higher quantities in dry hopped or steep-hopped beers. It tends to provide a “green hop” or fresh hop aroma when used in dry hopping.

 

[Nomofett]

Hmm this is interesting. I always thought I'd read hop oils weren't isomerized above 175 maybe that's why my beers like this always have just a touch of bite to them. I usually chill to 175 then add my hopstand for 45-60 min which by then it's cooled to about 150-155 then I pull the hop spider and chill. Next time I'll try adding them maybe at 155 and letting it steep from there.

I think that's still correct, I think they are isomerized at that temp., so that’s when the bitterness is activated for lack of a better term (Mainly, I’ve read some studies recently about bitterness still coming from dry hopping because of.. well, other stuff, I don’t know science and I forget terms easily) I think that the bitterness comes from acids, and the flavor comes from oils. But I think the temp that the other post mentioned was that the oils become volatile and go away.
The boiling point is basically when the oils turn to steam and float away (again, I don’t know science so I am probably saying all of this wrong) So up to the boiling point you will get flavor from the hops, between the boiling point and the isomerization temp. you are losing oils but not adding bitterness (or adding it in very small amounts, but they always add very small amounts) and above isomerization you are adding pretty much only bitterness.
Like I said though, I know nothing of science so I could be totally off, and if I am, I’m sure someone will correct me and I can learn something new!

 

[bigmunchez]

That could be really good. Curious to hear how that turns out - I might give that a try soon

So, I brewed my first attempt at this style. Just kegged and carbonated and I have to say, I'm impressed.
Living in Perth, we don't get to try many examples of this style, certainly not fresh ones, but I tried a lot of the San Francisco examples when I was there a couple of weeks ago.
A few variations (we can't get honey malt), I used a 1:1:1 blend of citra mosaic and galaxy.

I actually used the WY2565 kolsch strain and I'm really happy with how its come out. Super saturated hop flavour, looks really good.

 

[Braufessor]

So, I brewed my first attempt at this style. Just kegged and carbonated and I have to say, I'm impressed.
Living in Perth, we don't get to try many examples of this style, certainly not fresh ones, but I tried a lot of the San Francisco examples when I was there a couple of weeks ago.
A few variations (we can't get honey malt), I used a 1:1:1 blend of citra mosaic and galaxy.

I actually used the WY2565 kolsch strain and I'm really happy with how its come out. Super saturated hop flavour, looks really good.

I could see a Kolsch strain being a great choice for beers like this. Some of them can be very powdery type yeasts that hang around. I actually brewed a kolsch a couple months ago, and for whatever reason, I just cannot get it to drop clear. I used 1007 German Ale yeast on it. Makes me curious now as to how that might work in this beer.
Beer looks awesome

 

[bigmunchez]

I always struggle get my kolsches to drop bright, especially with 2565 which is why I figured I'd try to 'embrace the haze'. Also, I find this strain tends to give a soft mouthfeel in a kolsch while there is still some yeast haze which also complements the style.

 

[marjen]

Going to experiment a little today. Going to try and only use columbus during boil and dry hop, then add my other hops (Mosaic, Citra and El Dorado) in the dry hopping stage. I will add 2 oz at pitch and then another 6 oz on day 2.

Currently I have 5-6 different hop additions. I would love to be able to crank out the same wort than as I start building bigger batches, break them out into different fermenters and be able to add different aroma, flavor hops there. That was my original goal when i started but I got a little sidetracked so since I brewed yesterday with one of my normal recipes going to try this today.

 

[GnenieGone]

Hmm this is interesting. I always thought I'd read hop oils weren't isomerized above 175 maybe that's why my beers like this always have just a touch of bite to them. I usually chill to 175 then add my hopstand for 45-60 min which by then it's cooled to about 150-155 then I pull the hop spider and chill. Next time I'll try adding them maybe at 155 and letting it steep from there.

Started after reading this info..

http://beersmith.com/blog/2013/01/21/late-hop-additions-and-hop-oils-in-beer-brewing/

 

[isomerization]

I'm interested to see if anyone has an opinion on why my latest beer turned out so hazy (and delicious!):

I ordered Northern Brewer's Grapefruit Pulpin' kit (http://www.northernbrewer.com/grapefruit-pulpin-all-grain-kit) during a sale last year (3 kits, $20 each) and kept the grain bill the same, so no adjuncts.

I did increase the amount of hops from 6 oz to 12 oz plus hop extract for bittering, but I've used over 1 lb of hops before and had clear beer. Water profile favored SO4 v. Cl (250:50) and mash pH was 5.35.

I used WY1272 and didn't dry hop until the yeast had flocc'd (6 days post pitch), however, I did add a dried grapefruit peel/vodka tincture to the fermentor at this time. I use stainless, so I don't know if a re-fermentation kicked off or not, but I kegged 3 days later and everything looked fine. The beer did appear hazy as it ran through the tubing though.

Any thoughts as to why I have so much haze? Maybe my beers know how much I like NE IPA and refuse to go back to the west coast style

Wanted to provide an update to this beer (pictured above).

Here is what it looks like as of yesterday, so about 5 weeks in the keg:

Its looked like this for the last 4 weeks or so, the "extra" haze in the first pic dropped out after about 5 days, but it definitely wasn't yeast. Just really interesting (to me at least), that there is so much haze, when I didn't do any of the traditional NE IPA methods.

 

[plazola86]

Its looked like this for the last 4 weeks or so, the "extra" haze in the first pic dropped out after about 5 days, but it definitely wasn't yeast. Just really interesting (to me at least), that there is so much haze, when I didn't do any of the traditional NE IPA methods.

Did you use whirlfloc? I did a west coast style IPA just 2 row a little crystal and cara, fermented with US-05 but no whirlfloc and it ended up just like yours.

 

[marjen]

I gotta say this WY1318 is driving me a bit nuts. I am using 6.5 gallon carboys and this weekend both batches I am fermenting blew the airlocks out in the middle of the 2nd night and made a huge mess. One put a dent in the ceiling that cracked the airlock in 2. For the 2nd one I taped the orange cap to the carboy in case it blew to try and at least keep the cap on. I also removed one of the white caps overnight and it still oozed out all over the place. I am going to try and get a bigger blow off tube but how does that help if the Kruzen is oozing out of the fermenter in such large amounts. There has to be a better way. So now the basement stinks!

 

[Cavpilot2000]

I gotta say this WY1318 is driving me a bit nuts. I am using 6.5 gallon carboys and this weekend both batches I am fermenting blew the airlocks out in the middle of the 2nd night and made a huge mess. One put a dent in the ceiling that cracked the airlock in 2. For the 2nd one I taped the orange cap to the carboy in case it blew to try and at least keep the cap on. I also removed one of the white caps overnight and it still oozed out all over the place. I am going to try and get a bigger blow off tube but how does that help if the Kruzen is oozing out of the fermenter in such large amounts. There has to be a better way. So now the basement stinks!

Put your fermenter in one of those big (Rubbermaid or other brand) storage tubs. Or even insude your brew kettle, it you have a 10 G kettle and a 5G fermenter. They'll catch that overflow.

 

[isomerization]

Did you use whirlfloc? I did a west coast style IPA just 2 row a little crystal and cara, fermented with US-05 but no whirlfloc and it ended up just like yours.

I did not, however, I normally do not and don't recall ever having this much haze with my west coast IPAs. I could be biased now that I have made NE IPAs though?

 

[isomerization]

I gotta say this WY1318 is driving me a bit nuts. I am using 6.5 gallon carboys and this weekend both batches I am fermenting blew the airlocks out in the middle of the 2nd night and made a huge mess. One put a dent in the ceiling that cracked the airlock in 2. For the 2nd one I taped the orange cap to the carboy in case it blew to try and at least keep the cap on. I also removed one of the white caps overnight and it still oozed out all over the place. I am going to try and get a bigger blow off tube but how does that help if the Kruzen is oozing out of the fermenter in such large amounts. There has to be a better way. So now the basement stinks!

Have you used FermCap S before? That always works for me, even with huge imperial stouts. I usually have ~1 gallon of headspace in my SS Brew Bucket for reference.

 

[jjw5015]

I gotta say this WY1318 is driving me a bit nuts. I am using 6.5 gallon carboys and this weekend both batches I am fermenting blew the airlocks out in the middle of the 2nd night and made a huge mess. One put a dent in the ceiling that cracked the airlock in 2. For the 2nd one I taped the orange cap to the carboy in case it blew to try and at least keep the cap on. I also removed one of the white caps overnight and it still oozed out all over the place. I am going to try and get a bigger blow off tube but how does that help if the Kruzen is oozing out of the fermenter in such large amounts. There has to be a better way. So now the basement stinks!

use a bigger fermenter? I got a 7.9 gal bucket that's perfect for the 6 gal batches that go into it

 

[leesmith]

I gotta say this WY1318 is driving me a bit nuts. I am using 6.5 gallon carboys and this weekend both batches I am fermenting blew the airlocks out in the middle of the 2nd night and made a huge mess. One put a dent in the ceiling that cracked the airlock in 2. For the 2nd one I taped the orange cap to the carboy in case it blew to try and at least keep the cap on. I also removed one of the white caps overnight and it still oozed out all over the place. I am going to try and get a bigger blow off tube but how does that help if the Kruzen is oozing out of the fermenter in such large amounts. There has to be a better way. So now the basement stinks!

I've used 1318 for some time now and it can cause quite a blow off. First I used to just put tin-foil over the top of the carboy and clean things up after the high krausen was over with and then put an airlock on. The tin foil never blew off but the krausen oozed through the tin foil and all over the carboy and the fermentation chamber.



Then I switched to using a set up like in the picture below. It's made of 1" tubing and some 1" PVC elbows from the hardware store. The tubing fits tight in the top of the carboy. I'll spray the carboy opening first with Starsan to help lubricate it in order to get it in. The blow off jar 1/2 full of Starsan catches all the junk.



It sounds like your brewing in ambient temp and this yeast will get crazy when left unchecked. I use a ferm chamber and ferment at the low end of the recommended temperature range. I used to ramp the temp on this yeast but found the krausen could be unpredictable and blow off after upping the temp just 1 degree. I leave it at 66f now and the blow off is minimal or at least predictable and tolerable. This yeast does need head room also.

 

[marjen]

Have you used FermCap S before?

I forgot that Fermcap might work. I use it in my boil, gotta remember to try it in the fermenter.

It sounds like your brewing in ambient temp and this yeast will get crazy when left unchecked. I use a ferm chamber and ferment at the low end of the recommended temperature range. I used to ramp the temp on this yeast but found the krausen could be unpredictable and blow off after upping the temp just 1 degree. I leave it at 66f now and the blow off is minimal or at least predictable and tolerable. This yeast does need head room also.

Room temp was only 60-61. The sticker on the side of the carboy said 74 at one point! This is a crazy active yeast. To have a 14 degree difference between room temp is crazy.

use a bigger fermenter? I got a 7.9 gal bucket that's perfect for the 6 gal batches that go into it

I had about 1.5 gallon head space, not even close to enough I guess.

 

[Beerdrinker85]

Okay…… This is just kind of an “update post”. The original recipe is great as is… but, here are some slightly different things I have started to do, minor changes, observations, etc. After a certain amount of time, you cannot edit a post – so I can’t really get in to make changes to the OP. I do think I can get this post linked into the OP though. Some of what follows is basically the same as the OP…. Some is different and updated. I will put the updated parts in bold italics


Using B'run Water

Ca = 100
Mg = 5
Na = 13
Sulfate = 147
Chloride = 80
Bicarbonate = 16[/I][/B]

Mash pH = 5.37-5.42
Final runnings pH = 5.60
Pre-boil Kettle pH = 5.40-5.45
Post Boil pH = 5.3-5.35


[/I][/B]

Brewing this exact same recipe this Sunday with my Grainfather.

I was wondering why I read everywhere that water profile for NEIPA use a high ratio of chloride to sulfate. Is this only for the "low" sulfate ''bitterness'' ?

Gonna brew this with your water profile for sure. I am using it in many of my IPA and DIPA and it's perfect for me.

 

[Braufessor]

Brewing this exact same recipe this Sunday with my Grainfather.

I was wondering why I read everywhere that water profile for NEIPA use a high ratio of chloride to sulfate. Is this only for the "low" sulfate ''bitterness'' ?

Gonna brew this with your water profile for sure. I am using it in many of my IPA and DIPA and it's perfect for me.

I think, in general, people do tend to push the Chloride higher in these. To be honest, I have been brewing with a 125:125 ratio recently.... I honestly do not find there to be a monumental difference with any ratio as long as both numbers are between 75-150. If they are both in there somewhere, and you are hitting your pH..... Should make a good beer. Whether someone has an individual preference there.... they can dial it in from there.

I do think the lower sulfate (150 and below as opposed to the 250-300ppm that is traditional to IPA's) definitely helps the beer in regard to helping it come across less dry and crisp and more full and rounded. Some sulfate is nice though as it does brighten the hops up that you do have.

 

[isomerization]

I forgot that Fermcap might work. I use it in my boil, gotta remember to try it in the fermenter.



Room temp was only 60-61. The sticker on the side of the carboy said 74 at one point! This is a crazy active yeast. To have a 14 degree difference between room temp is crazy.


I had about 1.5 gallon head space, not even close to enough I guess.

That's strange, you should only have to add it to the boil to see benefits in the fermenter too. Are you adding enough? I use 2 drops per gallon, using the volume that goes into the fermenter, so usually 10-11 drops. I've heard it can go "bad" over time, though.

 

[murphyslaw]

Has anyone tried WLP095 Burllington Ale? Does it need to go through a first generation to ferment down to the right FG range, like the GigaYeast Conan?

 

[PissyFingers]

Has anyone tried WLP095 Burllington Ale? Does it need to go through a first generation to ferment down to the right FG range, like the GigaYeast Conan?

Hmm Ive bought 2 vials of WLP095 in the last month and both starters smelt
of rotten eggs, I've made 80-100 starters with ale yeasts and never had this.
I emailed white labs and the only thing they could suggest was to slow down
my stir plate rpm as some yeast get stressed out with excessive speed of the stir bar. Im not sure i want to buy any more of this strain in the future.

The flavour carried across onto the final beer so i dumped it.

 

[leesmith]

Room temp was only 60-61. The sticker on the side of the carboy said 74 at one point! This is a crazy active yeast. To have a 14 degree difference between room temp is crazy.

If you can, try to control the actual wort temp by putting wet towels on the fermentor or putting it in a tub of room temperature water to keep it down. This yeast also does not like head pressure. I once changed from a blow of tube back to an airlock thinking that high krausen was over and came back in the afternoon to a mess.

In my ferm chamber I tape the controller probe right to the fermentor with insulation covering it. The controller then reacts to the temp of the beer, turning the cooling on or off to knock the temp back down. This really keeps 1318 in check.

It's a very active yeast and letting it free rise will get exciting. Lately I've been brewing in a SS Brewtech bucket. The beers I've been brewing are around 1.060 or lower and I have not had much blow off if any at all. The ring on the inside indicates a high krausen but at a steady 66 with this fermentor I haven't seen any blow offs.

I use the set up below just in case. It allows a 1/2 blow off and a way to push the beer after it's done fermenting. I just close the blue handled valve and attach my gas to push the beer through the racking valve into a keg.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1493724012.480133.jpg

 

[marjen]

Are you adding enough? I use 2 drops per gallon, using the volume that goes into the fermenter, so usually 10-11 drops.

Yes I use 2 drops per gallon. Dont have issues during the boil. Did not know it was supposed to help post boil as well.

I use the set up below just in case. It allows a 1/2 blow off and a way to push the beer after it's done fermenting. I just close the blue handled valve and attach my gas to push the beer through the racking valve into a keg.

Would love to know what parts you used to make that! I am hoping to get a conical fermenter in the next few months and would love to rig up something just like that.

 

[Braufessor]

Did two slightly different versions of this over the weekend. Nothing crazy...
In both, I simplified the grain bill a bit -
40%/40% on Golden Promise/2 Row
7.5% each of Flaked Barley and Flaked Oats
5% Wheat

From there -
Batch #1 used Cascade/Centennial/Citra in 1:1:1 Ratio with Columbus to Bitter. Just threw all 6 ounces in once the wort was cooled to 150 or so. Dry hop I am deciding between keeping 1:1:1 or going 2 ounces of citra and 1/2 ounce each of the other two. Two additions. first one at Day 3.
I used 1318 on this one.

Batch #2 I did Simcoe/Amarillo/Centennial - 1:1:1 will go 1:1 with Simcoe/Amarillo in Dry hop. 1272 yeast. Warrior to Bitter.

Went with the 125:125 on Sulfate:Chloride.

 

[nbbyrd]

Hmm Ive bought 2 vials of WLP095 in the last month and both starters smelt

of rotten eggs, I've made 80-100 starters with ale yeasts and never had this.

I emailed white labs and the only thing they could suggest was to slow down

my stir plate rpm as some yeast get stressed out with excessive speed of the stir bar. Im not sure i want to buy any more of this strain in the future.



The flavour carried across onto the final beer so i dumped it.

I've used WLP095 for a few generations now and have really enjoyed it so far. I made a starter for my first NEIPA batch (I don't have a stir plate though, I just shake and swish it around periodically) and it smelled wonderfully of peaches and sweet oranges. It fermented below my target FG to 1.008.

I saved part of that first starter to generate a second started for a NE-style pale ale which I intended to save the whole yeast cake slurry for future batches. This time though the yeast cake had a strong acrid smell that I wasn't too sure about. Rotten eggs comes to mind. The yeast cake looked fine and the beer tasted good and fermented strongly again to below my target FG, so I kept the slurry anyways.

The slurry smelled fine and didn't have the strong odor anymore after being stored in the fridge for a few weeks. I used a mason jar of this slurry to make a strong starter for my next NEIPA that I brewed about 10 days ago. This starter smelled great again like peaches and the batch is doing well. It was at 1.010 on Friday (6 days from brew day), so I added the second round of dry hops yesterday and plan to keg this weekend. Looking forward to this one!

I used 1318 for the first time on another NEIPA a few weeks ago that turned out very good too. It was a new grain bill I've been working on, so I'm hoping to split my next batch of that recipe with 1318 and WLP095 to compare fruitiness/haziness and determine which I prefer.

 

[stickyfinger]

Has anyone tried WLP095 Burllington Ale? Does it need to go through a first generation to ferment down to the right FG range, like the GigaYeast Conan?

That has become one of my favorite yeasts. I always get great results with it. It is top 3 favorite of mine for NE IPA.

 

[murphyslaw]

Hmm Ive bought 2 vials of WLP095 in the last month and both starters smelt
of rotten eggs, I've made 80-100 starters with ale yeasts and never had this.

I've used WLP095 for a few generations now and have really enjoyed it so far. .

Thank you both. I neglected to make a new generation of my last jar of GigaYeast slurry and I was hoping to not have to make something else first just to get a second generation slurry. Plus, my LHBS doesn't carry GigaYeast, so I'd have to mail order.

 

[smalloy88]

I gotta say this WY1318 is driving me a bit nuts. I am using 6.5 gallon carboys and this weekend both batches I am fermenting blew the airlocks out in the middle of the 2nd night and made a huge mess. One put a dent in the ceiling that cracked the airlock in 2. For the 2nd one I taped the orange cap to the carboy in case it blew to try and at least keep the cap on. I also removed one of the white caps overnight and it still oozed out all over the place. I am going to try and get a bigger blow off tube but how does that help if the Kruzen is oozing out of the fermenter in such large amounts. There has to be a better way. So now the basement stinks!

I had two airlocks pop in the past. After that second time, I ferment all of my beers using 1" ID blow off tubes. I have my one or two carboys, depending on batch size, and place the blow off tube in the carboy and the other end in a bucket that's filled about halfway with sanitizer solution. If you're limited for space, use a 1 gallon water jug instead of a bucket. They also fit in there, but make sure you cut a whole in the side of the jug (above liquid level) so the pressure can vent.

https://www.homebrewsupply.com/blow...ad0SdFmJZJXEHOSOxXbWvawCF-T-tapJ_zhoCqsPw_wcB

They fit snug in the carboy and never clog. I've used smaller diameters with carboy caps and airlocks which have clogged in the past. Never any issues with the 1".

 

[Sbe2]

Brewed my first true NEIPA a few weeks back, using Galaxy, Citra, Amarillo with braufessors grain bill.
1:2:2 ratio
3 different charges. One during WP, day 3, and day 10


I did not add a bittering charge, and I really miss it. I will add .25-.5 of ctz for a FWH on my next batch. Other than that, it's one of my best brews I have made.

 

[duelerx]

Has anyone tried brewing using pilsner malt instead of 2-row?, not sure if this could make a difference.

 

[leesmith]

Would love to know what parts you used to make that! I am hoping to get a conical fermenter in the next few months and would love to rig up something just like that.

marjen, here are the stainless parts listed in order of assembly from right to left as seen in the picture below. Of course you'll need to use appropriate lengths of silicone. The 5/8" hose barbs are nice because the silicone fits real snug on it. I used Teflon tape where appropriate. I've added links to each part. Basically got everything from Brew Hardware and then one part from SS Brewtech.

This blow off set up was made to fit the Brew Buckets from SS Brewtech but also works with their conicals if you have the glycol chiller installed because they basically use the same lid as the Brew Buckets for that set up. My friend came up with this and I'm sure there's more than one way to do it but this works great for my purposes.

Right side of "T":

Hose Barb, 1/2" Male NPT x 5/8" Hose ID

Mini-Ball Valve 1/2" Male/Female

NPT Tee Fitting Female 1/2" NPT

In the top of the "T" fitting:
Hex Reducing Bushing 1/4" FNPT X 1/2" MNPT

NPT Male, 1/4" to Keg Post Adapter 19/32" -18 Thread

Gas Side Ball Lock Keg Post (19/32"-18) with Universal Poppet

And in the left of the "T":
Hose Barb, 1/2" Male NPT x 5/8" Hose ID

Hose Barb 1/2" 90° for Blow-Off

And all the tubing is:
UltraClear Silicone Tubing by the foot, 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD (1/8" Thick Walls)

 

[Hannabrew]

I don't keg but seems your process is in line with what other people do here so there's no leak in the line anywhere otherwise yeah maybe that imperial yeast just drops when cooled and like you say when u agitate it then it's good but it drops out again but yeast is not what we're after in a neipa it's the hops and if you hop it heavily I would think that would stay in suspension. Or maybe you didn't use enough oats, barley or wheat or a big enough dry hop to where you could compensate for that hop loss when the keg is chilled. There's an answer in there somewhere now it's figuring out where and it maybe in the grain bill itself maybe.

I'm going to attempt another NEIPA and this time I plan to use 1318 but I'm still a bit stumped on what happened here. The main thing I'd like to understand is would the yeast settling out during a standard keg cold crash (after the 2nd round of dry hopping) take the "haze" and hop aroma/flavor with it?

Trying to figure out if it was something with the process or simply the yeast since I've never used it before.

 

[cheesebach]

I'm going to attempt another NEIPA and this time I plan to use 1318 but I'm still a bit stumped on what happened here. The main thing I'd like to understand is would the yeast settling out during a standard keg cold crash (after the 2nd round of dry hopping) take the "haze" and hop aroma/flavor with it?



Trying to figure out if it was something with the process or simply the yeast since I've never used it before.

There's no reason why cold crashing in dry hop keg should be any different than transferring to serving keg and then moving it to a fridge at serving temp (unless you're taking the beer far below serving temp as part of your cold crash). Skipping the cold crash in the dry hop keg just means that more stuff that is going to settle out anyways makes it into the serving keg. I'd suggest doing whatever is most convenient for you with your setup.

 

[Hannabrew]

There's no reason why cold crashing in dry hop keg should be any different than transferring to serving keg and then moving it to a fridge at serving temp (unless you're taking the beer far below serving temp as part of your cold crash). Skipping the cold crash in the dry hop keg just means that more stuff that is going to settle out anyways makes it into the serving keg. I'd suggest doing whatever is most convenient for you with your setup.

Ultimately what I'm wondering is if the settling of the yeast associated with cold crashing would cause the beer to clear and ultimately take some of the flavor with it?

 

[murphyslaw]

Unless you store and serve your beer warm, you always cold crash. It doesn't matter if you do that in primary, dry hop keg, serving keg, or bottles.